Mopar1973Man

Just pull the two battery leads. Leave the solenoids alone. It will trip error codes for sure. Being your in California you in an emission state so I know and error codes is a bad thing and will fail your smog testing. Just leave the solenoids alone and no codes will be thrown.

Basically most chose a turbo based on the map data provided by the turbo which is the usable range of the turbo. What turbo do you have now and how much boost are your making? What catches my eyes is the TST / Smarty Stack. This might be part of the EGT problem and lack of fuel and timing control. I know the Smarty provides timing but you can't set the timing for your particular needs. Then fuel is by both units but again no control of the fuel for your particular conditions.

Waterford CA. I really doubt he'll see freezing temperatures around San Francisco / Modesto area. Now I know the answer here. There isn't much to gain here for air flow difference for a stock or mild modified truck. The only reason I could give is the AC noise issue for a disconnect.

Odd issue but does happen. Is it possible you have a pin push back and not making a solid connection at the ECM or the ECT plug? Like myself working with the Smarty Touch I couldn't get it to turn on at all. Come to find out after sending it back and have it tested. The Smarty Touch was fine but still didn't work on my truck this now points an issue on my truck. After getting the OBDII plug pulled out I found one of the SCI pin pushed back far enough to no longer make a connection with the OBDII plugs. After going around and double checking all the OBDII pins the problem is solved on my side. It is possible for a pin to pop out of the socket.

From my experience now. The thicker the viscosity the less gear rollover noise it should produce. This does come at a cost of some MPG. Yeah, 50 weight is a bit more like 90 weight. With the old Dealer fluid I use to get a lot of gear rollover noise running upgrades low in the RPM spectrum. No longer an issue with the 50 weight transmission fluid. This is why I welcome some transmission temperature.

Never been a big fan of the scotchlock on the wire make for poor connection typically not only that but can cut most of the solenoid lead in half. Not good for connections. As for the Quadzilla you need to be warmed up above your set warm up temperature (if set). After that, the power control should be red in color and unlocked now you can select a level. Levels 4 and up are all wire tap levels.

There is always been a weird difference between the two NV4500 and the NV5600. I know that are both based on carbon fiber syncros as the limitation. Knowing that much from the study I invested in the NV4500 I know the fluid has to be GL-4 Synthetic (hence the cost). PennzOil doesn't specify viscosity or GL rating. That why I'm scratching my head. Again I know the NV4500 is 75w-80 fluid synthetic GL-4. As for NV5600 I've never really studied it in depth nor no the actually specs exactly. Kind of like PennzOil and Mopar... Again no specifications of viscosity or GL rating... Again Dodge has done some weird crap. Like the newer 3rd gen 6 speed running on ATF+4. Then going backward to the older Getrag 5 speeds running on 5w-30 synthetic ENGINE oil (weird, no GL fluid at all). So I'm not going to call out specifications nor do I know all of then either. Just I know there is a lot of weird specs when it comes to the transmissions. Some of them you can bend and others you can't. Same token take note the two transmissions above have had shorter lifespans because of fluid limitations. So a lot of people gone there own direction and skipped specification which now makes this clear as mud. Being I did the study work on the NV4500 I know why the change in fluids and the design. It was because the Cummins was getting the gear teeth too hot and popping the teeth off the gear hence why the Castrol Syntorque fluid was created. Viscosity is not a factor on the NV4500. The only factor I know for sure is that the fluid must be a GL-4 Synthetic to keep the carbon fibers from breaking down also meet the gear teeth problem. That kind of hangs with me being both NV4500 and NV5600 both have carbon fiber syncro. Right or wrong that just where my mind hangs on is those carbon syncros. Beyond the syncros both transmissions are just steel parts on a shaft with bearings. Hence my thought on it.

I don't know if it meets the requirements.

Check out Weller Truck. That's who rebuilt my NV4500 after a broke the mainshaft. I've got 70k miles on the transmission after 2 years now. Still running strong...

Yes, sir. 70,000 miles and no issues. I check the fluid level at 60k miles and the color was still clean like out of the bucket. I'll be doing a fluid change at 100k miles. I kind of feel it will be early... No it's not. If you look at the factory lube at $27 a quart from a Dodge Dealer... That's $108 for a gallon. I bought a 5 gallon bucket for bit over $200.00. Napaonline is $245 a 5 gallon bucket. $49 a gallon. $12.25 a quart. It's nearly half the price of the factory fluid.

