Mopar1973Man

Yes. No. Doesn't matter. I can shut down wait 30 seconds. Start everything up. wait another 30 second touch power level up or down and it crashes the iQuad app. Now the recovery method I found to get back to Default tune is to shut down the crashed app. Quickly fire up the app again go in and change to default tune. Shut down the app again after waiting about 30-60 second for it to bluetooth over. Then when you fire back up it works again. Also noticed that any custom tune the app has serious trouble making connection. Some time its 3-4 try before it hooks up on custom tunes. But if you flip back to DEFAULT then it nearly instantly it pops right up so there is nasty code hanging the app up. Does nothing the tune never shows up in the list. If you repeat with the same name it says the tune already exist but nothing is in the tune list.

Let try to data log again. The last one I email mailed to myself disappeared into thin air. I can't run any custom tune now it will crash the iQuad App. As before the crash problem it did matter what tune you used it was the same problem on any level above ZERO.

Pretty sure ill check.

The whole trick is keeping the fire on the ground and keep a defenseable space around your home.

AirDog 150 and now heading to 12 years old. Still going strong. Power relay and fuse.

No. Mine is near idle range. Ill try and do a video of the display values.

Bigger the injectors the worse it gets. Stock you can't hear it or feel it. The 75HP VCOs now really produce a nasty miss. Checked a few time 0 level is clean but any level above 0 will prosuce the problem.

Ill respond to this in more depth when i get home. You'll be surprised how much you can do with 300 gallons and pencil line.

Here is what is happening for my truck. Any power level above ZERO and any tune including DEFAULT tune will do this. ZERO level is clean and smooth no issues. Reflashed my Quadzilla with the current tune and even dumped my iQuad App and reinstalled.

In my case you can shut every thing down and start the engine, iQuad, drive for 5 minutes, touch the power up 1 level and FREEZE. Has nothing to do with setting a tune or not.

Apparently, there is a serious issue here.

Exactly the same problem I'm having. I attempted to build two different tunes and any tune I build I have the same problem. Now here is how to recover back to functional. Shut down the app. Restart the app and quickly head to custom tuning and select DEFAULT tune. Then shut down the app again. Now restart and the app should function again without crashing. As long as you stay to the default tune. I'm having the same weird issue with just the standard Fueling tune. The only thing that is different I can't import my exported tunes here on the site. The import saves it to the App but doesn't display. Then if you try importing again it will tell you the tune already exist. Nothing is listed though... Hard to select a tune you can't see. Now on the default tune any power level above 0 will produce studdering issues in the 2-5% throttle range. I can hold the throttle and change levels as it hits 0 the engine runs smooth. Again if I create a tune then just changing the level will crash the app.

A peek at mine 1.5 years ago...

Even with my rebuild i asked for all the parts that were replaced. So I got to see all the worn bearings, the carbon syncros, and my broken mainshaft. Like i said before my rebuild the transmission was fully disassembled and the case was tanked then painted.

Wow. I would have stopped at the first sign of the sludge in the openings and never installed the transmission. I had Weller truck in Boise rebuild my transmission and so far I'm just crossing over 50k miles and no issues to report really. I did have some shift issue early on after the install but that was a clutch issue more so than transmission. After installing a new South Bend Clutch all shift issues went away. Still, I would have never installed the transmission if I have seen sludge inside any opening or hole. Then means that your transmission was never rebuilt or you were given a core transmission. When mine was rebuilt I could tell it was fully broke down and tanked and repainted and very clean inside and out.

Yeah I can't speak for the new 4th generation pumps. I know the raptors are junk I've got one at the house that ate the pump shaft with just the rubber seal. Weird?! I'm not fond of the adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I like the old spring and check ball they work the best. I know @Me78569 has a Pureflow pump that has zero issues. Might ask Me78569 about his...

You could have my 11 year old AirDog 150 pump that has held 15 to 17 PSI the whole time.

Might be in the same boat myself. Quad has a dead spot at 1 to 2% throttle and misses and studders. Above that it same to run normally. Unhook the Quad the problem doesn't exist normal throttle. Gotta call Spencer next...

One thing most people won't tell you that hybrid doesn't travel too far without a charge. From what I've seen is about 15-20 miles tops. Out where I'm at they will not survive even one trip to the store or drive to work it's too far for any hybrid. I'm seeing about $1,500 to $2,000 roughly. Average life span of the battery is about 100k miles. Unless you have a power plant like mine. Solar and Hydro. Zero Emissions... Then down the road from my place is another hydro power plant. The majority of Idaho power comes from Oxbow dam on the snake river. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxbow_Dam

Same here I've got 4 rolls... Tie wire is handy you can make all kinds of tools with it. Like probe tips for electrical sockets, small snap ring tips can be made. List goes on and on.

Ok I'm a bit off... BBI's are still a bit over $3,000. http://smartyresource.net/store/product/32-bbi-injector-set-stage-05-03-04/ http://smartyresource.net/store/product/13-bbi-injector-set-stage-4-20075/

Just wait... Get a 3rd or 4th gen and start planning on injector changes every 100-150k miles. Looking at around $4,000 for quality set of new injectors. If you think you can just over look that fact so many people lose an engine over bad common rail injectors. Then there are people driving around with the grid heater light on. High return flow from bad injectors kind of a check engine light of injectors. So now we whine about $1,100 for injection pumps every 100-200k miles. Then if you happen to wipe out a CR engine then look towards about $6.000 to be rebuilt.

Been I keep traveling for MoparMom behalf every other day even through nasty winter storms at temps as low as -35*F never had a single problem shifting. Now take the temperature and crank it up to as high as 115*F so far this summer and transmission temperature hover at about 160-170*F on average. Still shifting good. At least the NV4500 is cover now by an another good choice of lubricant. I fell for that scare too about how you could NEVER use any but the MOPAR fluid for years. Now to find out there are options and understand what you have to look for fluid wise. Also understand why Mopar created their own fluid line and why for both the NV4500 and NV5600 Transmission again most think its syncro the fluid was design for but actually the fluid was design around gear teeth temperatures.

Some of that you got to look at from both sides. Like I've got a buddy down here with G56 trans and using ATF+4 and having shifting issues now. So if he switches up to another GL-4 rated fluid (any name) its not going to resolve the pre-existing shift issues. Like in his case it could be clutch hydros giving some issues maybe? So being truthful about a fluid and how it working is rather hard with existing issues or outside issues impacting shift quality. Like in my case I started out with a fresh rebuilt transmission and worn clutch so my shift quality improved after the clutch replacement. This just points out not all stated issues are lubricant created. Great... I'm glad you are happy with your choice of fluid. I just want people to see there is more than just one brand of Synthetic Lubricant on the market. There are several brands on the market.