Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Only for those few minutes of startup. After the cylinder temperature and coolant rises to operational temperature the environment is no different than summer weather. Cylinder temps are the same because of coolant being at 190-195*F. Just the incoming air is much colder which winter front typically aids in keeping the bitter cold out. The only thing I can see that is need is a quality Pour point Depressant to keep the fuel from gelling up. -
Cetane I look at from a different view angle.For folks that run a lot of interstates and high speed driving might gain slightly from high cetane fuels because it can burn fast enough for high RPM's. So for my self and typically much slower speeds I see better gain from lower cetane fuels. But remember if you in winterized fuels now and add Opti-lube on top you driving the cetane even higher. So from summer stand point might be optimal but from a winter stand point might not be. As for HFRR score Opti-lube does have the highest rating. Like if you look up the Worlds Largest Diesel Engine it has a redline of about 120 RPM's but produces 100,000 plus HP. The fuel it uses is like liquid tar. The cetane is extreme is extremely low but the BTU's are extremely high with a very slow RPM rate. Just food for though...
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Man, you don't seem to be having much luck at all from chasing oil leaks to now exhaust leaks. On a cold engine this will only work for short time you can mix a heavy batch of soap and water in a spray bottle. Start the engine and spray down all the joints looking for your leaks. Once the manifold gets hot the soap won't work. But it will give you a minute or two of idle time looking for leak possibly.
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First off do not stick anything in the nipple of the crankcase vent to gain leverage. It will cause damage and break the nipple. Second it's a standard thread item so twist it counter-clockwise to remove. The rubber seal is what holding it tight. Use both hands and rag to gain some grip.
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If you read on the Opti-lube they at least provide a HFRR score test compared to all other products... http://opti-lube.com/downloads/intertektesting.pdf That there is a sign of lower BTU content... As cetane go up BTU's go down. Like I know already Chevron fuel locally is rated at 45 cetane so adding Opti-lube will reduce your HFRR score which is good but also would lower BTU's of the fuel which is bad. So when cetane is raised typically BTU's are lost. Sample of ASTM testing labs cetane scale. (Cennex Fuels) So that's the difference between Opti-lube an 2 cycle oil. It the cetane. 2 Cycle Oil is a natural cetane reducer where Opti-lube is a cetane booster.
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Not out west here. But several have reported "low sulfur" fuel available in the back east. I'm only typically in Idaho, Oregon (Biodisesel). I'm not a long distance traveler. Let say I've never been east Minnesota and that was over 20 years ago since I was in MN.
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The ultimate way is to do a compression test. Then you know exactly the health of each cylinder. Then there is the blow by manometer which will tell you the summation of all blow by and might not detect a bad cylinder. The tea kettle is the simple test. Then just looking to see if it blowing oil. Those are the methods I know...
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Basically in a nutshell as long as the blow by isn't bad enough to blow the cap off the valve cover and it's not ejecting oil out the breather tube then just keep on driving. Enjoy!
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This is my truck... Totally normal...
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Simple test is called the tea kettle test. Start the engine and leave it idle. Now unscrew the oil cap and just place it in the hole. If there is too much blow by the cap will dance right out of the hole. Normal blow by it will just lay there. I've seen some where the owner went to unscrew the cap and it was shot out of his hand. That is serve blow by issues and the engine requires compression test and most likely rings.
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Pictures... Come on Nick this is worthless without pictures...
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Hot wiring the VP44 like this you are eliminating all the ECM and sensors as a possibility. So being the VP44 is stand alone unit now when you hot wire it should start if functional. Since it's not starting it presumed dead. This why BlueChip posted this test it eliminates all the possible thing like vehicle security systems, fuses, bad ECM, sensor issues, bad PCM, etc.
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Might be worth doing a fluid change if there is metal stuck o the end of the sensor magnet. I'm going to assume the magnet in the pan must be full.
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Might try another scan tool. As for the fuel pressure that is actually getting too low for the most part. 14-20 PSI is the unofficial normal span. 10-13 is marginal being the overflow valve isn't opening and cooling the VP44 electronics very well. Below 10 PSI is a fail by even Dodge or Cummins standards. The only other thought is to test for excessive AC noise out of the alternator. Typically normal alternator produces only 0.01 to 0.03 AC volts. When didoes get tired or brushes get crappy then it will rises above 0.05 by the time you reach 0.1 AV volts other issues start to fail like ECM's and VP44. So measure the AC voltage at the BATT terminal of the alternator with a DVM that has a low AC volt scale like 2V AC or 200mV AC.
