Mopar1973Man

AGM and gel cell cannot be equalized charged. Charge rates that are excessive can and will vent moisture from the electrolyte. Once the cells dry out exposing plate material the cell is permanently damaged. Over 25 years battery experience. When the 8 batteries here cost $4,800 a set to replace you learn VERY QUICKLY how to make then last the longest. Equalize charging changes the sulfation on the plate back to lead material. It also stirs the sulfuric acid and distilled water back together and prevents stratification or separation of the sulfuric acid and the distilled water. Again this is something you cannot do with an AGM or gel cell. http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/equalizing_charge

Just like an alcoholic or drug abuser, you can blame anyone you like but in the long run only you are to blame. We didn't press the "ORDER" button on the DAP site. We didn't turn the wrenches to install said power enhancements. I know the truth. Just like @TFaoro he got the power bug fever so bad that now he had to buy a second truck because his powerhouse truck is ALWAYS broken.

My 1996 has that problem but not on the 2002.

I know the feeling.. That is awesome to feel.

Exactly. Ive seen brand new 2017 vehicles look like utter crap because the owner doesn't give a damn. They whine about how their very is always broken or falling apart.

Some of us have control of the power bug fever.

I'm not a fan of gel or AGM batteries. Being all my lead acid batteries last over ten years. Even then 4,800 dollars worth of batteries powering my house and never had a corrosion issues and life span of 13 years. I can equalize my batteries every month and top off the electrolyte.

My performance tune is 1600 and my economy tune is 1200.

Engine oil. What is the only two substances that can hold sulfuric acid? Plastic and glass. So what is plastic made from? Oil. I keep my post damp with engine oil and never have to clean my terminals.

P1693 code is just a flag. It tells the tech more codes on other module. So if P1693 code is present on the PCM then the other codes are present on the ECM. This also applies visa versa. Industrial injection is a certified Bosch rebuilder. All pumps today are rebuilt there are no new pumps any longer. As for updates @Me78569 is right.

I've got to Thank @JAG1 for the Husky liners he got me as a give for installing his VP44 in his truck. Then the Weather Tech vent shades.

Geez... That low in life being I had 243k on my last pump. Now replaced it with a DAP unit (Midwest Fuel Injection). I ran a full year untapped and put on over 49k miles already. Figure spring time I'd be road safe no more snow and ice. Then the warranty would be up as well. Slapped the stealth plate on and kept trucking. Best way to tap I've never had any wire issues or electronics issues.

Well, I'll admit my high beam are kind like the bottom picture. I can see everything in your cab even for a truck driver. Yeah, it happened when I tired and not paying attention the hi and lo beam both become a blur to me and seem the same. 13 to 15 hours driving makes for long days.

Sorry... That because I'm typically packing a 9mm on my side.

https://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO https://www.morimotohid.com/ http://www.piaa.com/store/p/147-LP-530-Driving-LED-Light-Kit.aspx As you can see true performance lighting has a precise cutoff and doesn't blind people. Better display on a test pattern wall.

Here is my other Truck... Not a Cummins but it is a Dodge Ram...

I bought a name brand Mr. Coffee - Coffe maker. I bought the simple version of just the toggle switch still without all the clock and stuff to go wrong. Would you believe after barely 6 months the simple toggle switch failed? Yeap. It quit working. I wanted coffee so I broke out the screwdrivers to start pulling it apart. I'm greeted on the bottom of the coffee maker with a warning that there is no serviceable parts and you should not open the coffee maker which might put you at risk of a fire. Screw that... I proceeded... 4 screws are normal Phillips but 2 screws are Allen wrench. Are you kidding me? Ok back to the shop I cheated again instead of Allen wrenches I grabbed a T10 Torx screwdriver it fit perfect. Pull the bottom off pull the two leads off the switch mated the two blade connectors together crushed them tightly with my multi-tool. The wrapped it up with electrical tape. Sweet sound of coffee brewing... Now in days everything is made cheap and mostly made of cheap plastic. So next time I head to Ontario, OR I'll be buying another offee maker for us. This is just sick and wrong why doesn't anything last?

Actual that photo make me think of all the CHEAP bastards out there retrofitting LED's and HID bulbs in stock headlight housing. At least I spent the $1,000.00 dollars for quality lights (Morimoto HID's Headlights and PIAA LED Driving lights) and didn't cheap out and do like 90% of the public is doing. https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Replacement-Headlight-Hi-Lo-Ballasts/dp/B01CFG588K/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1522364854&sr=8-29&keywords=2000+dodge+ram+hid+headlights https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Housing-Corner-Headlight-Conversion/dp/B071ZTRR39/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1522364937&sr=8-28&keywords=2000+dodge+ram+hid+headlights https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Housing-Corner-Headlight-Conversion/dp/B0736KRM1B/ref=sr_1_45?ie=UTF8&qid=1522364981&sr=8-45&keywords=2000+dodge+ram+hid+headlights https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Truck-Package-Headlights-Ballast/dp/B012ER0YBQ/ref=sr_1_50?ie=UTF8&qid=1522365017&sr=8-50&keywords=2000+dodge+ram+hid+headlights The list is endless on Amazon of cheap $100 HID headlight setups for our trucks but not one of them is truly street legal.

As of 338k miles March 29, 2018.

Same here. Just tight. Never lost a trailer yat.

Stock and no front end issues or steering box issues. 338k and still smiling. Still straight as an arrow.

Even after you do the crankcase vent mod you still have to pull the radiator every 5 years or so. Even mine fills up with caked mud and I can't seem to get enough water flow at the bottom. Just easier to pull and wash it properly.

There is a fix for that...

Funny part is the push lock fittings for joining hose together is actually used in the AirDog kits because of the ready-made kit the hose is too long. AirDog supplies the coupler so you can cut the hose down short and join it together.

Another passing thought it doesn't really do much good if you have oil leaks that slobber all down the side of the engine and everything else. Yeah, it makes locating the oil leaks easier when the engine is clean. Still not fixing the oil leaks doesn't do much good. In a short time the small oil leak can make a huge mess and your back to where you started again. Like I've got 2 current oil leaks. I've got a power steering input shaft seal weeping. Then the gear case just below the VP44 is weeping. No, it's not the vacuum pump it's totally dry and spotless. The is where the gearcase mates to the block. So after you wash it all down inspect and wash suspected leaks down good and then take it for short drive and monitor your leaks. Take not of how fast and where they are located. So now you can resolve the leak and clean up one last time and have that spotless engine.