Mopar1973Man

Ok gang... I'm going to share a few tidbit of information for advance OBDII tinkering. If you happen to have a OBDLink or ELM327 tool you should be able to tag along here. I will have to give a bit of thanks to @Me78569 for getting me started with the Bluetooth terminal on Android. Once I had that I could directly communicate with the OBDLink and pass commands to it. So starting out I passed the command... ATSP0 This basically tells the tool to communication with the detected protocol of the vehicle ours happens to be ISO 9141-2 protocol. After that I passed the command... 0100 Which happens to be PID Mode 01 with the PID 00 which tells the vehicle to report back which ODBII PID are available. It returns back. 41 00 98 3A 80 14 41 00 90 18 80 14 At this point the hexadecimal bytes you want are 98, 3A, 90, 18... So now you need to take these 4 bytes on convert them to binary. 98 = 1001 1000 3A = 0011 1010 90 = 1001 0000 18 = 0001 1000 So now lay it all out in one long string. This is counting 20 hex (32 dec) from left to right. 1001 1000 0011 1010 1001 0000 0001 1000 So you have counting only the high bit (1's)... 01 - MIL Status Light 04 - Engine Load 05 - Coolant Temperature (11) 0B - Manifold Pressure (12) 0C - RPM (13) 0D - MPH (15) 0F - Intake Temperature (17) 11 - APPS Sensor (20) 14 (Unknown yet) (28) 1C - OBD Compliance should report 05 hex. (29) 1D - (Unknown yet) NOTE: (number) is decimal... Just for the human side for counting placement. ECM/PCM use the hexadecimal values only. Now if you want to add any of these as a custom gauge. Module/Header: 486 OBD Mode: 01 PID Number: (Any of the above will work use only the Hex number not the decimal) Priority: Leave on High Equation: Look it up on Wikipedia at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/OBD-II_PIDs

Still got the OEM water pump yet at 263k miles. @joecool911 is right these are very simple water pumps with the 2 bolts and a o-ring. Just make sure to clean the hole up with a bit of sandpaper and grease the hole slightly to prevent damage to the o-ring during install.

Don't get me wrong in my daily travels I ran thee truck down to 1/8 of tank many of times but still traveling to my destination. As for around home I'm always getting fuel at 1/2 tank and keeping it filled up.

Torque converter lockup issues is a alternator problem. Most likely what killed the last VP44.

If there is still priming issues I would loosen the fitting at the V44 inlet and verify there is fuel at the VP44. Now there is just the air pocket in the pump at the worse. As for the nut on the injection lines I've been known to spin then all the off so you looking at the exposed the joint. That way you can see if there is pressure or dribble of fuel. Yes its possible for VP44 to fail without codes.

Basically a sudden rise of RPM during a shift. Kind of like being slow to release the clutch on a manual transmission.

That's the thing I get tired of... Price hikes for a part because it grease-able or otherwise and sold by a known name on Internet like Quad here for this example and the price goes high for the parts but you can by the very same part for less. Not like Quad is manufacturing ball joint I'm pretty sure is common part just re-boxed. Kind of like by a Mopar oil filter it just a repainted Fleetguard oil filter that is re-boxed again.

At least in my case with 46RE was the torque converter was going south. No problems with bands or clutches. As for my flare it was from 2nd to 3rd gear. I would get a hold of Dynamic and talk to him.

Something to consider is checking the fan clutch operation. I wonder if the fan didn't lock up fast enough and coolant temperature rose rapidly increasing pressure and blew off some excessive pressure. As for coolant and flushing... I've been using well water and creek water for the entire life of my truck. Never used distilled. Call me crazy but it's true. As for coolant I use unversial coolant like NAPA or Prestone. Going on 263k miles so far so good. The radiator is still spotless inside including the block too. I'm not sold on the whole Special coolant craze. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/cooling/cooling-system-flush-r332/

Another thing I'm looking at 8s 5he common Joe that is driving to and from work that is less than 20 miles I would have to say the 50 SAE is much better MPG wise than 75w-85 because there is way less drag.

Normal. GPH flow rate is calculated since Cummins ECM does not provide a GPH flow rate. Spits based off of MAP sensor values. As for calibration it has be done the same day. Best to fill do long haul on the interstate and then fill again the same day. Idling will skew you number. Also remember to check the speedometer and odometer for accuracy.

Like today I was paying attention to when I throw gears. I typically throw gears near 2,000 mostly under. Next gear up ends up landing near 1,200 to 1,300 range. Normally accelerate light in the throttle. Now if I was pulling for power yes wind it up tighter more towards 2,500. The RV has some weight but rolls rather easy. Comparing to Dave with his huge 5th wheel that stands another 4 feet higher than travel trailer. So etween him having such more wind drag and more weight I can see him running much higher to rev it in the torque band.

