Mopar1973Man

You might be up for a challenge?! I started driving backwards before forwards. Every day for school I use to back the family car down the driveway to the front gate. So I knew how to drive backward before forwards. To this day I can typically drive faster than the transmission will let me in reverse.

Just stick the discharge hose of the shop vacuum to the filler neck of the fuel tank.

I'm scratching my head now. Headlights are on their own circuit fused out at the PDC. Radio is after the ignition switch side fused inside the cab. This is what is puzzling because power supply to the lights and radio are to totally different circuits. Now the ground sides are shared and are all in common with each other. I need to see wire colors. Hard to tell.

On my cord, one side is INFINITE Ohms. It's not burned like yours.

I should replace my block heater cord on my truck.

Yeah, just rubber tractor light buckets. I got mine from NAPA years ago. Yeah, the fronts were 100w bulbs as well and ran with two relays. One relay controlled power off and on. Then the second relay was controlling hi and lo beams. 2 bulbs where aimed hi for hi beam position and the other 2 bulbs where aimed lo for my lo beam position. Now as for bulb life for the old 100w bulbs the last batch was in the range of 9 months to 1.5 years. Backup lights automatic to come on with the transmission shifted in Reverse or I had a switch that I could toggle the reverse lights for rear lighting, for example, hitching up a trailer in the dark. Lowering the spare tire in the dark. Lots of good uses for my rear axle lighting with a toggle switch. The rear axle light lasted a long long time being they are rarely turn on for very long.

Yes, that was the left kick panel ground. I just needed to see the wire colors and knew that was it. The center of the dash is a pain in the to even see. You'll need to pull the knee bolster down on the driver side and look towards the center of the dash. It should be a cluster like what you seen of black and tan wires.

This should help you.

Last winter I replaced my starter knowing my problem is the brushes are shot. I went with a NEW NAPA starter and but trouble free for a solid year now and still starting strong and fast even with the winter cold down to -35*F last winter and this winter at -10*F so far.

Kind of like my finding with PIAA RF 530 Series LED's. http://www.piaa.com/store/p/147-LP-530-Driving-LED-Light-Kit.aspx When PIAA LED driving lights are brighter than Morimoto D2S HID's That says something about the quality.

Won't work you can't read the pressure while driving. Idle pressure is only the half of the story. This one will work. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/VPMAX-Fuel-Pressure-Tester-Test-Gauge-Schrader-p/fpt.htm Edited...

Remember suction air leaks will draw air in all the time and never leak fuel out. The other part of that is the air that does leak into the fuel system will retard the timing of the injection event and reduce MPG's as well. Suction leaks can be tested by pressurizing the fuel tank. So I would get the truck running and quickly shut down the engine. Then using a shop vacuum on the discharge side to blow air into the tank. Have a second person hunt around the suction side of the lines for fuel weeping out.

Good place to start. I would monitor fuel pressure during these hard starts and see if the gauge drops out. If so that is an air bubble coming through.

No. Not directly. During cranking there is no AC noise generated. I'm pretty sure the PCM disables the alternator during cranking. As for AC noise having effect on starting performance, it's possible that it could damage the VP44 and create issues but that guessing and speculation at this point. Typically hard starting is caused by air leak or loss of prime. I would start there.

Most likely not. I'm going to assume that is a totally different issue. ECM, PCM, and VP44 grounds are the passenger side battery terminal. Lift pump ground is on the driver side of the engine block behind the starter.

Crap. That's a PITA. So I would test at the VP44 for the temporary time. Still, you are going to find that stock lines are going to drop the pressure way too much. Back in the day stock powered without a tuner at all. I had to upgrade to 1/2" lines and move the stock lift pump back near the fuel tank to just barely keep the pressure above 12 PSI. Then when I added the Edge Comp I had to upgrade to the AirDog 150.

I would move that back to the stock filter at the bottom. Get away from the VP44 if possible. The thing is you'll find that your pressure might be good at idle but crappy under load. The stock fuel lines and banjo's are known for being restrictive. Might be better off calling Eric at Vulcan Performance and get a full 1/2" fuel system for the truck and then you'll be better off.

Yes...

Any update on your project?

Why? You've already got a 40 Amp circuit right there at the rear bumper. I used a relay to trigger the power to the lights. My relay is hidden in the driver side tail light area to keep the relay dry.

Well... I'm not going to tear mine down for measurements. Sorry, that's the best I can provide at this time.

Any updates to this if you got the blend door working?

If I'm not mistaken the G100 ground is on the driver side fender near the headlight.

AT least mine measures out at 60/60/12 for the Hybrid HX35/40W I've got.

Something is set up wrong. Large pressure drop is a sign of flow restrictions. I'm still running a 12 year old AirDog 150 and only see 1-2 PSI drop from idle to WOT. The "snap" is based on the CANBus fueling setup. Level only controls the wire tap for 4-10. If you want heavy throttle you can build a fuel table that ramps up really aggressive and create that power snap you are looking for. The whole thing is it takes time and effort on your behalf to create a tune that is powerful. You'll have to study timing effects and fueling to get a good tune to emerge. Just for fun info. I'm only running +75 HP (7 x0.0085 DAP injectors) and HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) no wiretap yet and in 4th gear, I can hit WOT and break the tires loose on wet pavement easy. I've not even got into the wiretap tuning yet.