Mopar1973Man

Vulcan Big Line Kit Vulcan Big Line Kit was one of the best fuel system BOMB's I've done. I've down lots of research on what pump and fuel line kit to buy. The biggest thing was to find a fuel line kit that replaced all the factory banjos a plumbing. Be aware that Geno's Kit does not replace any of the banjo bolts or any of the plumbing forward of the factory lift pump. Also, Geno's kit is only 3/8" hose. Strange but true Vulcan Performance produces the Geno's kit for Geno's. So why do an incomplete job just get the Vulcan kit. It comes will all the fittings, hose, sealing washers, electrical, etc. Now as you see in the thumbnail above there is a piece of 1/2" Vulcan line compared to a piece of 6mm Dodge OEM line. There is no way to more enough fuel in a small fuel line like that. As for the electrical, you can tell Eric that you going to either install the factory styled Carter pump (Campaign Pump or OEM Pump) and he will send you the extension wire with the proper plugs. If you decide to install an FASS, generic Carter, Holley, Etc. He can send an extension wire with the factory plug on the one end and ring terminals on the other. Now as you seen before you tell Eric about the pump he will make sure you get the proper fitting for it too. There are 3/8" NPT and the metric threads. Since I'm still running a factory style LP pumps it a good way to show the change of fuel pressure with just the Vulcan Kit. This is with a new lift pump in both test cases. Running Mode Factory Lines Vulcan Performance Starter Bump 14.0 PSI 15.0 PSI Idling 13.0 PSI 14.0 PSI Cruise 65 MPH 10.0-11.0 PSI 12.5-13.0 PSI WOT 7.5 PSI 12.0 PSI

How To Improve MPG's There is a lot of people now that are feeling the pinch from the fuel station when your seeing $5.00 a gallon and higher prices for fuel. But there is several things you can do to gain a bit of a edge and and make it affordable to continue with life. The biggest factor is speed if you slow down a Dodge Cummins gets better MPG hands down every time. 45 MPH Statistics ScanGauge II Display Speed .................................... 45 MPH RPM's..................................... 1,308 RPM's MPG's..................................... 26.8 MPG Horsepower ........................... 27.7 HP (At flywheel) GPH......................................... 1.67 Gallons Per Hour A-Pillar Gauges Boost....................................... 0 PSI Pyrometer............................... ~500*F 55 MPH Statistics ScanGauge II Display Speed .................................... 55 MPH RPM's..................................... 1,589 RPM's MPG's..................................... 18.1 MPG Horsepower ........................... 50.0 HP (At flywheel) GPH......................................... 3.03 Gallons Per Hour A-Pillar Gauges Boost....................................... 2 PSI Pyrometer............................... ~600*F 65 MPH Statistics ScanGauge II Display Speed .................................... 65 MPH RPM's..................................... 1,880 RPM's MPG's..................................... 14.8 MPG Horsepower ........................... 74.6 HP (At flywheel) GPH......................................... 4.39 Gallons Per Hour Efficiency of a Dodge Cummins is related direct to pyrometer temps and GPH. Basically the faster you travel or the more drag you put on a engine you must compensate by adding more fuel to keep the speed constant. So this is why you see a increase in pyrometer temp on a hill or when your towing. But at the same time the GPH rises as well during these loads as seen above. But to so you math to calculate MPG from speed and GPH will shock you. Mile Per Gallon Calucation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) = Miles Per Gallon Gallons Per Hour Calculation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Miles Per Gallon = Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) Speed Calculation Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) x Miles Per Gallon = Speed (Miles Per Hour) Now we will use the examples above to calculate MPG form fuel flow and speed. 65 MPH / 4.39 GPH = 14.80 MPG So since Pyrometer is a direct connection with fuel usage it only makes since to try and reduce you Pyrometer temps as much as possible which in turn reduces fuel usage. A rule of thumb I created that will hit 20+ MPG every time is.. Mopar1973Man's Notes:Keep your pyrometer under 600°F and keep you boost pressure under 5 PSI. As seen above with the 45 MPH and 55 MPH speed the drag or load was reduced by slowing down. As seen in pyrometer temperatures, horsepower produced, reduction in fuel usage, etc. These effect the MPG number directly. Like in the 65 MPH its consuming 4.39 GPH but now looking at 55 MPH at 3.03 GPH and 45 MPH at 1.67 GPH. That a huge reduction in fuel usage. Speed And Time A lot of people are telling my fables of... "I get better MPG numbers at 70-75 MPH than at 55-60 MPH". This is untrue and unproven. Normally this is said because of the factor of time. Most people are in a hurry. Well I'm going to show difference in time and speed. 10 Mile Trip 45 MPH 55 MPH 65 MPH 75 MPH 85 MPH 12.0 Mintues 10.8 Mintues 9.0 Minutes 7.8 Mintues 6.6 Mintues 100 Mile Trip 45 MPH 55 MPH 65 MPH 75 MPH 85 MPH 2.22 Hours 1.81 Hours 1.53 Hours 1.33 Hours 1.17 Hours 1,000 Mile Trip 45 MPH 55 MPH 65 MPH 75 MPH 85 MPH 22.22 Hours 18.18 Hours 15.38 Hours 13.33 Hours 11.76 Hours Efficient Driving Behavior Excessive speed decreases fuel economy. In addition, excessive idling, operating the vehicle in the wrong gear and accelerating and decelerating rapidly all consume extra fuel. It has been estimated that proper driving technique can account for a 30% variation in fuel economy. The following is a short list of behaviors exhibited by those drivers that consistently obtain good fuel economy. Simple behaviors, like coasting to a stop instead of staying on the accelerator until the last minute and then braking hard, add up to significant fuel savings after thousands of miles. 