Mopar1973Man

This should help you'll see the sensors on the bottom of the wiring map. Map sensor is up above the ECM.

Hang out here. We'll teach you from a distance...

Those are like $3,000 tools! You stole that!

Very rare indeed. Most here only dream of having DRBIII tool.

Most codes are not reported correctly on OBDII tools. Here is the correct definitions.. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/obdii-error-codes_94/

Doubt its a APPS sensor... Typically its a ECM when there do a limited rev.

Just wait till people are stealing your pressure sensors.

Outside temperature. I've got a standard SLT package without the overhead computer so I added everything myself. GPS, outside temperature and trip computer.

Any Android phone or tablet or iPhone or Apple tablet. No, the screen does not come with it. Like myself, I use my cellphone for my display. The nice part is you are NOT required to use your device every time you drive the truck. Once you are set up Quadzilla will still operate as usual without a display. This makes it better than the Smarty. So if you have a roadside inspection. There is nothing in the cab that scream tuner. If you do the install clean for the Quadzilla box and hide it well, it will not be noticed. So like Edge Juice and Smarty both require to have a display. This is a dead give away to a law enforcement officer doing a road side inspection. Even in my truck I've got a gooseneck stand for my cellphone. You could easily just shut the app down for the Quadzilla and it just looks like a cellphone. Again none the wiser. Like here is the Smarty Touch... This is kind of a dead give away you've got a tuner if you got the screen in the corner of the windshield and cables ran down the dash. Quadzilla only has 1 wire ran into the cab which is the key-on sense.

Might just have to do a black market buy on a used Quadzilla...

The only thing externally is the wastegate controller either has a hose or a solid tube. Quadzilla doesn't modify anything on the ECM. It only modifies the communication to the VP44. You can setup the Quadzilla as a CANBus only and no wire tap. Still be able to tune the fuel and timing without any modification to the ECM software at all. Smarty on the other hand if it not returned to stock then there is a change in the checksum. It should return to stock and not leave a footprint at all. But comparing prices of both I hate to say it but I would suggest the Quadzilla to the Smarty. Quadzilla will produce more HP/TQ vs. the Smarty. Tuning is WAY EASIER on the Quadzilla compared to the Smarty. Smarty Touch for the 24V is still just a 60 HP tuner. 180 HP Quadzilla ($675) - https://www.dieselautopower.com/quadzilla-power-1998-5-2000-dodge-5-9l-cummins-adrenaline-with-iquad 60 HP Smarty Touch ($865) - https://smartyresource.com/store/product/39-smarty-touch/ Price wise Quadzilla still better...

Personally... Upgrade to a Quadzilla so you can manage your fuel and timing. The stock timing is going to produce more EGT's because of its amount of retard timing while loaded. Then the fueling map you can control to prevent the over fuel and excessive heat on the top end. The other thing would be upgrade from the HY35 turbo to HX35 the exhaust housing on the HX is 12 cm2 which will reduce EGT's too.

Being that @hex0rz is right up near @Dynamic he could have that transmission inspected.

Yes it normal to have the rear height a bit high and giving rake to the vehicle stance. This was designed this way so when you hitch up a trailer it would sit level. I'm completely stock suspension this is what 8,500 pound trailer does.

4WD trucks tend to have a rather large block in the spring pack. 265/75 R16 is the same as a 265/70 R17 size wise. Weight, I can't speak for.

AC noise created by the lift pump by the armature making and breaking contact as it turns.

This where crap gets crazy. Being the front axle is modified and height is modified now the axle geometry has to be redesigned again to make correct. The only problem is you end up guessing the whole way. No matter what you do you may or may not get it right. I learned this lesson long ago on my 1972 Dodge Power Wagon after destroying a front axle numerous times. Ball joints, tie rod ends, axle u-joints, bearings, steering boxes, etc. The only thing I wanted was the Cool Look (Big Tires and a Small Lift) and all it did was cause major issues including leaving me stranded more than once. The for sure answer is stock setup which as I've proven works just fine for over many many miles and years. Again that why I traded that truck in for the 2002 Dodge Ram I'm driving today because the front axle and suspension was trashed Very "few" people have managed to do a lift and larger tires properly and keep the longevity.

I'll give it a test later on today.

Absolutely. Man I do miss doing firewood. Falling trees, bucking up the rounds. Then bring it all home and split it up and stack it for next winter. @W-T he's suppose create an actually soon about how to build your own noise filter for your lift pumps.

That truck I would consider.

After 335k miles I went right back to stock made parts. I'm not going to get all wrapped up in the T and Y steering debate. I made it that far on sealed factory OEM tie rod ends and no issues. Why would I even attempt ot fight another battle of fitting something not designed for our truck to hopefully make things better? T steering would have to exceed 335k make me take notice.

Relay and fuse in the same place. I got 12 V power at the PDC. Ground I got from the body.

Which version is current?

It's not the starting its the shutting down. So if I start and the tune starts to load and I shut down during the tune loading. Go into a store or shop then come back out later start again the loading tune bar is still there. Shut down the iQuad app and start the iQuad app again and it will refuse to load. The only way I found to gain control again is shut down the truck, shut down all apps on the phone. Wait a few seconds. Now start back up in my normal method it works again. Basically start the truck. Tune starts loading. Now shut down the truck for period of time 5 minutes or more. Now start the truck and stare at the previous loading of tunes bar that never quit and hung the app.