Mopar1973Man

I wish I could get my hands on a 12V tappet cover...

Get ready for blown tappet cover gasket... This for sure will cause a failure when the hose starts to get mushy and kink shut. I've warned several people not to use heater hose. One ended up stranded on the Alcan Highway when his tappet cover blew out because of the crankcase vent (heater hose) kinked shut. I highly suggest you get that yanked off very very soon and switch back to hard line like PVC or similar.

Well geez... You got to have deep pockets for that beast... https://www1.snapon.com/diagnostics/us/ETHOSPlus

So far I've been pleased with my OBDLink LX. If I was to do it again I would upgrade to the OBDLink MX (Bluetooth).

You missed what I was looking for. When you turn the key on does the Wait To Start come on the very instant the key click to the ON position or is there a small delay (maybe a few seconds) before it lights up then go out?

Now that is a loss of prime problem. I've got to ask does the Wait To Start light come on instantly or does it delay?

I would get ahold of @Quadzilla Power and ask him directly if there is a replacement cable for the XZT series. That would solve the mystery.

Just looking around in part books for brand names... Monroe KYB Gabriel Rancho Sachs Bilstein

He's a great guy and will be able to guide you through your problem on your transmission. France is a bit too far to go for help. Might be fun to have you place a member pin on the member's map also fill out your location in your profile so people will know. I've had a few member now that popped up in countries outside the US. Just city and country is plenty.

Most likely the tire pressures are too high. This one reason I run two different tire pressures because if I left the tires inflated for towing then the ride is really harsh when I'm not towing.

My spring mod is similar but instead of coiled like his my is a 90* tail in the center of the coil preventing the ball from sneaking into the coil.

Your injectors have to be removed from the engine and then taken to a shop to be pop tested.

Possible... Typically I noticed the miss more so during idling state.

Welcome... Err um... Mopar Man... I would start out testing the alternator for excessive AC noise.

Welcome Jeremy... The best person to get a hold of is @Dynamic he is the site transmission guy.

Personally, I think there is way too much hype for Bilstein shocks.

Here is my write up...

Youtube or Facebook both... You might consider using Facebook. Sure make logging in much easier when you have long passwords. Being I've got 32-64 character passwords I can log into Facebook then let Facebook log me into my site securely. So I only need to unlock facebook then I can log into most other site using my Facebook account. This is a huge life saver being typing long passwords on a cellphone is a royal pain in the . So either way you look at it, you need an account on either Facebook or Youtube (Google). I would say stay with Google more so. You can use your Google account also to log into the site as well. Mopar1973Man can use - Facebook, Google, Linkedin, etc.

AC voltage was what? We need to hear the results.

True they are... I had to straighten out the out of balance issue and was experimenting with higher pressure and lower pressures. Adding +10 PSI to calculated number help take the bounce out. -5 PSI helped take the cupping out of the shoulders from excessive runout on the previous wheels. They will be worn out by this fall and be needing to be replaced.

I'm running Rancho 5000 series shocks with over 100k miles on them and still doing excellent towing heavy, offroad travel, or on highway travel.

I know the feeling... I've got a spot here locally called "No Tellum Creek". I'm not telling where the creek is nor the camp spot.

Mine, I'm running 60 PSI front, and 40 PSI on the rear. Towing I just inflate the rear to 60 PSI and I'm able to handle 18,000 pounds GCW.

Test your alternator for excessive AC noise. I've got a feeling the VP44 is fine but the ECM is going south. APPS sensor has two validation switch so as soon as it goes to throttling mode it's now jumping to high idle and that it which means there is an ECM fueling map issue caused from AC noise.

This is the newest revision. The old version that Ed Grafton produced like @Me78569 said have the wires soldered to the back of the switch. Ed's design is prone to failure because of the weight of the cable pulling the contacts out of the switch. The new version removes the tension on the switch contacts being they are all soldered into a PCB. This is the older Ed Grafton series... Notice there is no PCB...