Mopar1973Man

Not all table are created equal... This Michelin weight to pressure table. Same sized tire and capacity... 35 = 45 PSI (10 PSI different with Michelin) 40 = 48 PSI 45 = 52 PSI 50 = 57 PSI 55 = 60 PSI 60 = 63 PSI 65 = 68 PSI 70 = 72 PSI 75 = 76 PSI Still in all this would with either table have my rear axle pressure below the 35 PSI because tire weight is only 1430 pounds (Axle weight 2860 / 2). So would a person gamble with 30 PSI at 1,430# ??? 1430# / 3042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37 PSI (Currently set to 40)

Just for fun comparing... 35 PSI 1700# = 1700 / 3042 = 0.55 x 80 = 44 PSI 40 PSI 1870# = 1870 / 3042 = 0.61 x 80 = 49 PSI 45 PSI 2030# = 2030 / 3042 = 0.66 x 80 = 53 PSI 50 PSI 2205# = 2205 / 3042 = 0.72 x 80 = 57 PSI 55 PSI 2335# = 2335 / 3042 = 0.76 x 80 = 61 PSI 60 PSI 2485# = 2485 / 3042 = 0.81 x 80 = 65 PSI 65 PSI 2623# = 2623 / 3042 = 0.86 x 80 = 68 PSI 70 PSI 2765# = 2765 / 3042 = 0.90 x 80 = 72 PSI 75 PSI 2905# = 2905 / 3042 = 0.95 x 80 = 76 PSI 80 PSI 3042# = 3042 / 3042 = 1.0 x 80 = 80 PSI I think I'll keep my math thank you... 9 PSI drop at the low side of the scale is rather way too soft for the amount of weight.

Empty tire pressures for my truck are... 60 PSI Front 40 PSI Rear Now what will it carry??? 60 / 80 = 0.75 x 3042 = 2281 x 2 = 4563 pounds on the front axle 40 / 80 = 0.5 x 3042 =1521 x 2 = 3042 pounds on the rear axle 7605 pounds carry weight My truck actually scales at about 7,400 pounds with Mom, Diesel and myself in the truck. Trailer towing 60 PSI Front 60 PSI Rear Now what will it carry??? 60 / 80 = 0.75 x 3042 = 2281 x 2 = 4563 pounds on the front and rear axle 9126 pounds carry weight (Remember the truck is rated for 8,800 GVWR) 5200 + 6084 = 11,284 pounds carry capacity. I hardly doubt your anywhere near that empty. Even doubtful with your RV. I know it big and heavy but 2,484 over GVWR...

Come on guys don't forget to hit the GOING button on the calendar... So far I only know of 2 people going. Attendees JAG1 Mopar1973Man IBMobile Declined AH64ID

Explain your jumper wire... The PDC under the hood doesn't have any ground connections except inside which requires you to split the case open. The fuse panel in the cab has no grounds that I know off. FASS fuel pressure is because the return line is either kinked shut or the ball and spring is malfunctioning.

Gasoline engines have vacuum at the manifold so all you need is worn valve seals and it will draw in small amounts of oil into to the combustion chamber.

Good luck...I don't even have a site yet I might just drive back and forth. Unknown what I'm doing as of yet. Can't spend what you don't have...

Gear ratio (3.55:1) and tire (30.4 inch tall) are perfect. With your 6 speed transmission you are the same as I am for your top two gears. I'm also running 31 inch tires and 3.55 gears. Just I'm running a 5 speed. NV4500 5th Gear -> 0.75 -=- 0.73 <- NV6500 6th Gear NV4500 4th Gear -> 1:1 -=- 1:1 <- NV5600 5th Gear Gearing and transmission are fine and nothing else needs to be done. As a matter of fact I'm towing a 31' Jayco travel trailer and have nearly the same setup just adding injectors will change the towing ability. Ttime to go up in fuel. Time for some larger injectors maybe a turbo depending on how big of injectors you jump up to. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/103-2000-jayco-eagle-296-fbs/

In my case, it would be jack up the front axle, not the rear axle. I just say leave the engine to drain a long period and most will come out. Best to leave engine to drain over night. My last oil change I left the plug out for two hours and it stopped dripping. While it's draining I check the differential fluids, transfer case, power steering, brake fluid, pump grease in all the u-joints and ball joints. Pull out my grease needle add grease to my tie rod ends. Then pull out the tire pressure gauge check tire pressure and rotate tire if needed. The run around the truck with oil can and oil all door hinges, hood hinges, door latches and hood latch, then move to the tailgate and lube the tailgate hand release and the two latches. While I'm at it adjust the parking brakes. So there is a lot you can do while its draining out.

