Mopar1973Man

I say replace the gear case and the pin.

Still doing the same thing... 312k miles later... Still working as designed.

Yes more like 20k miles...

As far as I know all Blue Chip VP44 pumps have to be sent out to be placed on the Bosch 815 test stand. Any one can rebuild the mechanical part of the VP44 pump but as for the PSG only shops with Bosch 815 test stand can calibrate the PSG and flash the PSG with the calibration code. The last I knew Blue Chip does not have Bosch 815 test stand.

Stock is 265/75 R16 typically. The other that is little bigger is the 235/85 R16 (1mm taller but 1.1 inches narrower). Highly suggest a BHAF over any other washable filter. I've seen way too many failed engines and turbos to K&N, S&B, AFe, etc. Just not a good idea to use a washable filter in the back country dust and dirt. Splash problems I've never had an issue with it being I run flood highway, creek crossing, deep snow, etc.

Purchased from DAP and was a Midwest Injection

Maybe for you... Here is my last trip from Ontario, OR at about 9pm in the evening... Here is today from home... Still smoky but always builds up towards evening time...

I'm not sure how many are actually coming at this point? I know myself, @JAG1 and @IBMobile but that's all...

Even after two updates. The roughness is still there. Easy to detect if you hold the throttle at 1,100 RPM's then while holding the hold steady just go from level 0 to level 2 and you'll feel the engine start to skip and miss. Turn back to zero and the miss/shake is gone. @Me78569 to bad your not going to the eclipse event... You could look this over...

My Azpen A729 Android Tablet does the same thing with the missing needles. As for the crashing make sure you are up to date on the mobile app and the flash on the Quadzilla. Everything should be in the download area.

First off you never test at the battery... Only at the alternator. So the RED probe goes to the BATT stud on the alternator and the black probe goes to the case of the alternator or the negative battery terminal.

KDP Struck again... (Killer Dowel Pin) You need to pull the cam out and replace the entire gear case.

Darn... Thanks for the try though... I was hoping to find some information on the timing yet...

If you have a compression gauge and a starter you should be able to do a compression test o verify cylinder health. Injection and injection pump is a separate story. So while the injectors are out you can have them pop tested. Since there is no VP44 you need to open the gear case remove the gear or install a VP44 before the compression test.

@AH64ID Since you are tuner guru of Smarty what would be the optimal timing for cruising state? (Of course 24v engine)

Never heard of such...

Let say most of the 5th gear nut problem is depending on the person driving. Like my first NV4500 lasted 260k miles and I broke the mainshaft at the 3rd/4th shift ring. Never had a 5th gear nut issue ever. Now after the rebuild I got the fully splined main shaft so I'm good there. The other thing is most people don't know that the 5th gear nut is torqued to roughly 600 foot pounds. So all these YouTube fools out there beating the nut on with a chisel and hammer is an idiot because they never get the nut torqued properly.

I'm on my second South Bend Clutch. First one lasted 140k miles roughly and had a lot of hard and heavy use towing and skidding trees.

That's not good. Did you install a Timbo's APPS? You need to check for the 5V signal voltage to the APPS. Then check for good signal ground.

Vulcan Performance... I've got a set of his silicone boots and so far holding up good.

I would say the VP44 is shot being the P0216 code is present. Most of the VP44's tend to get stuck in full retard timing and produce excessive white smoke.

With fuel fittings I don't like to use any kind of thread sealants or tapes. To much risk of any sealant getting into the fuel system and be drawn into the VP44 and creating issues. If it makes past that it will for sure get caught in the crossover tubes and restrict flow. I've always used brass fitting which typically are self-sealing just a matter of tightening enough.

I still get that now and then... Now since I flipped that belt over 180* now its stay pretty quiet.

Need to find about $100 DVM that has a 2V AC scale. Then measure from the BATT post on the alternator and the case ground. It should measure less than 0.05 or 50 mV AC. Anything over 0.1 AC Volt is an instant fail. Just because you replaced the alternator does not mean its good. I've seen several brand new alternators come out of the box failing the AC noise test. Matter of fact I was chasing a lopey idle issue and took my alternator to be tested on the bench it was 1.1 AC volts at full load. Comparing the new alternator in the box was 1.7 AC volts at full load. I told the tech never mind I'll keep my alternator. Keep in mind my test is a zero load test vs test stand is a full load this way the fail voltage is way different. Being most people can't get the alternator at full load safely on the vehicle without causing damage.

Dang... Now both @Me78569 and @dripley are both not coming... So that means so far I only know of @JAG1 coming for sure...