Mopar1973Man

That engine is awesome. Huge power. The rig itself is a turd.

I've found that most part stores can actual test for ac noise to some degrade or another. Like my last time was at a AutoZone and the clerk had a simple hand held device just clips on the battery tested the system while idling. The tool failed the alternator but never gave a voltage measurement. Now at NAPA's they have a test stand that will repair full load AC voltage typically around 1.00 to 1.20 AC volt range for good alternator under full load. Another alternator shop in Ontario the gent has a very expensive hand held tool that does battery test and alternator testing on the vehicle. Just depends on how much money the store manager/owner is willing to invest on tools for the public.

I would never plug off a injection line. Being the pump is capable of seriously high pressures 18k or 20k PSI once it dead headed the line something is going to fail. I figure the rotor plate will give first being its the weakest link in the pump. The rotor plate is seen here at the head of the main shaft. This plate rides in the 3 grooves where the rollers and shoes go. The two stubs on the top of the rotor shaft is what fits into that plate.

As far as I know that all certified rebuilders have to replace the PSG module with a Bosch supplied module during the rebuilding process. Rebuilders are not supposed to re-use the electronics. So this means that every pump has to go through the Bosch 815 test stand to be calibrated and have the PSG flashed after passing 3 hours of calibration and testing.

Cummins Insite tool will plug in there too.

Top left corner here is the grid heater wiring and it's very simple.

I took a piece of rubber hose split it lengthwise and just zip tied the rubber hose on the A/C line to prevent rubbing. Then for the heat shield... https://mopar1973man.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=8110

Yes sir... I was facing the airstrip. Very quiet place never heard a single plane in the entire time I was camped there in his driveway.

The set I got a while back fit just fine. Maybe things have changed? I just thought of something if you have some Home Depot orange degreaser spray the inside of the boots it will make them super slick. You should be able to shove the steel tube in deeper making up for the excessive length.

Sure knock yourself out. Easier just to copy the link and paste it to someone.

The filter oil isn't the problem. The gunk that makes it through the filter because the filter doesn't filter out the gunk.

Nope, the water hammer killed the fuel pressure sensor. You'll need a new fuel pressure sensor and relocate the sensor away from the VP44. This is one reason my fuel pressure sensor is mounted near the ABS module this gives over 6 feet of tube run away from the VP44 and pulses fade with distance. I'm sunning an ISSPro snubber and a needle valve which the needle valve has no purpose other to close the line if a leak occurs.

Am I going to assume you installed the fuel pressure sensor at the VP44?

BHAF will last 100k miles without ever washing the filter. $50 bucks or so and cost way less than any other washable filter. The other problem is what is the filtering micron rating of any washable when you install it? What is the micron rating after 5 washes or 15 washes? When do you know that the filter is not doing its job properly? Typically the answer to the last question typically gets answered when the blow by the engine is too high to start in the morning. At that point it's too late the rings and cylinder walls are gone.

After working for SmartyResource and building there Policy violator listing and doing some research on eBay and Amazon sellers I will not buy any stuff for my truck from these people. Most of these sellers on eBay and Amazon don't even have a simple contact information. No phone number, no mailing address, no email, not even a website. So now if you have warranty issue your screwed and no one to contact no company name to back up the purchase. I say like the rest go over to DAP and talk to Jacob tell him that I (Mopar1973Man.Com) sent you.

@trreed personal truck.

They are all right here. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/

My OEM clutch was like that but I caught it early before damage was done. Just replaced it with a South Bend Clutch.

Injector never fired on the dead cylinder. Just like if your run 3 CYL high idle. No damage will happen.

Make sure it's exactly the same there is over 52 different versions of ECM per year! My last alternator only lasted 4 months. That doesn't mean anything now test the alternator for AC noise levels.

Be glad you couldn't crimp or seal the line off. I think if you dead headed the VP44 on that line (hydro-lock) the pump it would of broke the rotor plate in the pump.

Test the alternator before using it. $100 for bit more you could get a new stock alternator. As for the ECM there is no new ECM any longer you have to have your rebuilt.

That condemns the ECM it is failing. This also points out there is excessive AC noise from the alternator.

Like I'm in the same boat. 5 Speed transmission, 3.55 gears and tires measure out at 99.7 inches and it shows +2 high on the Quadzilla (67) vs Speedometer (65) and the GPS (65).

Instantly with the key being turn on? Any delay time wise?