There is an article about Bosch Certified rebuilders. You might read over that and find out there is lots of vendors but you have to know if the VP44 pumps they are selling are being tested on a Bosch 815 test stand to calibrate the PSG unit. I know DAP and Vulcan both sell certified VP44 pumps. If you got the grid heater disconnected you could have a person cranking and give "very small" spray of starting fluid to the intake and see if that aids in starting. I've seen a few truck that refused to start unless a "small burst" of starting fluid was added to aid it in getting over the priming. Sometimes the starter its self is worn out and can't get enough RPM's to start. This could be bad brushes and/or bad contacts. Bad cables I've seen a few where the cables rotted in the middle. If got another local truck with a hard starting that I'm going to assume is bad injectors. Being his injection pump I replaced myself and the fuel lift pump is new but unknown fuel pressure as of yet. Still got to verify that too.

I've seen more high mileage vehicle on petroleum oils than synthetic oils. I've had worked on several Dodge Cummins trucks with over 600k miles and more with just petroleum oils used. Like my last oil change I ran Rotella (Rosmella) 15w-40 petroleum. The best thing to do for a good oil change on the Dodge Cummins is making sure to let it all drain out. This means bringing it to full operational temperature (190*F coolant temperature) bring it home and pull the drain plug and oil filter. Now walk away from it for few hours till it stops dripping. Then install the filter and drain plug and load it back up with 2.75 gallons of 15w-40 engine oil. Oh... Just for the record I'm running the new CK-4 engine oil and nothing has changed... The engine didn't throw parts either. Almost got a 1,000 miles on this oil already and I just changed it last Sunday. As for climate I've been running 15w-40 just like all the big truck out here run. No block heaters or nothing. Just fired up and ran. Same with my truck I've lost my block heater cord years ago and never swapped oil because of cold climates. Out here you might get a weak or two of -30*F then pop right back up to +30*F weather. Like most they start the engine allow it to build oil pressure and bit of heat before rolling. If I lived where the winter average temperature was minus constantly for the entire winter I would change out for 5w-40. With all the logging trucks up here still running and running 15w-40 without a problem I'm not going to panic either.

Ummm... That might get expensive... The little gray marker is Catfish Junction...

As long as its GL-4 rated synthetic I don't think there will be any problems. Just remember that 50 weight is equal to 90 weight gear lube.

WTS only comes on for the initial first key on. After that WTS will not light again till at least 15 second key OFF event to reset the ECM. So check again.

You've gotta be there... 2nd in command not present for the 1st get together...

Does the wait to start light come on instantly? Does the lift pump run the 25 seconds after a starter bump? If the wait to start light does not come on the ECM is not booted up and brain dead. It will not start nor will the lift pump run.

Being that the Edge Sensor looks exactly like the ISSPro sensor I've got an educated hunch that the sensors are provided by the same company and Michael @ ISSPro would know where to get them and correct pressure span for the voltage.

55-65 MPH range. At 65-70 MPH it drops to constant 19 MPG on stock injectors. Like I swapped my travel from US95 and I84 to state hwy 55 and that has made my travel $20 cheap per trip also increased my MPG to the 21 MPG.

Something I learn about the new tune. You got to build from the cruise timing in the center and the build you timing map below. What I mean is like I set mine up to have 20* at 2,000 RPM at cruise state. So I've got +3* for cruise state. This means the 2,000 position has to be 17* total. Then I figured starting timing will be 14* so 17-14=3. So there will be 3* gap between each timing placement. 1,500=14, 2,000=17, 2,500=20, 3,000=23. This so far has placed me at the 20-21 MPG realm now for the last few tanks this is running on old stock injectors, level 3 on the Quadzilla and no wire tap yet. I might alter this and tip the cruise at 2,000 to 19* and the rebuild the rest of the timing map. The rest I've built this way because I'm more worried about cruise timing than performance timing. Comparing to stock behavior it really close now how the ECM does timing but now we have control of how much timing and when it applied. No. I've not uploaded my lastest tune yet... Still looking for a bit more MPG if possible. I'm close to the same I'm doing about 18-19 MPG in stop and go Boise traffic and just barely pushing 21 MPG on the highway.

Ive done plenty of compressed air. SCUBA diving and SCBA masks during fire calls. Like @Wild and Free said depends on the compressor and filter system.

Personally I wish it would export directly to device storage that the google drive which is PITA. I've got a update coming soon on my tune. Timing tweaks. Still bench testing.

Just to kick this forward in the Activity Stream. This is coming up really soon so time to start showing if you going or not... Go over to the calender and hit the proper button for going, maybe or decline...

ECM doesn't sense current draw. Only voltage.

No. It a voltage issue. The ECM is sensing a voltage problem in the EGR circuit. Nothing to do with sooting up. It the fact that the ECM is seeing a voltage out of range. Either shorted to ground or open lead.

Facebook sales are too risky in my book. Kind of like Craigslist sales too...