Mopar1973Man

But what if your pop pressure(s) are lower then it would take less cylinder pressure to leak. Just for an example, my old stock injectors are popping at 240 bar now but still run fine no smoke or anything but that is roughly 600 PSI lower. Lots of variables that will impact if its cylinder pressure is doing this or not. What happens if you just have a weepy injector that not sealing correctly anymore? Also, don't quote me on the exact boost numbers. Remember there is compression ratio difference between the HO (17.0:1 Ratio) and SO (16.3:1 Ratio). Like I said there is way too many factors to state an exact boost pressure that will affect your particular case.

Only difference, I kept my stock filter as a second stack filter and you'll be surprised how much junk is captured by a Fleetgaurd 10 micron that a Donaldson 3 micron missed.

I really do hate any vehicle coming at me with LED lighting. No focus of the beam it straight out blinding.

It might be time to consider a new place to live? to go through all that you've done to fix from the first flood to the second one just drowning your home all over again.

A mechanical fusible link is a device consisting of two strips of metal soldered together with a fusible alloy that is designed to melt at a specific temperature, thus allowing the two pieces to separate.

Hence why you loosen after hitting bottom. Kind of like doing band adjustments on 47RE transmission you torque to 72 inch/pounds and the loose a number of turns. Samee thing here bottom out the gear and loosen so to add slack back from bottom.

Just in the little bit that @Wild and Free posted is more newsworthy than any of the alphabet channels out there for news. How about the aftermath follow up of areas hit by fire, floods or hurricanes? Never happens. We never hear much about the folks and how there lives have been impacted or how people gather together to help out.

You'll be surprised I've seen some boxes where I turn 3 to 4 turn just to find bottom again. Then loosen 1.5 turns. That means if you doing 1/8 turns that would be 12 times of adjusting and test driving. If your doing 1/4 turns that still 6 times of adjusting and test driving. Or my way and do it once.

Nothing... I might stuff some dielectric grease in the socket.

Hmmm... Typically that is what the big boost guys are fighting with stalling. There was a member here ISX that did the calculations for cylinder pressures and found that around 60 PSI of boost you could exceed the pop pressure of the injector causing compression gases to push back. But that what I had to give for info...

From what I remember of your last post you had jacked the house up on stilts and suppose to be above the high water line. So was your house destroyed?

@jlongjohn if you wouldn't mind making an article of the bushing install?

Either it's going to be my compression is stronger or my injectors are giving better atomization. Hua? These two quotes would have me checking a few things. Between compression and fuel atomization I would be looking a bit being 40*F is nothing for a Cummins to fire up without grid heat. Last winter I was starting at -35*F without a block heater and just two cycles of the grid heater. No issues.

Basically all I do is loosen the lock nut. Then run the sector adjustment all the way in till seated. Make sure you not seated on the lock nut make sure it loose enough. Then back off about 1.5 turns then hold the adjustment while you tighten the lock nut. That's all there is to the adjustment. There is input bearing pre-load adjustment too but rarely have I've seen anyone needing to adjust that.

So far I'm very impressed and happy with my D2S Morimoto HID's still got the 5k bulbs going and no issues with bulbs so far. I would skip the LED idea. It's a very non-focused bulb with lots of scattering of the beam. Like I'm planning on retro fitting a set of PIAA LED driving lights in to replace my old school aircraft landing lights. The Morimoto D2S bulbs drown out the 100w seal beam halogen blubs. http://www.piaa.com/RF3LED

Contacts in the relay got poor and the resistance between the contact was high enough to create heat. This is one of the few reasons I unhook my grid heaters in April and hook them back up in October. There is zero reason to have the grid heater cycling on morning start. I know my truck REQUIRES grid heater at temperatures below +25*F. Above that, it's totally optional.

Typically all I do is loosen the lock nut run the sector adjustment all the way in till it seats. Double check your not seating against the lock nut. Once you hit bottom then loosen 1.5 turns then hold the adjustment with your Allen wrench then tighten the lock nut again. You are done. Much fast than turning a 1/8 turn, test drive, turn again 1/8 turn, test... Etc...

What the problem is that the cylinder pressures are high from the boost pressure so when you dump off the throttle rapidly the pressure is forced passed the injectors pintle and air/gases get into the injection lines. So as @jlbayes mentions blipping the throttle a few times this raises the line pressure up again to possibly blow the air back out of the injection lines before landing at idle RPM. This is normal for high boost engines.

Like most of you know, I don't have TV here at home. I do have a TV in the RV and watch local channels when we have a signal. What is so sickening is the important news or information is briefly covered and then quickly switch to some sort of entertainment that the newsgroup wants to place like cooking or exercise. I'm so glad to get home and not have any TV at all. Then other half of it that I can't stand is any free air TV signal you do get is nothing but black and white shows and 1960-1970's shows. Really? This is the best you can transmit? Stranger yet, I get more facts and information from you guys here than I do off any TV set...

Personally skip the brace and readjust the steering box to take up any slack. Double check all your steering linkage for slop this includes both input steering shaft and tie rods.

Typically it's an alternator issue or tail shaft speed sensor either or... I will not suggest Band-Aids. I will suggest you have you alternator bench tested.

Easier when the pressure motor is unhooked. Even better yet it better to have the turbo removed before you do this. Much easier to work on them.

You should have both ends of the wire unplugged and check ohms to ground this will show if there is a connection to ground from a pinched wire or bare wire.

Pressurize the turbo will air pressure and see if the arm moves at about 20 PSI. You can raise the pressure up to 30-35 PSI if still no movement then its rusted shut.

Did you by chance have the injectors pop tested to see if the pop pressures are near 310 bar? As injectors wear the pop pressure will fall and the timing tends to get more advanced and spray pattern get crappy. As for the EGT's I still say it going to be a boost leak issue. Another thing it could be is drive pressure leak or exhaust leak before the turbo look for soot marks on the manifold top and bottom for cracks or blown gaskets.