Normally I run more in the 1,500 to 2,000 bracket. I tend to be close to you Katoom in gear usage. Like most of the winding canyon roads I'll use 4th because I can work with exhaust to control corner to corner speeds. Flat ground running I typically run 5th at 60 MPH typically my ST tires are only rated for 65 MPH. As for perimeter I'm just bit higher I limit to 1,000 flat ground. Grades is not different with speed, rpm, and perimeter come into play on which gear, speed etc is used. A rise in temperatures is sign of inefficient driving style or pushing excessively hard.

I don't know why? Final gear is basically the same on all Transmissions. 47re, nv4500, or nv5600.

I've got enough power to pull the RV as low as 1,200 as a absolute bottom below that the engine stuggles way too much.

Right at 53 MPH I'm doing exactly 2,000 RPM in 4th gear which puts me right on top of my torque curve again. Hence why my 50 MPH limit in 5th.

5th gear mostly for all speeds above 50 MPH. Below that I'd used 4th gear.

I've got another shot at towing the RV. With current weather of 70*F and some gusty cross wind running 60-65 MPH I only seen 150*F after 100 mile run.

Grab a bottle of industrial degreaser from Home Depot it will clean it right up. Much stronger than Simple Green.

Exactly.

Like I got warned once already by a local deputy... I've not had a speeding ticket in over 20 years now. Last speeding ticket was for doing 63 MPH in 55 MPH zone with the 1973 Dodge Charger. After working with the county sheriff for both Idaho and Adams Counties and then with Riggins EMS and Salmon River Fire Dept. I've seen my far share of deaths and ugly crashes so I'm not breaking any speed records here. Most of these top MPH are passing vehicles the 83 MPH was passing a double trailer semi truck. Like during my warning the deputy was reading me the list of things he could get me for but I countered with "I didn't want a accident so I picked up the pace during my pass to make it safely." So after seeing all my ID's and checking me over I was released with a warning to set a better example for others on the highway. As for high speed testing not many people are long haul on the interstates for miles and miles. Most hop on get close to somewhere and hop off. Even my use of the I84 is typically less than 60 miles or less. Basically jumping from Ontario, OR to Caldwell, Nampa or Boise and jumping off. Then when I'm done hop back on return to Ontario, OR. US95 is a much nicer highway and better speed and road conditions. Idaho 55 can be rather dangerous depending on when your on the highway. Friday or Sunday could be rather busy with all the fallout from Boise to McCall.. Now the real test for me is going to haul the BigTex trailer into the back country from 1,800 feet elevation to close to 7,000 feet elevation on a road with speed limits of 15-25 MPH. Grades are much steeper than all the paved highway grades most of them are in the 12-16% bracket for the steepest runs. That will put on more stress climbing slow and steep on a forestry dirt road winding around in the mountains. There is no wind to cool it down at that point...

Residential speed limit -15 MPH City / Town Speed Limit - 25 MPH Highway - 45 to 65 MPH Interstate - 80 MPH Problem is that both interstates are at least 2.5 (I84) to 5 hour (I90) drive from me. So speeds higher than 65 MPH are not typical for most of Idaho. This is normal for my state and location. As for you down there near the I84 you jump on and off it all the time. I avoid using interstates typically... As for logged top speeds... You should of seen the Mustang rolled on its top last weekend. Not pretty but people attempt to drive fast through here and lose the battle. Number 10 for my area that has rolled it or crashed in a corner this year already. So... Looking at a map north is I90 and south is I84 everything in between is 45-65 MPH speed limits. So all this talk about high speeds isn't going to happen. But... Steep climbing will happen really soon I'm just trying to gear up for firewood season after the rains stop.

I'm considering that too. I might figure out a way to cover the bottom of the truck to keep cold air from blowing on the transmission. Now seeing like today towing my BigTex 70TV with the lawn mower and weed eater was enough to bring transmission temperatures to a whole 110*F by 10 miles. Optimally I would say 130-160*F roughly would be a good temperature range optimally. At least the oil is hot enough to push moisture out and thinner causing less drag. I'm wanting to see summer temp really bad now. So far transmission temps are typically so low that the needle bare moves or tops out at 130*F.

If I had the cash for bigger panel... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-Solar-265-Watt-Polycrystalline-Solar-Panel-GS-P60-265-Fab2/206365796 That would handle all my electrical needs easy and still be charging. Even my current 45w Harbor freight setup is still more than enough to hold the batteries at 13.2 volts while watching TV all day long. Also powering the fridge, water heater, and water pump when it does cycle on. I would like a bit more charging power but even with the 45w still no problem. Last trip out I was completely boondocking with no hookup just the solar panel. Just remember I've only got 400w (eight 50w panels) on a entire two story house with 4,000w of inverter and been living this way for more than 20 years now. So it comes down to how much storage do you have and how much money you want to put on solar panels.

I agree if your constantly seeing temps above 220-230*F then I'd be looking at fast coolers or pump and external cooler.