Mopar1973Man

Morning check would be more optimal.

Nice idea... Then I would take that mount it to the fender or firewall use slightly heavier gauge wire then omit the fusible links in the stock setup.

Most believe its base on IAT temperature which is partial true the other half of the temperature comes from the battery temperature sensor under the driver side battery. With my IAT fooler on and showing 143*F I should not get any grid heater and with ECT at 190-200*F. Still in all the grid heater will still fire post starting this is because the battery temperature is below 60*F and will be used in part of the calculation.

Check both the IAT and ECT temperature at first key on in the morning to see if they match. If so the two sensors are still good. Then watch the sensors as you drive. ECT should be normally 190-200*F and IAT will be roughly +40*F over outside air temperature at full engine temperature of 190-200*F.

So simple to just take a 1/2 wrench unscrew the nut slip the wire off. Replace the nut. Do it twice a year, once in the spring (April) and then again in the fall of the year (October). I wouldn't use a battery disconnect because of the high current loading of the grid heater. It would be very possible to have a fire caused by a weak connection of the switch as the grid heaters draw 195 Amps during the initial key ON. So This is way the grid heater is directly wired to the battery because of less likely of weak connections during high load operation of the grid heaters. We are taking 195 AMP load here so it's always best to have a good solid feed of power. Any weak connection will cause huge amount of heat and possibly a fire.

Filter and air box get to be too small as we gain more power so the box starts to distort and creates dust leaks. Stock powered truck is fine for the stock box but eventually, it will still leak dust too. Mine started back at 60k miles before I even had Edge Comp or Injectors. Pull my stock airbox out and replaced with BHAF. The first filter lasted about 135k miles and 7 years. Here is the all time worse filter to own...

Because if you just disconnect the leads you still take the risk of the leads shorting out and causing ECM damage. The only way is to find two the two black/tan wires and pull them from the solenoids but most can even see the lead colors anymore. Then if anything shorts to the post of the solenoid will cause it to activate next key on. Where if you pull the orange/black or the yellow/black then you have live +12V leads that short out will possibly wipe out the ECM MOSFET's that control the grid heaters. This why I don't bother with that side and just pull the power lead to the grid heater. My way there is ZERO risk to anything and ZERO codes...

Because for the same price of a factory panel filter it will go way farther distance and time over a stock OEM panel filter. BHAF has way less restriction like the stock air filter box. So why bother with a stock air box filter that possibly leaks dust, is replaced with a low-quality washable filter, still a restrictive box, etc. Just looking at the OP picture you can see the dust settled in the leaking oil so you know the filter is not keeping up and the piston rings and cylinder walls are taking a beating. No really... Here is my post on it...

Uh no... You still have the PCM and it issues, central timer and its issues, ABS computer and its issues, etc.. So all you done is removed the VP44.

I just rebuilt my HX35/40 turbo. Not hard at all to do. DAP has a good price on the rebuild kits. Also whatever air filter you running you need toss that one away and get a BHAF.

Let me know Ibe still got the VP44 pump to shoot any pictures you want.

As long as the ECM can see connection to the two solenoid it will not throw any codes. As for disconnecting the wires at the battery the is no power to the grid heater and the ECM can call for heat be nothing happens. Any switch that breaks the trigger leads will set codes but no CEL.

Just unhook these wires that's all.

Shouldn't be. I've got a factory replacement AirDog draw straw in my shop that is also straight cut as well.

No. It won't fry the ECM. It burns the fusible link near the battery.

The only connection between the ECM and PCM basically is the CCD Network. I hardly doubt it being the PCM is required for starting the network and the ECM is considered a secondary device that just shares data over the network. You might just a poor quality sensor...

This also trips the P0380 and P0382 codes. The only way to do it without tripping codes is to pull the main battery feed to the grids. Anything that breaks the connection of the smaller trigger leads will produce error codes. I know it doesn't light the CEL but it's nice to have to deal with error codes and resetting. By disconnecting the main power lead then the ECM will still do as it pleases will no ill effects of codes or loose wires that might short out.

True. There are a safety and legal issues with sumps. Bottom draw is illegal. For me, all I'd have to do is drive over a log or rock and that sump would vanish and so would the fuel in my tank. I do go offroad quite a bit. As for the draw straw I've got one of the old ones from way back in 2006 and no issues to report and can run well below 1/4 tank without a single problem. Most draw straw issue come from people cutting the tip wrong and way too short. Take notice its a straight cut, lightly notched (less than a 1/16"), the total gap to the tank is the thickness of one quarter coin with empty tank. Do not do this will a full tank the gap will be wrong. The tank will naturally deflect away from the draw straw as you fill the tank as it empty it will pull up tighter to the straw again because of less weight of fuel being present.

Welcome to the site. It would help if you filled out your signature so we knew what we are working with. As for the AC noise what voltage did you measure and where did you measure at? Surging and going WOT seems like an ECM issue. Any error codes present currently? Did you try going back to the old sensor? What brand of sensor did you buy? (Timbo's, Wells, OEM)

That will make it a dealer or shop only oil change most people will not have the device for drawing the oil out the dipstick.

Being I'm a manual it lopes as the clutch starts to engage. I'm smaller on the injectors at 7x0.0085 (+75 HP). Then as I coast up to a stop with the transmission in neutral it lopes dropping the RPM's to like 700 RPM and bounce up to roughly 850 or so. Once I come to stop it idles right at 800 RPM's.

Can't. It will throw a P0380 and P0382 error codes if a toggle switch is added. I just remove the grid heater lead from the positive battery post. I should disconnect mine for the summer. Basically from April to October I leave the power lead disconnected for the grid heater. Any temperature above 32*F doesn't require grid heaters.

That's one of the Ram 1500 eco diesels.

Bring your truck to Idaho I'll fix it...

I've got a similar issue, not a heavy lope but there is a lope as soon as I start to launch out of 2nd gear.