1. High average vehicle speeds with minimum time spent at maximum vehicle speed 2. High percent trip distance in top gear (90+ % recommended) 3. High percent distance in cruise control 4. Minimum percent Idle 5. Minimum service brake or exhaust brake activity 6. Number of Sudden Decelerations 7. Service Brake Actuation's/1000 mi Vehicle Speed Management The keys to managing the vehicle’s road speeds involve maintaining the lowest reasonable cruise speeds possible and minimizing time spent at maximum vehicle road speeds. The vehicle’s road speed has a tremendous effect on fuel economy. As road speed increases, so does air resistance and rolling resistance (to a certain extent). Thus, the power required to move the vehicle down the road increases. For example, at 55 mph, you may get 23 mpg; at 65 mph, you'll get 18 mpg; and at 70 mph, you'll get only 16 mpg. Anticipating Change The key to effective cruise operation is anticipating changes that may occur while driving on the open road. Maintaining a high field of vision and establishing proper following distances is a good start. Drivers should also do the following: 1. Anticipate changes in traffic and road conditions 2. Avoid abrupt stops or rapid changes in vehicle speed 3. Minimize use of service brakes (plan ahead) Cruise Control Operation Cruise control can be a great equalizer. While some of the very best drivers may still be able to obtain better fuel economy without using the cruise control, cruise control in general can make every driver better than average. UPDATE! July 18, 2008 - Mopar1973Man's Notes... Here is a few tips I found in my travels that work every time. 1. If you know the road conditions like narrow windy roads. Don't try and travel the road at speed limit. Back down to a speed that you can set your cruise control for and never cancel it. If you must hit the brakes for a corner you traveling to fast any ways. Being that every time you decelerate for a corner then accelerate back to speed you can loss up to 0.1 to 0.2 MPG fro every time you do it. 2. When traffic permits try driving slower or take back roads to reduce speed. Like here in Idaho there is no minimum speed limit law. So your permitted to drive as slow as you wish. The only laws we have is if we are holding more than 3 vehicles we must pull over and allow traffic to pass. 3. In city traffic try to find a travel plan that allows you to travel with the least amount of stops. Also try to avoid heavy traffic that might leave you idling for long periods. Rock-Solid Rule The most efficient drivers get about 30% better fuel economy than the least efficient drivers. Shifting Techniques Proper operating techniques result in the lowest number of engine revolutions per mile to maximize mpg. Constant operation below 1600 rpm significantly reduces fuel consumption. Follow two general rules: 1. Maximize the percentage of time in top gear. 2. Use the full operating range of the engine before gearing down. Rock-Solid Rule The most efficient drivers get about 30% better fuel economy than the least efficient drivers. Rock-Solid Rule Above 55 mph, each 1 mph increase in vehicle speed decreases fuel economy by 0.1 mpg. Operation in Hilly and Mountainous Terrain In rolling terrain, use a light throttle and allow momentum to carry the vehicle over short grades. In hilly and mountainous terrain, where possible, use the engine’s entire operating range before gearing down. When cresting steep grades, use gravity to bring the vehicle back to the desired cruise speed. Vehicle Power Requirements In the simplest of terms, you burn fuel to make horsepower, and you use horsepower to overcome all of the forces that are trying to retard or hold back the truck. So, a truck that rolls down the road with minimum drag will use less horsepower and consume less fuel. The power required to maintain a given road speed depends on the sum of the following forces: 1. Aerodynamic Drag 2. Grade Resistance 3. Tire Rolling Resistance 4. Engine Accessory/Drivetrain Losses Mopar1973Man's Notes: Oversized tires have a higher rolling resistance than smaller tires. Also street radial tires have less rolling resistance that a off-road tire. Aerodynamic Drag Aerodynamic drag is the result of forces (pressure imbalances) acting on a vehicle as it passes through the air. The magnitude of the forces acting on a vehicle depends on speed, frontal area and external shape. Aerodynamic drag is the most significant contributor to vehicle power requirements above a speed of 50 mph. As the following graph shows, aerodynamic aids can have a major impact on vehicle fuel economy on an interstate duty cycle and very little impact on an intercity duty cycle. Rock-Solid Rule Tires make biggest difference in mpg below around 50 mph; aerodynamics is the most important factor over 50 mph. Mopar1973Man's Notes: Lift kits that raise the body of the truck higher greatly increase the aerodynamic drag! Tire Rolling Resistance Rolling resistance results from the internal friction of a tire as it deflects (flexes) during motion. Energy spent generating heat in the tires is energy that does not contribute to moving the vehicle. Cooler running tires are more fuel-efficient than tires that run hotter. Complex rubber compounds, advanced casing construction and enhanced tread designs have led to