Mopar1973Man

Being I came from a lopey problem and I thought it was injectors the first time. I think it was overly tight valve lash.

There is only two solenoids one for the fuel pin then the other for controlling fuel pressure to the timing piston. Either way the ECM is sending commands for fuel and timing while cranking. The cranking fuel pressure is only to prevent the timing piston from being over commanded to excessive advancement.

Typically pressure is caused by a cracked head that is cracked into the return rail. So compression gases are pushed into the fuel tank. I really hoping not to be this. I'm hoping for vacuum hiss. Typically you would remove the sender or remove the bed so you can work on the sender. I would use some brake cleaner and attempt to blow the vent clear. Bad part is this will push the dirt into the tank. I would rather remove the whole fuel sender and use compressed air to blow it out.

No. The 10mm bolts holding the lines to the intake. Do not mess with the 8mm clamps.

Again this why all the lines are typically left in place and you flush the entire system with the can. Hook up the can, push the button till the can is empty, then grab compressed air blow the lines out dry. The entire cooling system is flushed and clean. As for cleaning just the one cooler it going to be a big PITA trying to hook up that can and flush the one cooler out. Then getting air in there and blowing the solvent out. Again much easier to have all the lines in place. Unless you want to remove the entire cooler to just clean it. Just seem like more work than what is required.

No. I typically leave all the lines in place to change injectors. Just remove all the bolts holding the injector lines to the intake. They will flex just a little bit to allow the connector tubes to be pulled out.

Those are both 60-65 HP tuners. Very limited. Quadzilla is a totally different animal. Use it once and sell it. The high idle will remain on the truck. I borrowed Bob Wagners Smarty for a day and mailed it back to him. Still to this day got the high idle function. Remember Quadzilla also has high idle too but no 3 cylinder function. You can't mix Quadzilla high idle and Cummins 3 cylinder high idle.

Check your vacuum source like the others have mentioned. Then double check the wiring to the vacuum solenoid valve. Have someone toggle the switch on and off and check for the vacuum on the other side of the solenoid valve. Like my Jacobs Brake, there is little plastic pins that lift the valve and they wore down so I made need ones out of wire coat hanger. Repaired my solenoid valve. Basically, if there vacuum in the line going to the valve then there might be an issue with the diaphragm in the exhaust brake.

Work in a tire shop for one summer you'll understand the weight difference really fast everytime you lift those heavy 35 and 37-inch wheel and tire combos. I've worked in a tire shop twice in my life so far.

Thanks @dripley ... He's right!

Ah, that's easy. Come down here i'll do it for you. Just bring the beer for payment.

The first question have you checked to see if the hissing of the fuel tank is vacuum or pressure related to the fuel tank? If its vacuum your tank vent is most likely plugged with mud and debris. If its pressure than you might have bigger issues like a cracked head. So before I scare you to death with what if's let's check and see if there is a blast of pressure when you release the fuel cap or sudden rush of air into the tank because of vacuum.

Might be for me... Over time from this louder 4 inch Diamond Eye Muffled Exhaust. Damn, this is still loud and the drone is pretty good. Never had that with my old stock 3" inch exhaust. That was super quiet with a NAPA muffler. Loud enough MoparMom get mad at me because she can't hear me talking over the drone as I hit the exhaust brake in the same spot every time I travel downgrades. This is one of the reasons I always kept my fuel pressure around 17 PSI at idle and WOT at 15 PSI. This made the cranking pressure plenty low enough to never have a starting issue. Now with a 12 year old AirDog 150 I've bumped up the pressure a bit more because the winter cold the fuel pressure are even lower. Don't let anyone tell you about the torn diaphragm story. We've disproved that a few years ago when I tore a VP44 down and the quote "diaphragm" was a steel plate in a Revision 027 pump.

Does it come on eventually? Sometimes when the ECM memory is damaged and it takes 60 seconds or more to boot up and trigger the WTS light. If the WTS not coming on double check fuses. ECM will not power the lift pump till it boots up and triggeers that WTS light. It will not even start till that WTS light is on. This is a sign the ECM is booted up and functional without the WTS its braindead.

@dripley Eh? You said what? Eh? I'm only 100k behind you at 334k miles.

Again another Book Smart Cummins Technician.

Yes. It will prevent the overcurrent or locked rotor from wiping out the ECM driver for the lift pump circuit.

True... But you typically have to custom order that downpipe.

Most all exhaust system come with a downpipe for the stock 3-inch hook up.

I've got 4-inch exhaust bolted on my exhaust brake and no issues. Even with the 3-inch exhaust, I didn't have any issues.

It's the upgraded software version of the Quadzilla version 1 to Quadzilla version 2 software. Better tuning and better control. Should be capable of handling Quadzilla.

Pacbrake PRXB is the strongest exhaust brake you can buy. https://pacbrake.com/product-lines/exhaust-brakes/

ECM runs on a 50% duty cycle during cranking. This means 50% of the time there is a solid 12V at the pump and then 50% of the time there is 0 Volts. its a square wave pulse created by the ECM to reduce pump pressure during cranking. You can see the pulse in this old video.

Comparing Colorado low temps to Montana is bit like the Apples and Oranges. @Marcus2000monster is a next door neighbor to me and I see cold temperatures here in Idaho but Montana holds the cold longer and deeper in the minus numbers compared to Colorado. So by the time Colorado warm up again Montana is still in the low numbers yet. Something ot consider in fuel system design.

Yes. Your cranking pressure is too high causing the timing piston to over advance and making it difficult to start. When you unplug the AirDog and then start there is no fuel pressure so the timing retards making easy to start. Cranking fuel pressure should be 7-12 PSI. Above 12 PSI typically is the problem of hard starts.