Mopar1973Man

The reason why I said this... Because now you tampered with it and if you pull it out and the guy wants to be a pain the tail he can at a drop of a hat say you did something that causes the transmission to fail. Then void the warranty and now you stuck with a failed transmission again that you get to rebuild again. Yeah, it's a pain in the tail to pull it out again but its better off letting the rebuild be responsible for the failures.

Best to get your year of modules. Being there is the different changes there the years.

Agreed...

Had the same problem with my 75HP SACs now im running 75HP VCOs. Seems OK for now.

I would of never done any repairs under warranty i would of sent back the transmission to be rebuilt again as a warranty claim.

I've also done a few of the Hawaii islands. Awesome place to go. Also done a bit a scuba diving off the islands too. Man that was a long time ago back when I was in my 20's.

Still fighting the low end rattle.

Actually, from what I read on the Internet the 5k is the brightest light you can get for the most part. As you go up from there the amount of light is reduced as it changes to blue and violet colors. As you go down past 3k the light turns more yellow and the light is reduced again. So the 4k to 5k realm is about the brightest you can get. The 4k is more to the yellowish side where the 5k is more to the bluish side.

There is a download repository now for the tunes I'm in the process of fixing it up for mobile users.

I asked what would be the best for highway driving the tech suggested the 5k bulbs. I was looking for white light.

Here is exactly what I selected. Give them a call they are very helpful in explaining the options.

As soon as I get my weirdness dealt with I'm going back to tapping the pump and moving forward. Do note I'm working on the download area currently trying to resolve issues at hand mostly for mobile users.

Remember @Me78569 is running H1 Mini's... http://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO At least there is option now for folks that don't have the time nor want to bake off the lens.

Very nicely done. You can tell they have to grind away some of the lens covers to fit in the headlight case. You have to look really close to see the minor gap. Chrome on chrome makes it tough to see it. 5000k bulbs at 35 watts. My total was $720 with 2-day priority freight. The long mounting makes it impossible to tilt mine out. O just removed the 6 nuts on the main mounting slide the bumper out a bit and gain the needed room.

Depends on the volume of water you are dumping out your nozzle. This why most of our fire operations we only use 3/4" pencil lines this reduces volume to each user. Now if the fire is getting angry then you can step up to 1" inch but remember your limited supply of water it will disappear quickly on even 1" lines. Less volume being dumped the more pressure you have in reserve. More volume you dump the lower the pressure will become. As for the truck try and make it as a bed pallet. Something that is built to just slide in with a forklift or similar.

For every 1 foot elevation, you travel uphill you'll lose 0.5 PSI of pressure. Same is true if you travel 1 foot downhill you'll gain 0.5 PSI. So like my irrigation dam is 230 feet higher than the faucets at the bottom so if you divide 230 feet by 2 you'll get 115 PSI. So you'll need a booster pump for traveling up hill. Larger lines are always best to start will volume loss is minimal. Then you can divide out to smaller lines and everyone can work together fighting. Common to see 1 1/2" trunk lines that branch off to 1 inch lines. Then branch again to 3/4" pencil lines. The whole idea is to have you lines already laid out around the property and be able to charge the entire manifold. This way no matter which way the fire comes from a small crew of 2-3 people can handle a front of the fire. Unknown... I've built mine from older hoses that the department was replacing. Keep my hose rolled up in the shop so they are ready for fire anytime. I've checked them a few times dead heading the full line pressure and then hold up just fine.

Also, I bet the sensor is too close the injection pump and took on damage from water hammer pulses created by the VP44.

Like here I've not even bothered to fire up the hydro-generator this year because of the lack of rain fall and how dry it's getting. Yard looks good but the skies up here are very smoky and visibility is low. Like here on my property, I've got 1" line charged to roughly 116-118 PSI. Then in between the houses, there is a 1 1/2" fire hydrant fitting. This allows me to lay out enough line for refilling fire trucks at the highway. Another thought could be manifold out 3/4" pencil line and defend the houses from ground fire. The only area that is rather risky is the area behind the house. I've got 300 feet of 1 1/2 fire hose, I think 200 feet of 1 inch fire hose and maybe 200 feet of 3/4" pencil line.

Yes. I had to remove all the bolt and pull the bumper out just a bit to pass the mount of the headlight case.

Totally plug in play. The only thing that took time was moving the bumper to install the headlights.

Yes. I've been running exhaust brake and 3 inch exhaust nearly the full life of my truck.

Kind of like my Quadzilla and +50 HP injectors. 5 one-ton bails for a total of 10,000 pounds excluding the trailer. 7% grade up to...

Here is a test pattern on my shop door. Low Beam High Beam Then The Morimoto D2S Now a post to say thank you to a few people... @Me78569 Thank you for pioneering the Morimoto's H1 Mini's for our trucks and producing the article. @Snow Dodge Thank you for letting me look at your truck and giving me the information for Retro Shop that does the fitment of the Morimoto HID in the style of headlight case you wish. @moparmom for pushing me to get the HID lights. I had a hard time letting go of $700 bucks for headlights now I'm kicking myself in the tail for not doing sooner. The stress level of driving at night is much lower now. Feel more confident driving the dark canyon roads and can see deer way off the shoulder of the highway now. Really nice to be able to set the cruise and being able to see way down the road even with low beams. Being that every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday night I'm rolling in the yard at 11 to midnight.

On my trip home last night I was highly impressed in the light pattern. Now I remember seeing that little step in @Me78569 photo in his article. That is neat how the pattern lines up perfect with the center line of the highway. So the driver side of the beam is cut off just a bit early to prevent blinding on coming traffic. Then the passenger side is allowed to be stretched out a bit further. The Morimoto's happen to drown out my old school driving lights. You can barely see them any longer. I'm working at saving my pennies for the next step. I'm going to replace my old school 100 watt aircraft landing lights with a set of PIAA driving and fog lights. The only difference is I'm not using the Mini's that @Me78569 is using I'm using a bigger lens of the Morimoto D2S series. I'm also running 5,000k bulbs which are also 35 watts which are awesome. Matching ballast at 35 watts as well. Even on low beam the pattern is huge. You can see way more than any sport headlight conversion. High beam is wicked and I can see signs and reflectors way out at a mile.