new standards in tire performance. Tire rolling resistance is the second most significant contributor to vehicle power requirements. Tire rolling resistance is influenced by multiple factors: 1. Vehicle Speed 2. Load/GCW 3. Inflation Pressures 4. Tire Construction / Tread Type / Depth 5. Ambient Temperatures 6. Road Surface 7. Vehicle Tire and Axle Alignment Rolling resistance is the second largest consumer of power on a truck. The type of tire, size, width and tread design have a sizeable effect on fuel economy and performance. Fuel efficient tires have demonstrated gains as high as 2-3 mpg. Tread Depth and Pattern According to Bridgestone, the tire tread accounts for 60–70% of the tires’ rolling resistance. Not only do the tires differ in rolling resistance when new, but as the tread wears, the rolling resistance of the tire changes. A 7/32 tread wear represents ~10% reduction in rolling resistance (5% better mpg) compared to a new tire. Rib tires at all wheel positions will provide greatest fuel efficiency. Tread pattern is important because lugs have deeper tread (more rolling resistance) than ribs. If we take a new ribbed tire as the standard, a new lugged tire is less fuel efficient by about 6%. A worn tire is about 7% more fuel efficient than a new tire. UPDATE! July 18, 2008 - Mopar1973Man's Notes... Here is some pictures to look at... Surprisingly... In the first picture the Michelin LTX gain me +3 MPG roughly because of tread face is smoother and the tire weight is nearly 20 pounds less. This reduces rotational mass and rolling resistance. Then when you look at the difference in the second picture the Big O XT will beat the Cooper STT hands down because it even lighter than the Michelin LTX but the tread face area is reduced. I've found that most all 235/85 R16 tires tend to be of a load range E design. As you can see in the 3rd picture the width of the tire is reduced but the radius is basically the same... So lighter tires with a smooth tread pattern save more fuel than heavier tire with a aggressive pattern... Tire Inflation Pressure Proper inflation pressures critically affect tire performance. Underinflation can detrimentally affect tire performance and durability. Specifically, it: 1. Reduces fuel economy 2. Increases tire wear rates 3. Creates irregular tread wear 4. Reduces casing durability Mopar1973Man's Notes: Over inflation will not improve MPG much more. But it will wear the centers out of the tread face quickly. Intake and Exhaust Restriction An engine that is starved for air (intake restriction) or unable to expel exhaust (exhaust restriction) will lack power and waste fuel. The extra fuel burns inefficiently at best because it takes air to completely oxidize the fuel and extract all of the power that it contains. Mopar1973Man's Notes: BHAF and Straight Piped Exhaust as really good way to gain MPG's! Engine Operating Temperature (Coolant and Lube Oil) Low coolant temperatures indicate an engine that is too cold for efficient combustion. Fuel liquefies on the cold cylinder walls and fails to burn. Of course, excess heat causes engine failure. Lube oil below the ideal temperature is more viscous and harder to pump. Oil above the ideal temperature is too thin to lubricate properly. Either way, the engine suffers. Coolant and lube oil operating temperatures can contribute greatly to fuel efficiency. Typical cooling system operating temperatures are above 180°F. A 0.4% fuel economy loss is associated with every 30°F decrease in temperature. Mopar1973Man's Notes:Typical Cummins truck will run between 190-205*F coolant temperature. Lubricants While the efficiency of drivetrain components is largely fixed by design, gross efficiency losses can be minimized through proper selection of lubricants. Synthetic base lubricants are manufactured in the laboratory to exhibit superior high temperature stability and low temperature fluidity. Since these fluids are created to exhibit less thickening at low temperatures, pumping losses are reduced and substantial reductions in spin losses can be realized at low operating temperatures. Test results indicate no significant difference in engine efficiency between synthetic and mineral base lube oils at normal operating temperatures. Since the synthetics are more expensive and, in an engine crankcase, are subject to the same contaminants as mineral based oils, they may not be cost effective. All oils thicken at low temperature, causing increased fuel consumption. The synthetic oil is less affected by temperature. This makes synthetic oils more fuel efficient at lower ambient temperatures. Driveline Components The high temperature stability and low temperature fluidity of synthetic lubricants make them ideally suited for drivetrain components. In this environment the lubricant is not subjected to combustion byproducts. This means the lubricant, with its higher oxidation resistance can last substantially longer. Drain intervals of 50,000 to 100,000 miles more than offset the higher purchase price of the lubricant. Dynamometer and on-highway vehicle testing have demonstrated significant benefits in fuel economy. Weather and Seasonal Conditions You can’t control the weather or the seasons, but they definitely affect your fuel economy. Running only on sunny days with moderate temperatures is very impractical, but you have to take the weather and seasonal variations into account when checking fuel economy. Ambient Temperature Air becomes more dense as temperatures drop, which increases air resistance. For every 10° F drop in temperature, aerodynamic drag increases by 2%. Thus, fuel efficiency will drop by 1%. Overall, fuel economy tends to be