Mopar1973Man

@Dynamic Gotta hang around the site springtime is coming I'm sure you could sell more transmission kits or get more work into your shop. @sprpilot Give that transmission a good 10k miles to settle down and man you enjoy the way that transmission behaves. Remember to change the filter after the break-in period.

I think you are confusing. relays maybe... There is a fuel pump relay in the PDC which is the power supply for the VP44. Then the stock lift pump lead from the ECM which does not come with a relay. Typically aftermarket lift pump have a power relay in the wiring kit. The only ones are the DDRP which typically do not have a relay kit which is very scary.

Very Very true. I've had him rebuild my 46RE for my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. Excellent job and top notch service! Even let me camp in his driveway. Yeap I've been there Jon is a super guy to work with...

Unknown. Just looking to show what gelled fuel looks like. Just a thick pudding.

@Marcus2000monster This is what I'm talking about as diesel fuel starts to gell become semi-solid its got to pull (suck) it longer distance. Pumps can push better for longer distance than they can suck or lift. Basically the parafin wax starts to clump together and thicken.

I think torque value tends to play a roll here for your trucks.

Now add the wheel no one runs just a tire without a wheel. I always measure fully mounted and aired tires on the scale.

The pump is in the blowing cold wind subzero. Way more length the pump is sucking fuel from the fuel tank. Sad to say no pump is designed to suck fuel. This why all manufacture started putting the fuel pump in the tank. Even with our truck we pull the pump off the block and moved them back towards the fuel tank and reduced the suction or lift the pump has to deal with. So I'll give you a milkshake and then give you a 20 foot long straw (1/2" diameter) and tell you to suck that milkshake while you sit in subzero weather. I bet you get rather frustrated.

Sorry it not. The cruise control must be before the check valve. What happens is the cruise control wipes out the vacuum reservoir and then the HVAC defaults to DEF mode till you get out of hill climb then throttle drops and vacuum returns. So Cruise before the throttle just comes up short a bit but HVAC does not fail back to DEF mode. I've done the mod hoping to make the cruise last longer but it creates other problems being the cruise will continue to command throttle venting vacuum till it reaches cruise speed. This is why cruise vacuum motor has to be outside the vacuum reservoir. Not to mention it will UNLOCK the CAD unit when the vacuum runs out. Stupid CAD axle junk!

The other problem with sumps is like another member is finding out is the gelling of fuel is more prone to happen being there is way more fuel exposed to blowing cold air in minus weather. Where a drawstraw all the lines are high against the bottom of the cab where there is way less air movement. Like my last down to Onrtario, OR was 2*F above. Fuel pressure was down nearly 4 PSI from typically. Quadzilla reported fuel temp in the VP44 at 52*F that's with all the things I've done. AirDog behind the transfer case, fuel ines inside the frame, stock fuel filter housing being used and kept the fuel heater. Now imagine the fuel lines from the sump and running to a mechanical lift pump in the front engine and then to the VP44. I doubt it will fair as well as I've been doing. History to this day I've NEVER gelled up yet. I've never used any anti-gel or cetane booster product in the winter time. My coldest day yet was right at -35*F recorded in the truck and never had any issues.

Typically you start at the transmission and it returns at the transmission cleaning the entire cooler system including lines. Rare do you just clean a cooler and not the lines. I've been known to load a system with lacquer thinner then blow it out with compressed air.

I know that feeling.

Don't do the sump if you smart. When you end up with a leaking fuel tank and you end up hunting wrecking yards looking for a fuel tank its not fun. I've already heard from 2 members that ended up replacing their fuel tank because of unfixable leaks.

Think about it the service interval is 7,500 miles of engine oil. Power Steering fluid is 30,000 miles.

The one I used to replace this one was on the shelf that purchased a while back. I think its a NAPA u-joint. The alternate plan was to down the truck and use the gasser. But at 3.099 a gallon for super unleaded (Requirement for the Mopar Performance PCM) and 2.999 a gallon for diesel I'd rather push to put the diesel back on the road. Might not be a quality u-joint but at least MoparMom will make it to dialysis tomorrow.

Thanks. U-joint is a small price to pay... My biggest concern is MoparMom and her health. Again I've got bigger fish to fry from attempting to get home dialysis started, talking with an attorney, and keeping the bills paid. Changing a U-joint seems rather minor. Yeah, I get your point. If I'd only taken the extra moment and crawl under with the grease gun I might not of had to change it in the first place. Like on my side job list I've got to move SmartyResource again to another server. It just never ends for me.

No. Because still the heat is breaking down the fluid. Not to mention if you have a filter and in plugs up are you willing to lose steering and braking control because you trying to extend a fluid change interval? Not I... I'd rather change it every 30k miles.

People still believing that washable filters are the better filter. I'm not giving up on the BHAF it's doing an awesome job. Stupid K&N filters...

Some of this stuff I'm kind of fudging on maintenance wise being the lack of time. Then constantly being on the road. I'll admit my last time I had the local shop grease those joints while they had the truck on the lift doing tire rotation. Did he put enough in? Did it just get skipped? Who knows. I know I've skipped on my last oil change didn't bother because of lack of time. Spend 13 hours a day in the truck and 39 hours a week! Like today I'm still behind trying to catch up. I've got to pack tools to do repair on a Ford Explorer and fix the door handles tomorrow. I've got paperwork to do for MoparMom's Dialysis yet. Then take care of some bills that hit my desk this evening. Time is not on my side.

Yeap that what I've learned. As long as you pushing enough grease to push the debris and old grease out they will last quite a long time. Like this most likely failed because it got a harden grease plug in the end of the arm that failed.

Even the OEM factory didn't last very long either (sealed). They were replaced in the first year of ownership. Even had a brand new front driveshaft installed at 15k miles because the u-joints failed and tore up the cardan joint. Greaseable seem to last much longer.

Sad to say they don't. About 3-4 months I can wipe out the non-greaseable U joints. When I had the shop do my carrier bearing on the rear shaft he replaced all three u-joints with solid non-greaseable joints failed in about 3 months of winter driving. End up replacing all them with greasable u-joints and last 2 years and 65k miles. Being every oil change I can pump grease in all the joints and solid u-joints you can't so the salt and water take there toll faster. I should shot a picture or the salt formations on my exhaust system gives you an idea how nasty the conditions are...

Yeah, I got over 65k miles on that u-joint. Not bad but it takes all the abuse of road salt and water. Doesn't surprise me to have that one fail. Still in all to be able to change u-joint without pulling the entire driveshaft was a huge time saver.

Last night on the way home I start detecting a vibration occurring when the driveline went slack. Kind of knew at that point the rear driveshaft was going to be the trouble maker. I found a way to change the rear most u-joint in under 1 hour without pulling the driveshaft. I grabbed the Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press and began to press the old joint out. Finish the job and rolled it out of the shop in under 1 hour.

They really don't hold vacuum at all. Not so much an issue as making sure it creating enough vacuum at the time of operation. In other words making sure there are no vacuum leaks like crack vacuum lines or bad rubber fittings. With age, you'll start to lose vacuum motors the diaphragms will crack or rip. The only thing the vacuum drives on my truck is HVAC controls and exhaust brake. No CAD axles (Thank Gawd!) Hate that damn thing on the 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. That truck has HVAC, cruise control, and CAD and more prone to vacuum issues. One thing to note. Make sure the HVAC is behind the check valve. The cruise control should be before the check valve.