Mopar1973Man

You might want to read over this... Dang @Me78569 beat me...

What happened to the pop-up camper? I thought you love that idea now you move to horse trailer? Kind the same deal with me camping under my canopy for years then switching to travel trailer like to have the room and comfort... Sure ain't getting any younger... I sure do like my comfort...

We've got a real mixed bag of ages. I've got guys in the 70-80's and then the puppies from 18 and up. Doesn't matter it's just on happy family here and every gets along with each other. There are people from all walks of life retired, working class, performance nuts, you name it.

I'm enjoying my Morimoto D2S HID's. The only time I get a whiner that is clicking high beams at me is the little ricer cars that are low to the ground. Other than that awesome headlights. Great for all those nights coming home in the dark canyon roads.

Soon I'll be on that list for new seats. At least new seat foam for the drive side.

PCM swap is not needed for the NV4500 to NV5600. There is no connection between the transmission to the PCM or ECM. It's only Automatic 47RE that require the PCM.

Better off switching back to the 190*F. I'm going to install a 200*F thermostat this fall. Yes the 6.7L thermostat will fit and 200*F is available.

You can reach as high as 100 HP without much worry. RV275 injectors are a good starting point. Still in all, the bug will bite you and you'll continue to inch up in power. I've started with Stock and Edge Comp, moved to RV275's, then +50HP and Quadzilla Adrenalin, then +75 HP now. Even with my +75HP injectors and the Quadzilla Adrenaline untapped I can still reach good power and not have an EGT issue.

No prefilter. Yes, I run dirt roads too. My problem is the prefilter ends up with holes and no longer a filter because of where the BHAF rides in the heat shield. I had an Outerwears prefilter it barely lasted one year and was falling apart.

For that problem I would start with checking the alternator. Most electrical problems stem from a high AC noise issue on the alternator. Then this is not either a ECM or VP44 if you can run highway speeds. Sound like possible injector issues might either have your injectors pop tested or replaced.

All error codes and diagnostic data is stored in non-volatile RAM so it can bee disconnected for a very long time and still remember error codes. The software is all held on a PROM (Programmable Read Only Memory) this hold the main software of the ECM this will never be lost no matter how long you leave the batteries disconnected. When you leave the batteries disconnected for long term your just losing the APPS calibration. Kind of like your laptop you can pull the battery out of it and leave it unplugged for months or years and it will still boot up years later. Typically the WTS issue is a memory issue on the ECM and it's having a difficult time booting up. Maybe your batteries or connections were poor?

I can say without a doubt there are no changes in EGT's for normal daily driving and light hauling. I will mention that the spool up is a bit faster and more power on the low end compared to the 3" inch stock pipe. EGT's wise there is ZERO change.

Crank the line at the VP44 make sure there is fuel there. If so then cranking is the only way. Rare cases I've disconnected the grid heaters and given a light burst of starting fluid to get it to fire up. So while your cranking very quick spray of starting fluid typically will get it going.

Not to hijack... But could some turn the USFS in for smog violation? I'm getting smoked out here in Idaho. That is the part that drives me crazy EPA is so worried about a few vehicle running around on the planet but just the fires on the west side is enough to smoke or smog us out worse than LA smog ever was. This is been going on since later July.

Beat to the punch... Already tested the voltage drop from battery to alternator case near zero. Also tested the AC noise too.

Is the fuel squirting out of the lines or just oozing out? If it's just oozing out them more than likely the VP44 still has air in the pump. Typically it will take two rounds of 30 seconds of cranking. I rarely ever crack lines I just crank till it fires up. Typically within about 60 seconds of cranking total. If you cranking for very short burst you have the harder time getting it primed up. Every time you rest it bleeds the pressure off and the air bubble expands again.

This is the tough part about doing conversions. If you just use the ECM alone then it a PITA to diagnose issue without the PCM so you can read error codes other than that you end up guessing at what the cause of the problem is.

Here is a quicky video walking around my truck with the exhaust.

Still to this day I can get @MoparMom complaining rather quickly with the A/C. Turn it on MAX A/C high fan and get rolling by the time I reach Payette, ID from Ontario, OR I've got to turn it down. Typically it will frost up the compressor and lines just a bit. Even time I stop to eat and park near a window I can see water dripping in the front of the truck not the HVAC drain. I should put a gauge on mine and check the pressures. Been a long while since I did that...

Now you understand the push and rush on it...

15 years later and never cleaned a ground lug or ground screw. I've had my fair share of alternator issues, I think I'm on number 5 now for alternator replacement. I've only removed the battery cable maybe 5 times in the entire life of the truck now. Manual trans will show this AC noise issue as a cruise control that surges and dumps randomly. I've not unhooked a single ground lead yet for cleaning. If and when I do I will not sand the paint off the metal I'll just drive the screw back in the hole only if the screw hole is fresh clean metal If not I will relocate that ground lugs slightly. As for the ground studs those clean the threads up with a small wire brush. Main block connections as long as there no rust between the bolt/washer and the block just screw it back down. You have to remember the body of the truck was completely sprayed with paint and then the wiring just simple bolted, screwed or nutted to metal. They did not sand back to bare metal or make exposed metal. Then the truck proceeded to run 7-12 years without an issue. If I suspect a ground issue I would opt for the voltage drop test over sanding paint off the body.

Just remember when that light does come on the damage will already been done. Most low pressure lights come on at 3-5 PSI which is way too low. Even my one I got from Cummins way back when it was set for 3.5 PSI. Anything under 10 PSI is damaging. Anything under 14 PSI is not optimal. Old light you can see in the photo. Currently I'm using a ISSPro EV2 gauge with programmable warning light I've set the low pressure warning at 13 PSI.

Most likely so... Not enough sleep or coffee this morning. You'll see I was up late last night posting... It's installed... With a muffler... It so damn quiet now you have to get out and walk to the passenger side rear to even hear the exhaust. In the cab you can't hear any exhaust noise at all. You have to roll down the windows you might hear it a little bit at low speed and heavy throttle by the time you get to highway speeds you can't hear it at all. Just all wind noise. I hear more noise from the BHAF than the exhaust now. @AH64ID just for information value. The Diamond Eye muffler is a straight through design with just holes in the internal tube. Now you can see clearly there is a packing all the way down and no baffles. So it's an Absorptive Silencing muffler.

A lot of people get over zealous when cleaning grounds. They start to grind or sand off all the paint around a ground lug attempting to get bare metal contact of the ground lead to body or block metal. Be aware this bare metal now will rust quickly. The only thing is make sure that the screw is cutting into fresh metal or the stud is clean and rust free. No need in sanding off large patches around the lugs.

I got every thing now in the shop. I've laid out the exhaust system on the floor and looked at the over all size it's long that is for sure. Hopefully I get my shot today to install in my truck. Diamond Eye 4" Exhaust Aluminized with both muffler and delete pipe so I can either way. Now after asking about the Aluminized vs Stainless after talking to 3 different vendors, there is nothing to gain really by stainless. Aluminized last this long on my truck at 15 years. Stainless and Aluminized will both go the same distance as well. Now there is the 409 (IIRC) which guys buy because they can polish the stainless up like chrome nearly. The other thing I found out that Diamond Eye has the thicker gauge pipe at 16 gauge compared to MBRP at 14 gauge. Diamond Eye should last longer being it is bit thicker gauge pipe but also might affect when the drone occurs.