higher in the summer than the winter. According to North American Truckload Fleet Data, driving in the summer increases fuel mileage by 8 to 12% over driving in the winter months. Temperature also affects the tires’ inflation pressure. Tire inflation tends to fall when the temperature drops. Running tires low on air pressure in hot weather is more of a safety issue than a fuel economy problem. And heat is the tire’s worst enemy. For safety and economy, check inflation pressures frequently with an accurate tire gauge. When seasons change and temperatures fluctuate, increase the frequency of inflation pressure checks. Wind Headwinds and crosswinds can significantly increase aerodynamic drag and reduce fuel efficiency. For every 10 mph of headwind or crosswind, mpg is reduced by nearly 13%.You cannot cheat increasing wind resistance. Rain and Snow Precipitation such as rain or snow increases rolling resistance because the tires must push their way through the water, slush or snow on the pavement. Also, water is a more effective coolant than air, so the tires, transmission lubricant and axle lubricant operate at cooler (less efficient) temperatures. Rolling resistance and drivetrain friction in light rain increase fuel consumption by 0.2 to 0.3 mpg, per SAE testing. Fuel Blends While blended fuels provide better startability and protection against fuel gelling than standard #2 diesel, fuel efficiency decreases. “Summer” fuel improves mileage up to 3% more than “winter” fuel. Mopar1973Man's Notes: Most Fuel additives, injector cleaner, cetane boosters, high cetane fuels and anti-gel greatly reduce the BTU value of the fuel. 2 Cycle Oil is one of the few additives with a high BTU content. Also winterized diesel fuel has a considerable loss in BTU's over summer fuels. Here is a graphic display of pyrometer temps versus MPG's. These are rough measurements and will vary from truck to truck. But it is a good guideline. UPDATE! June 2, 2009 - IAT (Intake Air Temperature) Relationship Mopar1973Man's Notes: I've found that IAT temperature has a direct bearing on MPG numbers. My findings point out that warmer IAT temperature will produce better MPG number versus colder temperatures. Once the IAT temperature rises above 100*F or about 60*F outside temperature you'll see radical change in MPG's. The reason being is that colder air is more dense and requires more fuel to keep the balance but producing more HP/TQ but reverse this and warm the intake air and the air is less dense requiring less fuel to burn, also burning easier because the air is pre-heated and easily reaches the auto-ignition temperature. Then the colder the air is the more wind drag you have at speed. Warmer the air the less wind drag you have so this is part of the reason why summer MPG's are better.

HFRR Values Of Diesel Additives Ranking Additive HFRR Score Improvement Over Base Fuel Blend Ratio Doze Oz per 35 Gallons Desired Engine Manufacture Assoc Desired <460 Standard US Standard <520 Baseline Untreated ULSD #2 Diesel Fuel 636 1 2% REG SoyPower Biodiesel 221 415 50:1 86.9 2 Opti-Lube XPD 317 319 256:1 17.5 3 FPPF RV, Bus, SUV Diesel/Gas Fuel Treatment 439 197 640:1 7.0 4 Opti-Lube Summer Blend 447 189 3000:1 1.49 5 Opti-Lube Winter Blend 461 175 512:1 8.75 6 Schaeffer Diesel Treat 2000 470 166 1000:1 4.48 7 Super Tech Outboard 2-Cycle TC-W3 Engine Oil 474 162 200:1 22.4 8 Stanadyne Lubricity Formula 479 157 1000:1 4.48 9 Amsoil Diesel Concentrate 488 148 640:1 7.0 10 Power Service Diesel Kleen+ Cetane Boost 575 61 480:1 9.3 11 Howe’s Meaner Power Kleaner 586 50 200:1 22.4 12 Stanadyne Performance Formula 603 33 427:1 10.5 13 Used Motor Oil Shell Rotella T 15W-40 5,000 miles used. 634 2 200:1 22.4 14 Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant 641 -5 427:1 10.5 15 B1000 Diesel Fuel Conditioner by Milligan Biotech 644 -8 1000:1 4.48 16 FPPF Lubricity Plus Fuel Power 675 -39 1000:1 4.48 17 Marvel Mystery Oil 678 -42 320:1 14 18 ValvTect Diesel Guard Heavy Duty/Marine Diesel Fuel Additive 696 -60 1000:1 4.48 19 Primrose Power Blend 2003 711 -75 1066:1 4.20 Products 1-4 PASS both Engine Manufacture Standards & Gov't Standards Products 5.9 PASS just the Gov't Standards. These products provide minimum protection. Products 10-19 FAILED both standards. These products are NOT SUGGESTED for use in your vehicle. Bosch Standards Mopar1973Man Notes: Remember the above test for 2 cycle oil was done at 200:1 Ratio. But at 128:1 ranks much lower in HFRR so it will pass both Engine Manufacture & Gov't standards at 128:1 ratio. Update - September, 19 2007 Blind Research study done by www.dieselplace.com Here is the threads... http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177728 http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=178848 Here is the PDF file to download. Please read this document it has a lot of good information! Diesel fuel Additive Blind Testing PDF File This proves that all my research is on score. 2 cycle oil is a prefect fuel lubricant and WILL reduce the HFRR of fuel below that of all common additives on the market. Update - January 3, 2009 Here is Bosch testing of fuel... Bosch Testing of Fuels on VE, VP44, and CR Fuel Systems Now US ULSD is at a 520 HFRR score. Untreated diesel fuel could score above 600 HFRR Bosch VP44 injection pump with a passing grade at 400 HFRR. I'm fairly sure that 128:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil exceeds the 400 HFRR score. Now US ULSD is at a 520 HFRR score. Untreated diesel fuel could score above 600 HFRR Now Common Rail Engines passing grade at 460 HFRR now a 200:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil is very close to this score.

