Mopar1973Man

Is the Wait To Start light coming on right away with ignition key? You might have a failing ECM caused from excessive AC noise from bad diodes. Also could be a damaged PSG unit on the VP44 from the same reason listed above. I would have the alternator tested for AC Ripple.

One of the reasons I didn't build my own. All these extra things you've gotta have to make it work. Then deciding on 35w or 50w bulbs and ballast, temperature of the bulb, control relay, etc. Yes you need a control relay, 2 ballast, and HID projectors.

Whiner... This is good jeans and tee shirt working weather. Never bust a sweat and never get hot either. Beer stays cold without a refrigerator.

Just to let everyone know we will have alternator diodes in stock here really soon.

That's sad...

Very possible... I would do the BlueChip hot wire trick on the VP44 to verify the pump is truly dead. This removes the ECM and all computer and the VP44 is hot wired to run solo it should start and idle that's all if the pump is good. If the VP44 failed it will not start. Being there is no other error codes I would also have the alternator tested being it very possible the alternator had failed and was feeding way too much AC noise and killed the PSG on the VP44.

I was right here cussing out every person that welded there exhaust systems together and figuring out ways of carefully breaking joints and cutting welds. After all that I learned a few things. Never weld an exhaust system together. Always clamp near the edge of the outer pipe. If you have to cut a bit off later to reinstall you'll still have lots of pipe to work with.Then like I said before clamp hard enough to hold but not to crush the pipe excessively. Another reason on not welding is the welded joints will be more prone to rusting back out when welded. Most all new exhaust systems either aluminumized or stainless will last a very long time as long as you don't burn the aluminumized coating off or have exposed steel.

Looks like a back seat partner... I've got one of those.

Very valid point. If your using bolt clamps might the tight enough to hold but not tight enough to crush into the pipe. Just as bad as welding then.

There has been at least one report of a 2002 Dodge Ram with a KDP failure. There used to be a picture of the dealer invoice showing the KDP report for a 2002 Dodge Ram under warranty. So any year is possible to have a KDP problem. Just rare above 2001.

Which also makes for a great "Garage Queen" as it always broke down. Then it's silent...

Yes. My truck is very quiet. I've got a 4" exhaust with a diamond eye muffler. Even my 3" exhaust with a flow thru NAPA muffler ran great and never had any restriction issues. https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12911-4-inch-exhaust-needed/

Darn version confusion...

Compressed air blow gun and a rag at the filler neck. Pretty simple.

Just because the VP44 pump is pushing fuel out the line doesn't mean its making the full 4,500 PSI to fire the injectors. Yes, it takes a minimum of 4,500 PSI in the injection lines to fire the injectors. So if you have a air leak on the suction side of the lift pump it will be enough to prevent starting or running. So first thing to do is check for fuel line leaks on the suction side. Be aware they never leak outwards. What I typically do is pressurize the fuel tank and 1-2 PSI and have a second person hunting along the fuel lines to find any leaks. Might be hissing air or fuel weeping out.

I think so... I would be cutting the screens out and leaving the pickup part there. I also would have to agree I would rather have the filtering done in a bigger removal filter than inside the tank. Trust me I'm not looking forward to doing a fuel module on my 1996 Dodge 1500 because the fuel pump, regulator, filter and sender are all one big pack that goes in the tank.

Really should check the AC noise levels again to be sure. Really suck to have the ECM damaged again because the diodes were marginal at best. Be aware we are now going to start stocking the diode pack for the alternators now. Just don't have them in stock nor any information as of just yet but soon.

Never did like the idea of roof clearance lights. They always leaked!

I'm going to bet the fan squirrel cage is full of debris. I would consider replacing the cables soon this will only get worse over time. There is another thread on the site where a guy is replacing a main cable and crimping eys on and using military terminals.

Skip the sport headlights and get a single bulb headlight case... https://www.amazon.com/SPPC-Crystal-Headlights-Chrome-Corner/dp/B00JBIACJG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1509724416&sr=8-7&keywords=2001+dodge+ram+headlight

After watching that show, Mike Finnegan reminds me of @TFaoro truck...

4.3k bulbs will be a warmer orange color light. 5k bulbs will be more of a bluish colored light. Very minor differences. Here is 5k bulbs... My driving lights are like a 3k bulb...

Send in a support ticket we'll look into it... I've done the sport headlights with relay mod. I've four 100w aircraft landing lights with relay mod. After all said and done... HID headlights blow the doors off of any stock headlight mod out there right now. Trust me its worth the extra money and just change over to HID lighting and skip the whole britebox idea or relay mods. I drive 250 miles every other day from New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR and back New Meadows, ID. I know what you mean about dark.

128:1 ratio (1 ounce to 1 gallon) is what normal diesel user would add. So I would most likely double that 64:1 ratio (2 ounces to 1 gallon). Remember 50:1 is what typical chainsaw will run and it protects all the moving part at high RPM's and mixed with straight gasoline. Consider that thought...

Then the set I bought fully assembled. Instead of the smaller H1 Mini's like @Me78569 done I went up a full size to D2S Morimoto's which has bigger lens more light but still with the standard 35w 5k bulbs and ballast. http://shop.retroshop.us/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=2G.RAM.RETRO