Mopar1973Man

Even the Hotrod VP44 is only 21 HP over a stock SO pump. The only thing that makes a Hotrod pump what it is... When they are built they use a mixture of both HO and SO pumps. Gives it a slightly more advanced timing and more volume of fuel. Gain between HO and SO in stock form is only 10 HP. Not like we are talking about a whole bunch...

The best I can suggest is the ECM rebuilder article we've got here.

Hmmm... I had a long discussion with a friend about the 4th gen truck and their issues. Like I told him if people of our caliber were to dive in and figure the engine out we might be able to keep from deleting them completely. Kind of like the early years of catalytic converters on the 1980's cars that people chopped off. Now they are just part of the car. So eventually I'm hoping the same knowledge comes to the diesel realm for the 4th gens.

Flat bed trailer would be much easier to deal with than another truck. I'd say look into the gooseneck idea and just haul the hives on the trailer. This way you not into 6 tires for replacement. Now in the 3rd Gen's I would consider an single rear wheel 1 ton with a flatbed. Again that is a heck of a price tag for 3rd gen trucks.

I'm curious why you didn't get a Smarty?

Did someone delete their truck?

Yeah, @Me78569 is right the yellow turbo icon is the turbo timer. If there is a warning of boost then the bar at the bottom turns yellow.

Did you upgrade the main shaft too? IIRC the torque on the 5th gear nut is in the range of 500-600 foot pounds on the upgraded shaft. You might look it up and make sure it torqued properly. Way too many video out there of guys beating the nut back on with a hammer and chisel. For sure not the way to do this job.

Boost leaks as they add up they can wipe out a lot of good boost pressure to leaking boots, intake gasket, etc.

I'm going to run on the hunch that its a vacuum your fighting. So I would say the vent on the top of the sender is plugging up with mud or ice causing the problem. Typically a cracked head would produce a consistent failure in a short time not like your seeing where it comes and goes. Do you happen to have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up?

We've got a heck of a thread going attempting to resolve the whole alternator AC noise issue for good. The best I can tell you that the grid heater are the cause of the diodes failing as for solution for keeping the diodes from getting damaged is still not found yet. We are working for a long-term solution. I'm still of the opinion that the grid heaters as the age and the solenoids that control them tend to create more load than the alternator can handle so the diodes overheat and fail.

As I flip-flop between stock (level 0) and Level 3 of the Quadzilla I see roughly about 2-3 degree advancement over stock fully warmed up. This could be upside down if the fuel temperature and the IAT colder. Then I'm about 2-3 degrees retard from the colder temperatures on the fuel and IAT. Temperature plays a role in tuning yet and have to be aware of your conditions, weather, etc. In the extreme cold I've seen stock as high as 21* just cruising at 55 MPH. But the fuel was barely 45*F and the intake was 48*F. Being my overall engine load at 65 MPH is barely 18-20% it doesn't drop off like @Me78569 mentions. But you have to remember I'm a +75HP injector so it flowing more fuel for the stated engine load. I'm waiting for the summer fuel to kick back in.

@Dynamic This is a good one for you to answer. I've got a funny feeling though something is wrong with the torque converter.

@JAG1 Sometime in April we'll have to get together and handle the A/C... Unless @IBMobile wants to do it while your camping...

That is correct. The ECM is in direct control of the lift pump. If the WTS light is delaying then the ECM is NOT booted up and ready. So the lift pump will not fire. The ECM must boot up first for the lift pump or the VP44 to fire. If the WTS light doesn't come on the ECM will not start either the VP44 or the lift pump. That relay is the power relay to the VP44 again its controlled by the ECM on turning on the power to the VP44. As long as there is NOT a P0381 error code there is nothing wrong with that wire. So since you've never mentioned that error code I would assume the ECM is damaged most likely from excessive AC noise from the alternator.

Really don't like those setups. I installed a FASS 150 for local gent right here in New Meadows, ID on a 2000 Dodge Ram 2500. To this day that truck still has problems with gelling fuel and road debris hitting the FASS filters because its installed just like seen here. So after a few miles of snow cover highways the filter are buried in packed snow and ice.The other problem is that FASS are so big in physical size they are very difficult to hide on the truck away from a damage path or thrown snow and ice. Remember FASS and AirDog is a Son and Father setup. Where the son owns FASS and father owns AirDog. Same family different ideas.

Just remember the higher the volume of pump the better the pressure stability will be. In other words like most people figure to buy the smallest volume pump like 95 GPH pump but those people have more problems with wider swings of fuel pressure from cold fuel to hot fuel then with idle to WOT operation as well. Larger the plumbing and the larger the volume of pump will provide the best stability of pressure over all applications typically. I'm speaking of the Common Joe people not the racing and dyno queens those are way different setup.

Normally, I take a can of brake clean and washout the connector tube holes in the head to ensure there is no debris in the head to mess up the o-ring sealing. Then clean up my connector tubes with a wire brush to remove the crud that might have formed. Just remove the o-ring its easy...

Jacobs Brake is no longer produced.

ECM ground is the passenger side battery terminal. That ground is the lift pump. The relay is for the VP44.

75 to 100 HP injectors are very possible with the Quadzilla no longer limited to the small RV275 injectors. Even bigger injectors can be used.

Here is a true Jake Brake by Thunder Brake.

Right here... https://www.dieselautopower.com/smarty-s-03-rental-sr-s03a For those that want to install the newer software to enable high idle or test/tune with smarty programmer. Unit may be open box. Return is required in 21 days from shipment. $50 fee assessed for shipping, return shipping and handling. Will ship and return ship using USPS or UPS. Labels will be pre-paid. If not received in 21 days or sooner a $50 late fee will be assessed per week. Available to United States only. Call us, 1(801) 927-4600, for international options.

What made it bad is I've already got a bad back. Little cars not a problem I could throw those all day. Fat Ford with 37-inch tires I typically past the job up to the Shop Pup's so I didn't trash my back attempting to lift those heavy bastards. All I had to do is even do a rotation on a truck with 37's and I was hurting for the afternoon. I really do understand the weight differtence. Yes, I do my old 1972 Dodge Power wagon had those too. Back in the days of my first digital camera that was a 0.3 Megapixel. LOL... This is the truck I ruined the front axle on with oversized tires. Done enough damage that I needed to get rid of it. So it was a trade in for my 2002 Dodge I've got now.

Not exactly required for Me78569 being he's here every day typically. The @ tag basically sends an email to that person and notification on the site letting that person know he's been tagged in a post.