Fuel/Air separation system By: Sam Martin - AKA: SamIAm @ CumminsForum.Com The principle of fuel/air separation used by Fass and AirDog uses a fuel soaked filter media to provide a barrier through which fuel flows easier than air. The design provides a path of least resistance on the inlet side of the filter for the air to follow. This is accomplished by porting the top of the filter housing on the inlet side of the filter. This is what FASS and AirDog have done with their systems. I believe AirDog has gone a step further by providing an additional port (small) on the filtered side in the event that some air would get through the filter. A basic drawing/illustration of their systems can be seen at http://www.freepatentsonline.com/6892710.html And looks like this The benefits seen from providing your engine with vapor free fuel typically include 1) increased fuel economy. 2) Decreased emissions 3) increased horsepower and torque. Check out pureflowtechnologies.com for a good write up on the effects of air in diesel fuel. I built a test model from a standard fuel filter housing bought at the farm store. The inlet and outlet are both 1” reduced to 3/8” hose barb. I put a ¼” NPT port in the top of filter housing on the inlet side. In the picture below you can see a port in the side of the inlet. That port was not tested for effectiveness in removing vapor. Although I think it would work. I drilled & tapped another port through the top of the flange to use as a return line. I then installed a 3/8” pipe nipple about 3” long in the outlet to use as a down tube in the center of the filter canister. The filter housing with an extra port drilled and tapped in the inlet and 3/8 pipe nipple threaded into the outlet as a down tube. The port I tested for the return line is actually drilled vertically through the flange on the filter housing and is not visible in this photo. This is the bench model less a few (borrowed) parts. To develop a system like this one needs to know a few things about the fuel demands of the particular vehicle you are putting it in. (thanks to some help from Michael Nelson) I have a 2000 Dodge 2500 24v CTD with peak demand being about 28-32 GPH (gallons per hour) of fuel and I wanted no less than 12 PSI @ WOT (wide open throttle). My truck is not too far from stock L ….yet J I found from bench testing (backwoods as it may be) there needs to be as much fuel as used at full demand (WOT) also flowing back to the tank to carry the air/vapor with it. So I needed a total 64 GPH @ 12 PSI. It is important to measure peak fuel flow needed at the pressure the system will see @ peak demand (12 PSI) in my case. If you set up the metered return flowing 32 GPH at a higher pressure, the fuel pressure will drop at full demand and the return volume will decrease rendering your system less than optimal if not completely ineffective. I used a Raptor 150 GPH pump for my setup and installed it according to instructions. It comes with a ½” line kit to go from the tank to the pump, then from the pump to the filter housing. For the return line I drilled and tapped the back of the stock filter housing to accept a banjo bolt connection, using the connection that was originally on the suction side of the stock lift pump. I removed the fuel heater and drilled through the housing as near to the top as I dared. The only thing I don’t like about this design is that I haven’t figured out how to put a down tube in this apparatus since it is built from a water separator housing equipped with an up tube. It still works although I’m still considering options for improving the design. After drilling and tapping the hole I cleaned the filings out of the housing and re-installed the heating element. I then used the original supply line with the quick connect (Dorman fitting) for the return line. I had to move the line forward a bit to reach the filter housing. The next step was to tie the return line into the tank. I had cut the steel line in front of the tank for experimenting so I ran a 3/8 fuel line from there. The best is to tie into the filler tube or the auxiliary connection on the tank module. The systems you can buy are set up to tie into the filler tube but only because the auxiliary ports vary in design and/or placement on any given model year and would make it harder to provide a kit to match the vehicle. For metering the return fuel flow I put a valve near the end of the return line. It would also work to put one on the filter housing instead of in the line. I adjusted the pressure on the pump as well as adjusting the valve until I got about 40 GPH @ 12 PSI. The return flow should be calculated to your fuel demand and desired pressure if you want optimal performance without taxing the pump any more than necessary. I wanted to go a little over 32 GPH just to be on the safe side. After hooking everything up, I adjusted the pump to 16-17 PSI with the truck idling so at peak demand I see about 12 PSI. The pump still has a lot of adjustment left if I wanted to turn it up for a greater fuel demand... Soon

