Mopar1973Man

Grounds for the headlights are NOT under the hood. The headlight grounds are in the driver side kick panel. The center of dash ground goes to the driver side kick panel and that is where rust typically forms.

Too high... I would chase that ground connection. That should be 0 Ohms. So it might not be pulling the relay closed all the way.

Nope, that's a puddle of melted lead terminal from loose connections. You want to get military terminal like I've got pictured below and replace any and all lead that have corrosion in the copper. Once you get all new cables from a welding shop just either solder on new lugs or crimp them on. So you should have what's below.

Check your head light fuses most likely blown both fuses in the PDC.

So I'm not crazy... There is a bluetooth issue.

As far as I know they are still the old in-tank lift pump.

Keep your pumpkin on...

Welcome to the site. As for filter information, I would talk to @AH64ID he's the site filter guru. Might also ask him what to use for lift pump as well. Personally, I would side with AirDog being the pumps are smaller and easier to hide on the truck. Most here will suggest FASS fuel systems.

Sector adjustment is on the top side of the output shaft. Typically its a Allen bolt in the top with a jam nut holding the adjustment. I typically run it to the bottom and then back off about 1.5 turns and lock it down. Make sure your nut is loose enough that you not seating on the nut giving a false bottom. This is the bearing preload adjustment. As you can see there is plenty to adjust on these steering boxes and don't require replacement all the time. If the box is old and lots of miles I suggest talking to Ryan @ Blue Top Steering and getting a seal kit to rebuild your steering box then you can adjust it up tight once again.

Just talk to @IBMobile he'll get you lined out.

I'm at 54k miles in one year just running back and forth taking care of @MoparMom dialysis treatments. Started at 362 miles a trip every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. Now I'm down to 250 miles per trip same days. So tomorrow I've got to hop in the saddle and do it again. Heck in another 40k miles I'll have 100k miles on my NV4500 transmission and also proven than Mobil 50 trans fluid doesn't do any harm either. Just keep truckin'

Every April I disconnect my grid heaters and every October I hook them back up.

Might want to talk to @Chris O. he would know the answer to this.

Should have made that a new thread in the 4th gen area. Nice truck. Time to update your signature and garage... Just make sure you get after that fuel filter and get ready to replace injectors in the future. If the grid heater light comes on while your driving you can bet you've got excessive return flow from the injectors.

My best advice is to find a shop your willing to work with and then send the ECM to them and have it bench tested. Also while researching the ECM shops make sure to ask about warranty information and turn around times if there is a warranty issue.

I've heard tales of high mileage VP44 but never had the luck to talk to the actual person always a 3rd person knowledge.

Mine is still randomly hit / miss. Some days it hooks up everytime. Other days you have to start the app, shut it down, start it again, shut it down again. It like it does nothing. Not even attempting to hook to the bluetooth. Then eventually it grabs and connects.

VP44 history... OEM factory pump last 50k miles failed to P0216 code from a failed lift pump. Second pump last 243k miles and also failed with a P0216 code but stuck in full advancement. Working on my third pump now 320k miles on the clock. So the second pump had a good diet of 2 cycle oil all its life and lasted that long. No cetane boosters. No anti-gel. No injector cleaners. Double stacked filters (Factory filter and AirDog filter). Fuel pressure held solid at 15-17 PSI for 11 years now. AC noise tested anytime strange engine behavior is detected.

Typically no. MPG might rise 1-2 MPG. Notably, the engine rattle and noise is reduced.

I need to bring this up to @Quadzilla Power ... The user interface is needing some clean up. Vehicle Selection - Way too many Dodge versions floating in the vehicle selection. I've seen several times where people are asking which version do I use to get X new function. This needs to be cleaned up. Just in V2 there is 2.2, 2.4, 2.5 and 2.7... The vehicle listing should be separated Chevy, Ford, and Dodge. Then the versions of code V1 needs its own category then V2 in its own category. This will reduce the amount of problem for newbies and know what to pick. Any BETA version should be listed in a separate category. Menu Icon - Menu icon size never got resolved even with a newer phone switch from LG G3 to LG G5 its still tiny icon. With my phone case on its even more difficult to get the menu to pop up. Hidden timing feature - This needs to be changed up as well. I noticed that @Me78569 added a stock offset feature only if the other settings are set to ZERO. This will go unnoticed by many people. I highly suggest you add a toggle or switch to change the parameters on the screen so it's more user-friendly.

I vote for @IBMobile version it's the best DIY setup I've seen ever.

Be warned all ECM today are remanufactured there is no longer any new ECMs...

Then to double check remove the alternator and have it bench tested. That will double verify.

Double check your TV cable adjustment. If it not set correctly it will change the shift point vs throttle position. The TV (Throttle Valve) controls the amount of pressure in the valve body for the 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear shifts. Typically the TV cable should be set so both the throttle arm and the TV arm move together at the same time and hit WOT position together. Some people will take up excessive amount of slack so the TV actually hits WOT sooner this should cause the transmission to hold a lower gear longer. So visa-versa is true too excess slack in the cable will cause early shifting and possible lugging.

Your Swepco 711 seems to be the same as Mobil 50 SAE. You might look at Swepco 202 the only thing is I can't tell if it's a GL-4 lube. I only need 40k miles to reach 100k miles on Mobil 50 trans fluid. So far no issues for me at all.