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I'd say scan for codes and check fuel pressure.
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Here is the article now...
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Crankcase Vent Modification for 24V Dodge Cummins Trucks People been asking for me to redo this article so here it is. Supplies you'll need... 1 stick of 1/2" PVC pipe (minimum of 57" long) 3 - 1/2" PVC elbows slip to slip 1 - 1/2" PVC elbow slip to NPT (male or female) 1 - 1/2" PVC straight connector slip to NPT (male or female) 3" piece of 3/4" heater hose 2 hose clamps 1 Small can of PVC glue Hacksaw Sharpie black marker Tape measure Can of spray paint 1 Zip tie 6" long Cut measurements 3" Heater hose 4 1/2" front down pipe 2 1/4" front cross pipe 24" long pipe 5" rear cross pipe 20 1/2" rear down pipe NOTE: These measure are my final cut measurements. I suggest cutting a tad long and adjusting as you see fit for your truck. So at this point you should have all your materials to assemble. You should assembly your cut pipe and fittings dry without glue and test fit everything. While test fitting be sure to remove all plastic cuttings from the ends of the pipes. Also when test fitting be sure to bottom out all pipes into the fittings. In the supply list I list PVC elbow and a straight connector (male or female) this is totally up to you. You can do either way as long as you have a male and female connection in the end. Now during my test fitting I was very careful to get the front section of pie back far enough so its not in contact with the upper radiator hose. On the rear section you have to be careful of the angle of your down pipe. I've got mine resting on the very tip of the bellhousing. Now that you fairly happy with your fit. Take a Sharpie marker and mark all the elbow positions with a fine line from the elbow to the pipe to note position. This way you can glue the pieces back together in the proper angles. When gluing all the pieces together be sure once again to bottom out all your pipes into the fittings. At this point you will want to stuff your 3" piece of heater hose on the front pipe. Need at least 1" of heater hose on the PVC pipe for clamping. Now take a rag and a bit of paint thinner or lacquer thinner and wipe all the oil and grime off the pipe assembly. Now take a can of spray paint of the wanted color. It's best to get a spray paint that is chemically correct for plastics. So you should have a completed Crankcase vent pipe for your truck now. All you have to do is lay it back up on top. Make sure you have your 2 hose clamps on before installing. Slip the heater hose over the crankcase vent nipple. Using the one zip tie tie the rear cross pipe to the top of the hoist ring. Carefully slide the down pipe down and screw on to the rear fitting. Opps. the Paint was completely cured.
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Lengths of 1/2" PVC pipe 20 1/2" 5" 24" 2 1/4" Length of 3/4" heater hose 3" More on the article I'll be creating...
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Sensor might be failing. Would be a good idea to test that against a mechanical gauge to verify. It could be a difference in fuel too how it was winterized. Still I would verify against a mechanical gauge to verify accuracy.
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Even on the manual side of life with a NV4500 I've never had a 5th gear nut issue and the transmission still shifts great. I have replaced one clutch since OEM. 258,000 miles and still rollin'...
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Might check the bottom of the manifold for oil. Open the throttle butterfly and look straight down at the bottom of the manifold. If there is any oil in the bottom then you have a blown plenum gasket.
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As for pump labels most them are reported back east yet. Low Sulfur Diesel should not be even produced at this point for highway use. As for the ATF usage... Yes that is ash build up... Yes.. ATF is high in ash content.
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The best guy to talk to in Dynamic here on the site he's one of our Tranny Gurus. https://mopar1973man.com/profile/2504-dynamic/
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Where I live with the mountain roads and offroad use. I've manage to spill over 1 full gallon engine oil right into the fan. I've managed to spill about 1/2 gallon panic stopping on the highway for deer. So the whole easy hang in the front will no solve the actual issue. The best solution is to pull the 24V tappet cover and put a 12V cover on. Never worry again about it.
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Skip the miller tool part. But the wiring diagnostics are what you got to watch. Do you have any other codes? Spitting and sputtering is not a transmission or speed sensor issue sound like a engine issue. What is your fuel pressure at idle and WOT on the highway? Any other error codes?