Water Hammer Effects After being on several other forums and seeing people damaging mechanical and electric gauges from water hammer and not protecting them from the effects of water hammer. Some are even calling this effect "Fuel pressure Hammer." I've always suggested a needle valve because they are cheap at $8 bucks and allows you to adjust the damping for your gauge.However, let me post a video for you here to watch to explain the water hammer This will give you a good feel of what is going on with the gauges. Now remember the injection pump turns at 1/2 the rate of the crank but fires all six injectors in 1 360* turn of the gear. So let say your cruising at 2K RPMs so the injection pump is turning 1K RPMs but fires 6,000 times a minute. This is why you really don't see pressure change like my video, but since the frequency of the valve open/close causes a buzzing noise to mechanical gauges. Furthermore, the irrigation system is much higher pressure compared to lift pumps, but the same effect happens just on a smaller scale. Now you're wondering how to do this set up properly. Here is my setup on a Vulcan Big Line Kit(Old School). The left is the stock fuel filter housing and to the right is the Bosch VP44injection pump. Notice that all the senders, switches, and gauge tubing are on the other side of the needle valve. I suggest to be as far as possible from the VP44 in my case would be under the stock fuel filter housing. The farther from the source of water hammer the better your gauge is protected from water-hammer! So for you guys/gals with AirDog, FASS or similar without the stock fuel filter it would be best to tap back by the fuel pump. I'm also seeing a lot of people suggesting grease gun hoses for protection from vibration. This is another forum myth running around the internet. Grease gun hose will not protect a gauge or gauge sender from water hammer vibration. As for engine vibration, it's not the cause of the gauge sender damage. Grease gun hose with isolate the gauge sender from getting a good ground and providing an accurate signal back to the gauge making the gauge inaccurate. I highly suggests installing a needle valve and directly stacking the sender right on top this will provide water hammer protection and also keep a solid ground for the sender. Here is a video on how to adjust the needle valve. .

Design Concept The 2 cycle oil concept was developed for LSD (Low Sulfur Diesel) designed trucks. (Pre 2007 model year) WARNING! DON'T USE 2 CYCLE OIL IN A ULSD DESIGNED VEHICLE! DON'T USE 2 CYCLE OIL IN A VEHICLE WITH A DPF! SUGGESTED NOT USE 2 CYCLE OIL IN A VEHICLE WITH A CAT! Mixing Ratio Under/Over Dose. 1989 - 2002 Dodge Cummins (1st Gen, 2nd Gen 12V, and 2nd Gen 24V) 128:1 Is the suggested amount of oil to add to the fuel. 1 ounce of oil for every 1 gallon of fuel. Overdosing will result in loss of performance and MPG. I've tested as low as 105:1 with out a loss. Beyond 100:1 ratio will result in a performance loss. 2003 - 2006 3rd Generation Cummins Common Rail 200:1 ratio is suggested maximum with 3rd Generation Common Rail Cummins engines. Don't use more than 200:1 ratio or reduced power will result. 1989 - 2002 Dodge Cummins (1st Gen, 2nd Gen 12V, and 2nd Gen 24V) 100:1 128:1 200:1 Maximum Suggested Minimum 2003 - 2006 Cummins 3rd Generation Common Rail 200:1 200:1 256:1 Maximum Suggested Minimum Not measuring proper amount of oil to fuel. Mixing With Other Additives Injection Cleaners Anti-Gels (Pour Point Depressants) Under/Over Dose of fuel additive with 2 Cycle Oil. Mixing with 2 Cycle Oil with a poor lubricant Overhead Computer Vs. Hand Calculation Weather Changes Winds (Headwind or Tailwinds) Road Conditions Speedometer/Odometer Errors 2WD / 4WD Operation Changes In Fuel Quality Winter Fuels (High Cetane >45) Summer Fuels (Low Cetane <45) Off Road Fuels / Farm Storage Overall Quality Of Fuel Changes In Operation Of The Vehicle Speed Load Weight & Towing In Town and/or Highway Operation BOMB's & MOD's Overall Maintenance / Existing Failure Injectors Air Filter & Fuel Filter Tires Condition / Proper Inflation Brake(s) Dragging Clutch / Torque Converter / Transmission Sensor Failure / Performance Pre-Existing Abuse

Electric Fuel Pressure Gauges I know a lot of people enjoy the idea of having an electric fuel pressure gauge so there is no fuel inside the cab of the truck. Most people get through the first year trouble free and no issues happen. But did they? Electric gauges are prone to the same failures like mechanical gauges. The only difference is mechanical fuel pressure gauge you can audibly hear the gauge buzz when the water hammer is occurring on a mechanical fuel pressure gauge. Most electric gauges are electronically dampened so you never see the pulses. With electric fuel pressure gauges you might take on damage to the sender and not notice any problems. Then again if you compare against a mechanical gauge you might find out serious differences. There is a lot of people buzzing on the forums saying fuel pressure gauge senders are failing from engine vibration. This is not true. The fuel pressure gauge sender is failing from water hammer pulses created from the injection pump. The Design So let me show what I've done and why I did this design. First off I contacted Eric at Vulcan Performance and had him quickly produce the bracket and fittings for me. What this does is absolutely rules out the vibration angle. But there is another reason why I had the bracket made. Knowing the problems with sender failures I need a place that I could access the fuel pressure sender quickly and be able to tap in a test gauge. Now with the remote bracket you have a very easy place you can screw in a test gauge and verify the fuel pressure gauge sender function and see if its accurate. You'll also notice in the picture I've used air brake tubing