Mopar1973Man

Now I know the crap will start to get stupid around here...

I wish I had more information on that stupid module it only ran a few years and that never really made it to the FSM books. Kind of like the fly by wire cruise didn't make the book either. (Lazy Dodge FSM Book writers...)

Our Mail Lady (Betty Holderness) has fallen ill and wound up in the hospital last Saturday. At first we are all kind of stunned at what that she wound up in the hospital. Come to find out she is dying from cancer. She has been providing US mail here in the Salmon River Canyon for over 25 years. Just really sad to find out that she is going to lose her life to cancer. Please say a few prayers for this kind lady and may her soul pass on to heaven peacefully.

Driver seat latch there is two wires just jump them.

Eye Candy does not sell. You'll be surprised some of the websites I find that are "Top Dawg" are just plain white background and black text no pictures. Literally no style or graphics at all strictly a text website. Like myself I want a strong SEO presence and Eye Candy I've got to weigh out on server load. More or less more HP on the SEO and little on Eye Candy...

Those are website builders. I would avoid those. Here is one. https://www.wix.com/ They are not build on SEO desgn. It built more so on Eye Candy. Lots of photos and little text and poor SEO in mind. Remember Photo do not do anything for SEO. Only TEXT will. Like the link you posted... SEO is poor... Eye Candy is good though... Legacy Classic Trucks | Home (1/6) * Build Your Own Chevy NAPCO Chevy NAPCO Chevy NAPCO * Learn More * Build Your Own Restoration Services Restoration Services Restoration Services * Restoration Services * 3 Stage Restoration Inventory * Available * Project Vehicles * Sold The Lifestyle Be a Part of the Lifestyle Shop apparel and other Legacy Classic Trucks items. [IMG] Sale! Legacy Twill Hat - Green More Info [IMG] APOCALAXE- 2# Multipurpose Tool + Sheath More Info [IMG] Sale! Legacy Twill Hat - Orange More Info [IMG] Sale! Legacy Twill Hat - Navy More Info [IMG] Velvicut 2.25# Premium Bad Axe Boys Axe & Sheath More Info [IMG] Sale! Legacy Trucker Hat - Army Green More Info [IMG] Sale! Legacy Trucker Hat - Brown More Info [IMG] Sale! Legacy Organic Cotton T-Shirt More Info ────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────────── * Shop Apparel * Shop Tools Company Loading... http://www.legacyclassictrucks.com/p-35205-build-your-own-jeep-scrambler.html - Build your own Legacy Power Wagon

Boost scaling is the point at which the wiretap hits 100% at this set boost pressure. So if you set for 20 PSI the wiretap is 100% by the time you hit 20 PSI. So yes... raising the boost scaling is going to lessen the ramp up to the max wiretap.

As for SEO tricks. Just because you are small website doesn't mean you can't beat a bigger website. CumminsForum is a much larger website, more traffic that M73M, more content, more members, more of everything. But I flat stomped then for several different queries. I know of several tricks that allows me to take lead on the SEO realm. All the major websites are below me. Currently, I take number one placement on 41 different queries. I'm on the first page for at least 862 different queries. So website size doesn't mean you can't play with the big dogs.

Driver seat belt. That all. There is 2 wires that run up into the seat belt latch to detect when the selt belt has been inserted to the latch. Then the switch turns off the lgiht. Nothing more.

Easy fix either wear your seat belt or jump the little plug on the driver side. Light off. No computer involved unless the you have the version with the center seat module for locking the seat belt in the seat. Even then that module only control the locks of the belts not the light.

I know it will trip codes. As long as it doesn't trip the CEL light. It will work.

No. The automatics rely on pressure. So to prove that point put in any forward gear and you'll see it will just roll off the top of a mountain. As long as the transmission pump isn't pumping that transmission is in neutral. No way to shift gears in to first or any gear. Need pressure.

