Mopar1973Man

Yes... I hate to say it my +75HP injectors from DAP did this. They turned out to be carboned fouled. I'm in the process of sending them back to be looked at. Mine was much worse it would drop to 500 then surge to 1,000 RPM and continue till you stopped. Then idle at a perfect 800 RPM. Then if you launched again it was prone to stalling out.

Don't forget the other bigger tools... Bigger hammers, bigger come-a-long, etc.

I wonder how much dust the oil is going to collect?

Jack it up by the frame. Allow the axle to hang barely. Remove the tires. Remove the shocks. Then remove the shims.

@Me78569 is right. Make sure to rehook the MAP sensor then you should be able to just unplug the Quadzilla module.

Which APPS sensor are you using? So many people adjust the APPS sensor wrong or too high creating issues. Before I can advise more II need to know which APPS sensor you are using.

I tend to agree it's much easier to build the auto than attempting to convert to a manual.

P245A is a EGR voltage issue. https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/3rd-gen-engine-drivetrain-2007-up-114/code-p245a-158708/#post1585136

Might talk to Michael @ ISSPro Gauges he might be able to answer this.

Just sent @Dynamic a PM to get his attention.

Seriously I'm just a true stock suspension I've never modified mine at all. Basically just remove your leveling kit and return to stock.

Always best to have pre turbo EGT than post turbo EGT.

Not sure of the mileage on them at the moment. No. Black wall on both sides. As for the wheels they are not exactly what I wanted. But... They were cheap (traded for fixing a friend's well pump). Now at least the wheels are true compared to my last set of wheels at least 2 has excessive runout. So they might not look pretty but they straight and didn't require new tires right off.

I'm not a fan of Toyo or Cooper tires. I've ran Coopers for about 1/2 a year and ended up giving them away because they are just too heavy of tire. Toyo has this problem too the carcass is very heavy and eats away at the MPG numbers. They might be a strong carcass for offroad but terrible for on highway MPG's. Both Toyo and Cooper in 265's had poor winter performance very slick tire. 235/85 R16 on stock 2nd gen steel 16x7 wheels. This is what I got left... Just rolled in the yard...

Stock basket is still present untouched. Draw straw is not inside nor near the stock basket. My straw is in the open space of the tank without any reservoir or basket. Return line from the engine is still fed to the stock fuel basket. My AirDog return is in the filler neck away from the draw straw. My straw tip is only the thickness of a single quarter (coin) to the bottom. I've gone several times well below the 1/8 of tank and touched empty a few times without much issues.

Like myself, I'll go back with Hankook Dynapro ATm again. These Hankook Dynapro ATm wore like iron and still going strong with all the round trips to Boise, Idaho.

Sorry, it will squat like an old Ford truck as soon as you hitch up. Very common for level trucks to squat when they tow. Now if you left the front stock with the stock rake then it would be level when hitched. You could overcome the squatting issue with air bags but it will make the ride very harsh with the rear suspension tighten up with air bags. The part I hate is all the level trucks I meet on the highway at night towing are blinding you because the headlights are now too high. Empty you can see my rake... Loaded with 10,000 pounds of hay... Automatic level

Fuse alone is risky. I'm not sure what the max limit of the MOSFET is. So its best to add the relay then put a good 10-15 amp fuse in. The only thing I could think of is get a brand new pump and measure the working load amp draw and make the fuse just maybe 1-2 Amps more. Got to remember as winter comes on the fuel thickens then the amp draw goes up. Even worse if there is frozen water and locks the rotor then the amp draw goes through the roof. Like last winter I seen a FASS 150 blow 20 Amp fuses left and right because of frozen water in the fuel.

This is one reason I love my old school draw straw (without the basket). My return is the filler neck so the foam issue doesn't occur. Never have this issue at all. Still, to this day don't have any quarter tank issues either with a 12 year old AirDog 150.

Got to remember people are quick to complain about a product but rarely do they report good service or products.

Just send him a PM to get his attention to the post.

The man you need to talk to is @Dynamic he is our site transmission guy.

Try trading for a 2001 harness? I know there are a few things different from year to year.

Most likely data crash on the CCD network being the mismatched modules.

That is because stock lift pumps don't have protection relay. So when lockup motor occurs the high current burns the MOSFET in the ECM. As for the WTS light that is caused by high AC noise from the alternator damaging the RAM in the ECM causing boot errors that make it longer to boot as it keeps retry.