from the sender back to the tap point. Air brake tubing is inexpensive and available at most NAPA part stores. Air brake tubing is rated for about 800 PSI. The length of air brake line is 5 foot in my setup. I was trying to give as much distance from the water hammer source which is the injection pump. Now another thing I opted for this go around is the Push To Connect fittings. This makes changing tubing or removing tubing fast. Just push the collar back and light pull the tubing out. My tap point is like most Vulcan Big Line Kits where you have a Push Lock Tee Fitting in the center of the hose. I came out of the tee with a brass elbow then stacked on the needle valve, ISS Pro fuel pressure snubber and a push to connect fitting. Now the needle valve only purpose is to cut the fuel flow in case of an air brake line failure. It impossible to actually use the needle valve solely as a snubber. Since ISSPro EV2 gauges always reset to zero and then pop up to pressure so you never could adjust the needle valve to dampen the pulses properly. So that's why I kept the snubber after the needle valve. So with this setup I'm capable of getting the fuel pressure gauge away from the water hammer source. I've given the fuel pressure gauge sender a fixed mounting bracket to be screwed into and not flopping around the engine bay on the end of grease gun hose that does nothing. The air brake line give distance from the source of water hammer so given it time to fade possibly in the distance of travel. A easy access test port for tesrting the sender to a mechanical gauge. Why? Everyone knows I had DiPricol mechanical gauges for 10 years now. Never had a failure with them till 10 years my pyrometer started to get flaky so why risk it just time to replace them. So I opted for electric gauges to see if I could over come all the fuel pressure gauge failures. I chose ISSPro EV2 Gauges for my truck on this go around. ISSPro has been around a very long time and I will have access to replacement parts anytime I need them.

Diesel Cetane Rating I'm still seeing a large amount of people that want to continue adding cetane boosters to the 2 cycle oil this is not required. Today diesel fuel is approximately 43 - 47 cetane number. Please check over on the MSDS page. Cummins Cetane Requirements for 1st, 2nd and 3rd Gen Trucks A Cetane rating of 40 is recommended at temperatures above 32 degrees. A Cetane rating of 45 is recommended at temperatures below 32 degrees. There is no benefit to using a higher cetane number fuel than is specified by the engine's manufacturer. The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." This quote underscores the importance of matching engine cetane requirements with fuel cetane number!!! Mopar's Notes: So adding cetane boosters are not going to improve the performance of the engine and/or fuel. Cetane improvers modify combustion in the engine. They encourage early ignition of the fuel. They encourage premature combustion and excessive rate of pressure increase in the combustion cycle. Mopar's Notes: Look at the materials they use in most cetane boosters. Mineral Spirits, Xylene, and Naptha none of these chemicals are even close to the diesel fuel family. They also have very low flash points like gasoline! Every one of them are used for degreasing and cleaning solvents. Cetane Number is a measure of the ignition quality of a diesel fuel. It is often mistaken as a measure of fuel quality. Cetane number is actually a measure of a fuel's ignition delay. This is the time period between the start of injection and start of combustion (ignition) of the fuel. In a particular diesel engine, higher cetane fuels will have shorter ignition delay periods than lower cetane fuels. Mopar's Notes: Cetane booster tend to advance the timing of ignition. Hence the ignition knock that you hear. The lower the cetane number the less ignition knock you'll hear. Also the flash point and the auto-ignition temps of the fuel is reduced greatly. Cetane number should not be considered alone when evaluating diesel fuel quality. API gravity, BTU content, distillation range, sulfur content, stability and flash point are very important. In colder weather, cloud point and low temperature filter plugging point may be critical factors. Mopar's Notes: All of the cetane boosters on the market tend to reduce the BTU content of the fuel. Hence it reduces the MPG and the HP/TQ numbers. Sulfur content is been reduced national to 520 HFRR (<15 PPM Sulfur) which mean less lubricity of the fuel. Cetane boosters tend to de-stabilize the auto-igntion point. Go back to my Chemical definition page and look at the auto-igniton temperatures of the different chemicals. Here is a sample usage of the graph... Dark green = #2 Summer Diesel Light green = #2 Winterized Diesel API Gravity API gravity express the gravity or density of liquid petroleum products devised jointly by the American Petroleum Institute and the NIST - National Institute of Standards and Technology. The measuring scale is calibrated in terms of degrees API. Degree API Specific Gravity Weight (lb/US gal) (kg/m3) 8 1.014 8.448 1012 9 1.007 8.388 1005 10 1.000 8.328 998 15 0.966 8.044 964 20 0.934 7.778 932 25 0.904 7.529 902 30 0.876 7.296 874 35 0.850 7.076 848 40 0.825 6.870 823 45 0.802 6.675 800 50 0.780 6.490 778 55 0.759 6.316 757 As you can see as API Gravity goes up the BTU's go down because the fuel is less dense and contains less energy per unit.