Verified with a digital thermometer and it right on. Mine rarely comes up above the 130*F mark empty running. Now towing it common to see the 170-190*F realm. The only time I could push that is now shift in 3rd gear crawl a 7% grade in 110*F weather. Now that was the only time I've seen my warning light trip at 225*F. All winter It never moves from the 100*F mark. Most of the summer I'll be below 160*F empty truck. Also interested as well.

Typically most of us just pull the battery leads and tuck them away.

Wow...

After 120 miles of 65 MPH... It tough to get mine even warm on 60 to 70 degree day. No heat shield. No transmission coolers. Just a stock NV4500.

Ok... It sure isn't "Global Warming" it still cold here this morning. It's spring but I'm still seeing 29-32*F mornings.

In my history of work I would say o-rings and compressor front seals.

What little I know of the power puck it just a CANBus tuner without setting. No control of fuel or timing for the end user. Not all that good really.

Between the pintle needle and the nozzle. VCO is what your stock injectors. I'm also running VCO 7 x 0.0085 DAP injectors. Stock HX35W is 54/60/12, Hybrid 35/40 is going to be only 60/60/12. Since you don't have an exhaust brake you can go anywhere. I've got to stay with the hybrid just so I'm not buying another $1,200 exhaust brake.

Typically it because the coolant sensor lead is unplugged. Double check the coolant sensor right near the thermostat housing for good connection. Use a live data tool and see what the value the ECM is seeing. Remember sensor ground is not body ground. Basically, the ECM creates 5V signal and sense the voltage on the same connection. So the ground side of the sensor is the negative side of that 5V circuit. This why I say that sensor ground is not body ground. This is also why sensor are 2 or 3 wire and provide the separate ground because it's not part of the 12V system at all. If you look back in time to the older vehicles the older dodge vehicles had 1 wire temperature sensors because the ground of the sensor was part of the 12V system. Even though the older vehicles still used a modified low voltage signal.

Interesting...

The only reason I did the HX35/40 is because I wanted to keep my exhaust brake. If I didn't have the exhaust brake I would of jumped for a 62/68/12 most likely. Here is the VCO vs SAC...

Actually no. We tried the 6 hay bails. The trailer tongue was too light and dangerous. Pulled the top hay bail off and just strapped 5 down I was good to go. I hauled 3 trips like this and pulled like a dream.

After 15 years of service my doors and now clunking, rattle, wind noise etc. I've been pretty religious about keeping the hinges lubed up and checking for door sag. Actually, my issue was more so in the rear doors which the lower latch was a bit sloppy. I did a bit adjusting to align the striker pin in the middle of the latch gap and make sure the door made a full cycle in on the latch (both latches). Then you have to re-adjust your main door striker pin the same way middle of the latch notch and enough that you get a full cycle of both latches. This really tightens up the doors a bunch and seem to shut solid now and tight. As for door sag, you can check this by having the door open and lifting at the outer bottom corner and seeing if the hinge moves at all. If it does that means you'll need to do a door hinge rebuild. Don' let this go it will ruin your door latch eventually because of misalignment of the striker pin beating the top of the latch. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-24617-703-273.aspx

Basically if you do the Blue Chip hot wire test will omit the entire ECM. The VP44 is powered separately and there is no connection to the ECM. As for the ECM if the APPS sensor is in "Idle Position" on the Idle Validation Switch (IVS) then the APPS sensor voltage is ignored and the ECM idle software is used. ECT does control idle speed on a cold startup. So if you going to pull this sensor I would do it after the truck is fully warmed up. I wouldn't want you to think you got a false positive. Colder temperature the higher the idle speed. MAP sensor has no effect on idle controls. Just like Edge Comp with a Smoke Switch it fools the MAP to full boost constantly. IAT only affects the timing of the injection pump. I would only pull this after the truck is fully warmed so not to get a false positive. Hence the MPG fooler switch holding 143*F IAT temp year round. All these sensors will throw a code of some sort being unplugged. You will need to reset all codes afterwards. The VP44 is smarty enough to start and idle by itself without an ECM. The only thing the ECM does at idle time is adjusting the idle speed and pump timing (cold engine and cold IAT).

Simple, he cleaned it and then never drove it. Ask him he doesn't really use his truck much.