Mopar1973Man

Rear diff speed sensor is what controls the speedometer and the cruise control. Double check the tone ring position I've seen a case where the carrier bearings got worn and shift out of view of the speed sensor.

Bingo. 3rd gen fan clutch is based off coolant temperature sensed by the ECT sensor. As long as the flow from the thermostat is low the fan will not lock on the 2nd gen. It will cool to fast before the fan senses enough heat to lock even partially on cold winter day.

Might look at my daily tune its designed for MPG as a goal.

Very interesting article to bad it most likely skip over the older Dodge Ram trucks and Dodge vehicles.

Oh... MPG gauges are not available either on the 2.5 version.

Give me a call some time... I'll set up what you need. https://mopar1973man.com/contact/

@outlaw7 Heck, I've got several solutions to this issue. I could give you your own forum area to work from. You could produce an article page for static information. What do you need? I'm willing to provide some space for your project and allow you to manage without being inundated by a mess load of emails. Let me know how Mopar1973Man.Com can help in this venture...

Sound reasonable. Could a small 7 segment display be included to report actual seen AC voltage?

I would leave that open till you could test against a failing alternator. I know ar current load goes up so does the ripple voltage too. Hard to tell... Grid heater alone could push over 0.1 volt. Another way is load test a known good alternator and look at what the ripple voltage is for new alternator under load. But this might be too high for a low load.

Allen screw dead in the middle.

6 CYL you fine go for it. 3 CYL watch the EGT's it might get too hot with 3 CYL and exhaust brake on. I typically see right at 900*F on 3 CYL mode.

Wow. Got lots to do...

Typically a new alternator is in the realm of 0.03 AC ripple lightly loaded.

The old one wire alternator. There is a issues with these though you going to end up with shorter battery life because the alternator has no way to monitor battery temperature. So the alternator tends to either over charge (in the summer) or under charge (in the winter time). This is why I do not suggest the old school regulators mod for our trucks either because the regulator is based on case temperature of the regulator and made for poor charging control. Hence why this old technology was dropped and modern battery temperature control voltage regulation came to be. Even my big house inverter has a battery temperature sensor to regulate battery voltage based on temperature hence why my house batteries last over 12 years on the first batch. Now learning more about battery charging and maintenance I'm betting I can make it to 15 years.

Liquid deicer is corrosive to brass connectors and copper wiring so if you got any scotch locks used in the tail light wiring like most shops do then those will fail shortly after being exposed to the liquid deicer. Here you go... http://www.peterschemical.com/magnesium-chloride-as-a-road-deicer-a-critical-review/

Whenever something abnormal occurs. My clue for my truck is the weird cruise control. It would surge above set speed and the fall rapidly below set speed. Randomly keep doing this surging and letting up. As it gets worse you'll feel it in normal throttle too. Then the typical lock and unlock of the automatics. Then its time to test and more than like its marginal or failing. You can be paranoid do it every weekend or oil change. Still in all the fact is that it will randomly fail when the diodes overheat. This is why I keep repeating leave the wiring alone do not modify because it will not mask the issue and you'll have an early warning of the issue just starting. Every time it done it so far I've driven another 100-300 miles to get home to repair the problem which 99.9% of the time was failed diodes in the alternator.

I'm patiently waiting to see this thing fired up and rolling some day.

Trust me I know what you are saying... I hate Idaho salt...

Also, consider your rolling resistance and leveling kit adding to the wind drag. 33" is rather minor but still moves the final gear ratio down lower below 3.55 and puts more stress on the drive line. Like in your case to keep the 33" I would consider 3.73 gears to bring the ratio back.

Dreaming is one thing reality tends always be tough.

Better make more than that. Central Timer, Instrument cluster, ABS Module, SRS module, ECM, PCM, Stereo, etc. Anything electronic would require it. All these devices would need protection.

Just remember the Torqueflite A-727 transmission came out in 1962. The 47RE is just a 727 transmission with an overdrive unit added to the tail shaft. The 727 transmission was called 36RH or 37RH. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TorqueFlite

6 speed gains you nothing on the highway being the top two gears at the very same ratio as a 5 speed. Just for point of reference I'm typically in 4th gear by 30 MPH. So 1st to 4th on a 6 speed is all rowed out before you reach 30 MPH. Being 5th gear is the same as my 4th on NV4500.

You might want to look at some of the conversation about high pop pressures and some of the Quadzilla tunning. Like myself I'm running an HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12), +75HP (7x 0.0085) Injectors and using my daily tune I'm reaching 21.06 MPG These are not gasoline engine there is no such thing as lean mixture. You can be overfueling and creating black smoke but no way to lean it out. Typically you find your high MPG in those places. My typical engine load is mere 20-22% at 65 MPH compared to stock which could be as high as 30-35% engine load. Now Engine Load is equal to the amount of fuel injected.

Basically, if the injectors have over 100k miles you should think about replacement. I've seen people go much farther on stock injectors but the quality of spray goes downhill quick. Like When DAP tested my stock injectors even though they run fine they are mere 240 Bar at the worst injector stock is 310 bar. Even though they still run the 240 bar is just to poor if atomization for the quality of efficiency.