Mopar1973Man

May I ask what was the cause of the pushrod failure?

Like I'm using OBDLink LX for fuel data its not exact but darn close for the most part but gives me feedback from the ECM of the fueling map and how its performing with said fueling and timing. It's at least some data an idea of how things are working.

Thank you... I've got lots of secrets in my head. I try to post all my finding and tricks in the articls but sometimes I'm just busy and slow to update my notes... August we are having a get togeether in Catfish junction, OR for the eclipse good time to meet us.

Just unhook the two wires at the battery. Nothing to tape up not short out if you unhook the power. Leave the solenoid leads alone so not to trip codes.

That is the most important... The rest are secondary grounds like lighting and horn. Lot of sanding and scrubbing for nothing to gain nothing. Solution is easy reduce the loads on the alternator and never leave heavy loads on the alternator while idling. What happens in the diodes get hot and don't have the means to stay cool so they fail. Like so many people start there truck and leave them idle with the grid heaters cycling. This is really hard on the alternator attempting to hold a full charge at idle with 195A load for an alternator that only produces 140A at 2,000 RPM's. This is why every year I unhook my grid heaters in April and hook them back up in October when weather is cold and you require the grid heater to start again.

Like both my doors on the truck starting to squeak. The cam roller for the upper hinge was starting to rust a bit and stick. So I spray a good heavy dose of PB Blaster silicone spray on the hinges, cam rollers, and the door seals. Should make the truck quiet again for a short time. Typically I'm pretty good about keeping the oil can going on the hinges but I've been so busy last few weeks, not even the squeaky wheel is getting the grease... Just drive till the wheels fall off...

There is only one ground to worry about. The passenger side battery terminal. This is the master ground for all the computers. None of the computers get ground from the chassis or block. Are there any noise filters, extra grounds, or wiring modification done? If so remove them all and retest I'll bet your AC noise test will be higher yet and most likely failing. If the WTS light does not come on then the ECM is not booted. There will be nothing data or function from the ECM. No codes, no lift pump and starting. This is a clear sign the ECM is dead at that time. Kind of like attempting to read a Data CD in the CD-ROM without booting the computer first. There is no error codes and CD-ROM doesn't read anything.

It's true the use of direct gear in your case is producing higher MPG's. I see the same thing driving in 4th gear (direct) where the CANBus fuel is lower and EGT's are lower and my it shows as about 2-5 MPG gain. Then shifting to 5th (Overdrive) then the EGT's rise, CANBus Fuel goes up and MPG's are reduced.

I've install several FASS system but the filter are always still hanging in the damage path from the front tires. I've seen a few ranchers locally dent the filters from throwing stones from the dirt roads. All you need is one little hole and the system fails. I've also seen last winter where a FASS system froze up because of the bitter cold and was popping fuses not to mention it had gelling issues way more than my truck does. 15 years of bit cold winter down to -35*F and never gelled up once yet. This AirDog is heading for 12 years old and still pumping fuel without a single issue.

Personally I won't worry about it. We went through the same scare about going from CI-4 to CJ-4... My truck is running fine still. I really doubt oil companies would sell an oil that causes damage. It would be one he'll of class action lawsuit.

I've got mine tucked behind the transfer case. This keeps the blowing cold wind off it, out of the debris path from the front tires, also the skid plate protects the filters from road debris that might be kicked up.

Might be best to hit a salvage yard to get the right nuts and bolts. The hood nuts have a wide fender washer integrated with nut.

If your electrical is in good order no extra grounds are required. Look in at 302k miles and never added a extra ground at all. No noise issues as long as the alternator is in good condition. Again extra grounds are NOT suggested or required. Fix the actual problem being the AC noise generated by a bad alternator.

You could but it will be a bit troublesome being the bolts are on the bottom of the fender. You got to lay on the ground and bolts are most likely rusted in place and will break the clips.

During the rebuild of my 46RE he showed me the notch in the valve body plate that controls how fast the fluid dumps for engaging the lockup clutch. So like we discussed there no reason for my application but a person could open the port more and causing the clutch hit faster or have a custom plate that is smaller dump port and engage slower.

Pull the battery out. You should have enough access.

Air brake line is cheap and much more durable than cheap rubber vacuum hose. Really isn't much to the vacuum system. No you don't need dealer for any of that. Napa part store should have most everything you'd need for fittings and connector.

I remember someone mentioning that 3/4" heater hose did not fit and it was too small.

I moved you over to the Quadzilla vendor forum to hopefully get me support by Quadzilla itsself.

Like myself I'm doing website administration for few different owners. mopar1973man.com tractorfarmandfamily.com smartyresource.net dieseltrucksite.com idahoturbodiesels.com There are people the that do data entry for medical purpose up here.Beta test software or software design like at time when I feel like it I might hop on Ubuntu site and help out with beta testing software (volunteer work though). I'm sure there are companies that will pay for you test software.

This why you need to have a youtube account so you can send the video to hosting company that will host your video for you.

Upload the video to YouTube and post the link back here from YouTube.

I've been doing web management as a hobby for many years helping out folks try to keep their websites going. Now I'm trying to take it to the next level and start another business doing website management. Apparently, I've done something right to keep my own site going this far and the few others I've been working with.

First @dripley has to come to Idaho to even provide the tail whipping. But I'll hear about all the Idaho Potato jokes first. Seriously. I just spent another hour on the phone attempting to get a database backup for SmartyResource and the techs still can't provide a solid backup yet. So I've spent my evening now setting up the laptop and copying all the needed data so I can pack it with me tomorrow and be getting some work done hopefully. I'll still float in and look around but might not post much...

Some of you already know I do website management on the side. Like I know some of you know that SmartyResource is down for the past few days. I'm fighting to get the site up and running ASAP for the owner. My problem is the old hosting company servers are too small for the forum and trying to get a clean backup to transfer it all over to the new hosting company. SmartyResource will be running the same forum software as we are here. Then I've got the other local Idaho base forum I've been managing as well IdahoTurboDiesels.Com . So this explains why I'm here for a time then gone for a few days or just not posting much. I figured I would share with you all what I've been up to and doing in my spare time.