Mopar1973Man

Watching and wanting to learn about the conversion.

What @dripley attempted to post... Then since there is a ECM failure I need you to check the AC noise output from the alternator. Most likely the alternator killed the ECM.

Typically the speed sensors are to blame for ABS / Brake light issues. In my case it was the tone ring in the right front hub broke the spot welds and spun the tone ring free. There has been one member here that had a carrier bearing fail and the tone ring for the rear differential was out of view of the rear sensor so be sure to check your tone rings.

The only difference I've got the black with red needle in the ISSPro EV2 series. They look just like the stock cluster at night even the same green tint light.

Absolutely. Like out here the ranchers commonly devote one truck for wide tires so they can float across muddy fields for feeding cattle. Like how I see tires. If I was to step off into the snow with normal boots on I would sink to the bottom. If I put on snow shoes I can walk on top. So that being said wider tires will allow a vehicle to float on top of a surface be it mud or snow. Narrow tires will sink in and bite the road way better. Since I know my front axle weight is 4,440 pounds typically that is 2,220 pound on each tire. So if I've got narrow tires on there is more weight per square inch pressing down to the road way. Where a wider tire will have less pounds per square inch pressing down allowing the vehicle to float on a surface better. So yes I understand the purpose and reason of wider tires. But 90% of the truck on the highway I look at every day never see a muddy field or even leave the pavement. Nothing more than "Pavement Princess". Like where I live most of the truck with wide tire that roll into town are got mud and slop to the driver window. But these are true work trucks.

Why I've never jumped in the over sized tire game.

You can run 35-inch tires with 4.10 easy. I've got a local gent that insisted on keeping his 37-inch tires so he swap out front and rear axles 3.55 gears for 4.10 and now has good power once again for that large of a tire. Cost him about $4,000 to be swapped out locally.

Not really. That means it's pushing the coolant out if the cap is still sealing. This is why I suggested cutting the vacuum breaker on the cap. It just ensures the system vents the pressure into the coolant bottle and not on the ground.

tube steel Gate that is removable total length 18' 82"x16' usable deck 82" wide between the fenders 2-5/16" coupler 7,000 lb gvwr 1,650 lb dry weight 5,350 lb payload (2) 3,500 lb EZ lube dexter axles (best in industry) Electric brakes on both axles ST205/75R15 steel wheels and radial tires black 15" mod wheels pressure treated wood automotive frame paint fully equipped with LED lights manufacture warranty I say go bigger. You'll be surprised how fast that 5,350 pound limit is reached.

Give an idea. This is what I'm running for 7x0.0085 (+75 HP injectors) and HX35/40 turbo (60/60/12), BHAF and 4" exhaust (muffled). Economy tune I start at 80% fuel and work my way to 150% at 30 PSI of boost. I hit 100% fuel at 10 PSI of boost. Nearly smoke free all the time. Performance tune I start at 90% fuel and work my way to 150% at 18 PSI of boost. I hit 100% of fuel at 4 PSI of boost. This tune has just bit of smoke launching but clears up very fast.

Like myself, I clear 250 miles per day, 750 miles a week, 3,000 miles a month. This last year I've cleared 65,000 miles alone. I'll be towing my 31' foot Jayco RV here next month. Then towing my BigTex 70TV trailer for firewood. I live in an area where tow trucks and cell phone don't exits typically. VP44 pump is very reliable pump and can produce the same reliability as a VE pump. Four things to look for. 1. AC noise excessive (Only 24V thing still applies to existing PCM, ECM, and remaining computers!) 2. Poor Fuel Filtration (This applies to both VE and VP44) 3. Poor fuel pressure (This applies to both VE and VP44 since both rely on fuel flow for cooling) 4. Poor fuel lubricity (This applies to both since standards of fuel changed to 520 HFRR for lubricity score - Bosch requires <460 HFRR)

That's a 1st gen engine, 12V cam, 12V heads, etc. It was designed that way. Kind of different. Apples to Oranges here. Now retrofitting a VE pump to 24V you have to take a lot into consideration. VE Pump is smaller than VP44 (less volume). Being able to time it correctly. etc. The list goes on. Might ditch the electronics but going to impose a whole new set of hurdles like future diagnostics... Not sure if he's in a Smog state or inspection state. This might pose another issue. Impressive. Not any worse than my 27.2 MPG on a VP44. (Edge Comp, +50 HP injectors, and a BHAF - stock exhaust and intake)

You going to lose a bunch in the VP44 removal. VP44 are VERY reliable. My last VP44 lasted 243k miles. (Currently on the clock 337k miles). My high mark MPG is 27.2 MPG. Something neither a P-pump or a VE pump will do. Now with the Quadzilla giving me full control of the timing and fueling of the VP44. Neither P-pump or VE pump can be electronically controlled and tuned. Since both the pump have limited timing you going to lose MPG's for sure. VE pump usage was ended because the pump couldn't produce enough fuel volume. This why the P-pump replaced it.

It would help if you list out your truck information in your signature. I'm going to assume your stock truck. Here is the download area of Quadzilla Tunes https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/

Should be for light duty and short trips. Just watch your coolant temperatures and coolant level closely.

Stock pickup is too restrictive.

The little steel flap/valve. Not the rubber. Typically head gaskets go because of lack of coolant flushing.

Still cut that vacuum breaker flap. This will ensure you don't leak more when engine temps comes up. Radiator caps are cheap, engines are expensive.

Personally I wouldn't. Ive got to ask is it coolant that is leaking? If so cut the vacuum breaker off the radiator cap so the cooling system cant build pressure. This is kind of a red neck way but it should buy you that time.

Both radio and mirrors have the ground in the cab at the drivers side kick panel. I know both have fuses in the cab but also the is a master fuse in the PDC under the hood. Ive seen fuses crack and not blow out.

No. You need a single relay for each bulb. There is no way around that. I've tried when I had sport headlights.

Personally, Don't Do It... LED headlights will blind everyone. Beam pattern is typically really poor with LED's. If you want brighter lights you'll have to look towards the HID's. LED's have got a bad reputation for poor beam pattern and blinding people. I've seen a huge increase of people buying cheap LED headlight I end up high beam most of them because of the crappy beam pattern. Typical 55/60W halogens are safe and won't blind anyone. You'll need a relay kit. Now this is a quality headlight. Crisp cut off line and steps down on the on coming side of the highway. You not going to get this quality with a LED headlight period.

Actually APPS voltage starts out about 0.5xx typically and goes up.

@W-T You've got a following... You might edit your article with the steps on how to do this...

Yeah, there is something wrong with the ECM. Could be software internal issue (solder joint) etc.