Mopar1973Man

Foot on brake = Ground Foot off brake = open A majority of the system is setup this way.

Any part store should work. Some will say go to Cummins. The problem is no matter what its about $100 to $120 sensor. They are not cheap. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB227091

I'm going to assume that like typically applied brakes should be grounded.

What size injectors are you running?

I would have to say your right the sensor is shot and failed within specs. It other words the MAP sensor reporting a valid number of boost but not out of range so it would never trip a code. Rare but it does happen. Your voltage appears correct for the sensor circuit.

I was curious about the timing setup your running. I want to compare your timing setup and see if it was close to what I was running and now gives me kind of a feel for the power curve. I know your injectors are different but should be close. This is my cruise as of right now. Timing vs rpm 1500: 17.5 2000: 20.5 2500: 22 3000: 24 Timing Max: 25 The only tweak is I'm running 5.5* of timing for cruise and cruise boost level to 12 PSI. This nets me around 20.5* at 2K RPM's. When I drop out of cruise it retards about 1 degree (fuel load timing)

Easier with the Quadzilla Adrenaline. You can actually set you fuel map below stock to set your own defueling curve that you want. Like I'm starting out at 85% of CANBus fuel and working my way up from there to 137%. I'm currently not running any wire tap at all.

Intercooler I think comes into play more so in track and racing. When you playing with big fuel and lots of EGT heat. The standard daily drive will not see any benefit to upgraded intercooler.

If you don't want that turbo I'll take it off your hands if you're going to scrap it out.

I'm running the 7 x 0.0085 (+75) SAC injectors from DAP. They flow more like +90HP because of the pintle mods that have been done to them. The only thing about these is the launching with a manual is rather lopey. With this setup, I'm running with the HX35/40 (60/60/12) and the SAC injectors are not hot at all. EGT's have been very manageable using the Quadzilla for a tuner. I've got to say thanks to @Me78569 for the last bit of help tuning.

Just remember if you attempt to loosen and then there is a leak issue air or fuel then you understand why.

Not a good sign either if the lines or over tighten its possible to distort the high pressure lines tips and the cross over tubes.

Yes @Dieselfuture is right you have to test at the alternator BATT post.

Being honest... I'm impressed, it's good power curve and 551 HP / 1055 TQ is nothing to sneeze at. I'm curious of the tune your running for this?

Again the difference the difference of a 2 line pump vs a 3 line. It only takes one WOT run down the highway to push the air out on a 3 line pump. 2 line pump can create its own cavitation air. This was documented back years ago with the old stock Carter pumps. A member from over on TDR made a video of how a stock pump could create its own air bubbles by just pump cavitation.

WOT will fix that problem.

Impressive...

One reason I love my drawstraw and AirDog. Suction tune cannot become clogged nor do I have to worry about dirt in the tank. Being the excessive flow is returned to the tank and it's constantly filtering the fuel.

Take the time and hunt the plumbing down too. Like my current Jayco has plumbing outside the RV and really prone to freezing. No way to resolve it because of the floor plan and the slide.

Because there is no return line to the tank. There is nowhere to vent off the vapor. Like an AirDog pump with the 3rd line to return fuel the Raptor's are just 2 line pumps. The regulator just routes the excessive pressure to the inlet again so it's impossible to self-prime a Raptor. The outlet has to be open because there is too much restriction on the injection pump to pass the vapor.

Absolutely. Do NOT install noise filters, add tin foil, modify APPS wiring or extra ground wires. Fix the damaged alternator... Most likely a bad diode pack in the alternator fairly common issue.

Here is a good article on this... http://www.pumpschool.com/applications/NPSH.pdf

The trick with RV power is being small enough to haul with the RV but big enough to cover the majority of what you plan on powering. The trick to remember is watts will remain the same but the 12V side will be 10 times higher amperage draw that the 120V side. For example 10 Amps x 120 Volts = 1,200 Watts = 12 Volts x 100 Amps I know this is not exact but the basics are shown. This why I limited my system on the RV to 1,200 Watts knowing the DC load will be upwards of 100 Amps. It would be a different story if this was a 24 volt system but then again the weight would be too much for an RV. Personally if I had the extra funds I would look at these for the RV, might need bigger battery boxes but... http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/t-145/

Well my A/C unit on my RV would take 3,500 watt generator minimum to even run it. So to show him size of system and what it takes to drive these devices. I'm sure he'll back down like I've done 2 camping trips now with my RV with 1,200 watt inverter, 45w solar panel no problems. No A/C, No, Electric water heater, No electric fridge. All on propane. I was able to watch TV (DVD Movies) most of the evening. Lighting is the hard part which need to be converted to LEDs.

Here are 4000 watts of an inverter, 820 Amp/hours of batteries on a 24-volt system. The batteries weigh in at a little over 1,000 pounds. I've got 400 watts of solar charging and about 250 watts of hydro power. I've got enough power to run anything device in the house except the electric stove, electric oven, electric dryer, or air condition. Just think of the maximum amount of power you need to run everything you want. at 4,000 watts I'm drawing 166 amps. So at full run could run 4.9 hours and the batteries would be dead. This number is a bit high actual run time is shorter because I've set my dead voltage higher to prevent battery damage. So you operational time is based on loads and how much battery amp hours you have. Solar/hydro just are how fast I can recharge. They way I'm set up I can live off grid quite a while without firing up a generator. Like if I knew I was going to be doing high power demand then I would fire up the generator and not wipe out the batteries. Even though we operate on the grid yet during the summer time it very possible for me to sell back the power that I'm producing. It not a huge amount but 1-3 Amps during the midday sun and still powering everything in the house.