I would have to say the MAP sensor or wiring is goofy. Mine is off by a little bit 1-2 PSI but not 8 PSI. Mine tend to vary about the 25 PSI mark and starts to separate where the gauge is higher than Quadzilla.

85k miles of SuperTech... Mixed at 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil to fuel. My last pump went 243k miles before the timing piston seized in the full advanced position.

If it was me I would just change out for a Timbo's APPS being it fully a mechanical APPS sensor and no electronics. Then it a matter of angle to trip the IVS switches than voltage. As long as the angle is right then the IVS should be in the idle position. TPS should show 0% at idle. If you've done any voltage adjustment that is what screwed it up. NEVER adjust the voltage of the APPS to match the tag.

Drop the 5% minimum pump tap to 0%. Push the Boost scaling up to 30 to 40 for sure. Minimum TPS should be pushed up to 30% I like 50% minimum being you stay out of the wiretap for daily driving.

My performance tune is stupid. It got some smoke but really easy to get the tires to break loose. Damn boost gauge snaps 45 PSI just as quick as the wiretap hits. That is a 1,600us wiretap pulse. My Economy tune has the wiretap turned down to the minimum it just doesn't get any lower than 1,200us for the wiretap. The economy tune is clean, just light puffs as the turbo spools. Both tunes are running bit more retard on the 1,500 RPM band once I get 2,000 RPM band it steps up and we get motorvating... (Pun intended!) Economy tune is like my sleeper tune nobody expects a stock tire truck with stock wheels, etc to flat haul . That tune is clean so I get Ford and Chevy always wanting to play. Most of them don't like the outcome. Now the Performance tune has smoke so its a dead give away I've got something to give. Either case I can't keep the tires under the truck either tune is capable of smoking the tires on smooth road surface. Like the fresh chip-coat up here at home, it stays hooked up on the pavement. Smooth city streets can get rather dicey sometimes.

What do you have for the wiretap settings? List them out I can help you out. Just running my Economy Tune which has the wiretap at 1,200 and TPS start at 30% and TPS end at 100% This thing is sick when I bounced around a Ford Truck in 4th gear and the tire break loose and had to drop the throttle, upshift and started pull again and cleared the nose of him by 85 MPH. I was moving.

No. No such PID exist. The DRBIII might have that but most don't have access to such a expensive tools.

235/85 R16 vs 265/75 R16 which is 1mm taller and 2 Rev/Mile less. But +3 MPH off at 65 MPH ??? Hua? Manual Transmission no slip...

WTS light is based on two sensors. IAT sensor and Battery Temperature sensor. So if the temperature is below about 60-65*F it will trip a single element grid heater regardless of being hooked up to the battery or not. So the WTS light should reflect the normal grid heater operation but you won't see the heavy voltage drop.

I got the new steering Blue Top Steering Gearbox yesterday. Didn't take me much to get it installed. After getting the system filled with fluid and getting the air out of the system. Tell you the truth there isn't much difference between my old box and the Blue Top right off the bat sitting in the shop. Being my old OEM box was tight yet the Blue Top reacts the same way sitting in the shop. Now I roll out the door and get going to McCall, ID. On the highway there isn't much difference between than my OEM box and Blue Top either being you more or less keep it straight most of the time again my old box was still tight. Where the Blue Top Steering Gearbox really shines in in the city. Now hooking right and left turns this box is quick and feels good and fast. I tend to do back streets in McCall less traffic and stop and go. I was able to wheel around the city with better ease compared to the slow ratio box I had. It's Tuesday so I've got to make a long haul today to Ontario, OR today for MoparMom. So I'll get plenty of seat time playing with that box and be able to report even more when I get home.

I'll have to close this thread. I sent my box back as a core being the input end cap has issues with the threads being the cap was rusted in the threads so I ordered a full box.

I would pull that alternator and have it bench tested I'm pretty sure the diodes are gone.

Pair of long needle nose pliers might work better. I've been known to get some out with my angled tipped needle nose pliers too.