Mopar1973Man

@Dynamic is an awesome transmission builder.

I would wipe everything down and clean all surfaces and reuse them. Just make sure to clean all the grit and dirt off all the parts before assembly.

I'm closing in on 300k really quick. 298k and still rolling the highways. So I've might of had a few failures (transmission, wheel bearing, etc) but nothing last forever. I'll still gladly hop on the seat and haul anywhere at the drop of a hat.

Would you be willing to document out the wiring and everything you did to make this work I'm sure there is others out there that would like to be able to do this.

This right here is how this whole mistake of Mopar1973Man.Com came to existing... I did the whole forum thing trying to figure out my first bad injection pump failure back in 2004. Then got the answer I needed. Got the pumps (lift and VP44) under warranty. Then I contniued to pay it forward. My daily notes and learning grow to the point I started building web pages and articles which started the web site in 2005... The rest you all know the story...

Educated guess... I would say the thrust washer and thrust plate are worn but when it cooled off the oil thickens and part contract a bit filling the void.

Another reason I'll stay to the OEM box... I can't see paying $700 for any steering box. I just looked on RockAuto and ranging from $150 to $300 for steering gear box. Rebuild kits for OEM box is $14 to $17 very simple to rebuild yourself. I'm only 2k from 300k miles on this steering box.

Might be helpful to data log your run with your truck and post the Quadzilla data log.

As you seen in @Haggar post he was using worm gear clamps and most likely over tighten and deformed the hose. This way his leak showed up. I'm still using the OEM spring clamps. If and when the day come I do switch to worm gear clamps you have to make sure not to over tighten the clamp and not to deform the hose. As for the pressure tester make sure to do the testing on cold engine then the coolant leak will be visible. Like on my 1996 Dodge I could smell the coolant, see I was losing coolant but never make a puddle. On a cold engine pump up the system to 16 PSI and leave it stand. After a few minutes it was dripping on the floor and leaving a wet trail all the way back to the source of the leak. In my case the intake manifold gasket was shot and the coolant was leaking down the front of the block and drying up before it hit the floor. That slow of a leak.

Shaft play you can fix with a rebuilt kit. Those are cheap. As for the crack that a problem. Darn... Now it's not so appealing... I would have to find an exhaust housing then.

Too high... 10 to 30 mV AC is good and normal... 30 to 50 mV AC marginal... 100 mV AC Fail.

I tend to hold true with good ol' OEM steering boxes. I'm coming up on 300k miles and still no leaks from the steering box and still tight. When it does start to weep oil I'll just rebuild it and readjust the box and it will be brand new again without the big price tag of a Redhead or any aftermarket gear box. What ever you do not get a quick ratio if you have oversized tires.

That's not like you to do something like that?

Depends on the design of the nozzle and clean the holes are. Then where they pop tested to tight tolerance? How about flow matching the six nozzles to close to the same flow rate too? Like from what I remember the old Edge Jammer nozzles were pretty dirty for injectors. Low quality? Poor build?

That's something we don't do here... For what ever reason we are all adults here and family like here so we truly do care and attempt to resolve or band together and help people get solutions not jibberish or the common answer "Use the search function it been answered already!" Not all issues are the same nor is the solution to every problem. Sites like CF are corporate owned and the only thing that matters is traffic and advertising dollars. Don't get me wrong we to have bills here too but we do attempt to be helpful for all the members. CF the corporate owners don't really supervise actions on the site. If they did you'd see them being more visible on the site which you don't.

Jon will let you watch he'll even show you a bunch of stuff... Just ask!

Personally that ridiculous... That's just way overkill. All that for mere 25 MPH in the snow. You can buy a snowmobile for much less and have more fun.

Watch out for Chinese knock offs that might be super cheap on Ebay or Amazon.

@martinique78 Thank you... The only advise on the lock up is to watch the tach for a second drop for 4th gear.

Ahhh... That right it not going to show. Quadzilla bases that off of road speed and engine RPM's. So displayed lockup and gear information will be incorrect.

Is it still present if you drop to Level 0 on the Quadzilla? (Quadzilla turned OFF). If so I would talk to @Me78569 he's the Quadzilla guru here. If not I would consider that AC noise test for the alternator. Could be excessive AC noise messing with sensors.

@jlbayes would you consider welding a blown seam or still stick with a used replacement?

Reduce lag of turbo and less launching smoke.

Little green dot. But be aware this is not actual lock up it calculated. Like on my truck with a manual 5 speed it does the same thing.