MSDS Sheets and Information Diesel Fuel Additives MSDS Sheets Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement + Cetane Boost Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost Diesel 911 - Diesel Fuel Additive Power Service Products FAQ AMSOil Master MSDS Index Page Cetane Boost Additive For Diesel Fuel Diesel Concentrate Fuel Additive Cold Flow Improver Schaeffer's Master MSDS Index Page Diesel Treat 2000 Diesel Treat Winter Turtle Wax Marvel Mystery Oil MSDS Lucas Oil Lucas Upper Cylinder lubricant Stanadyne Master MSDS Index Page Performance Formula Lubricity Formula STP STP Diesel Fuel Treatment Howes Lube Howes Lubricator Diesel Treat Diesel Fuel Specifications and MSDS Sheets Chevron Phillips Chemical Co. - http://www.cpchem.com TDS Sheet Diesel Test Fuel Specifications Summary MSDS Sheets Diesel 2007 ULSD (7-15 ppm) Emission Certification Fuel No Sulfur (<3 ppm) Diesel Test Fuel (Developmental) Cenex Energy - http://www.cenexenergy.com TDS Sheet Master TDS Index Page #2 Diesel Specifications #1 Diesel Specifications MSDS Sheets Master MSDS Index Page #2 Diesel Fuel #1 Diesel Fuel 2 Cycle Oil MSDS Sheets Phillips 66 - http://p66conoco76.conocophillips.com TDS Sheet 2 Cycle Oil - Philips 66 Injex MSDS Sheet 2 Cycle Oil - Philips 66 Injex Walmart SuperTech Unverisal 2 Cycle Oil -http://www.pennzoil.com/ MSDS Sheet Walmart SuperTech Unverisal 2 Cycle Oil SuperTech Outboard 2 Cycle TCW-3 Engine Oil -http://www.pennzoil.com/ MSDS Sheet SuperTech Outboard 2 Cycle TCW-3 Engine Oil

BTU Values for fuels and chemicals Fuel Type BTU's 2 Cycle Oil 138,000 BTU / Gallon #2 Diesel Fuel (40 Cetane) 133,000 BTU / Gallon #2 Diesel Fuel (45 Cetane) 129,000 BTU / Gallon #1 Diesel Fuel (53 Cetane) 126,000 BTU / Gallon Conventional gasoline 116,090 BTU / Gallon Propane 84,250 BTU / Gallon Ethanol 76,330 BTU / Gallon Methanol 57,250 BTU / Gallon Mineral Spirits 19,000 BTU / Pound Xylene 18,651 BTU / Pound Benzene 18,184 BTU / Pound Acetylene 21,502 BTU / Pound Naphthalene 17,303 BTU / Pound Naptha 15,000 BTU / Pound ASTM Labs Grading Scale of Diesel Fuel So is it possible that any kind of cetane booster / injection cleaner containing these chemicals can IMPROVE you performance? It's impossible. They have a considerable reduction in BTUvalue and extremely low flash points like gasoline. Please take the time and look up your favorite additive in my MSDS listing. Furthermore, for those of you that are switched to BIO Diesel / Ethanol fuels (Gasser). Take notice that both fuels produce less power compared to the Dino version. So it will reduce your fuel mileage some... The higher the BTU value the higher HP/TQ number and MPG numbers you'll net from your vehicle. So this also proves that cetane booster will increase the cetane level for sure, but it will decrease the BTUs and HP/TQ... This explains why in the winter time when they increase the cetane to 45 or better the MPG decreases. It because the BTUs were lost with the cetane booster added to the fuel. So this proves without a doubt a 40 cetane provides more power than45 cetane fuel. Quick Story... While I was at the Dyno when I got my results above. A friend of mine ran a very popular brand cetane booster in the main tank mix with the two-cycle oil at 128:1. When he ran the dyno on the two cycle and cetane booster, he lost about 15 HP/30 TQ from it. So he switched over to his auxiliary. Tank and ran just the two-cycle oil. The result was he gain back plus about 5 HP.So increasing the cetane level of your fuel doesn't mean you gain power it actually will decrease it!

Introduction I've been adding two-cycle oil to my diesel fuel for about 110,000+ miles. So far, I've found outthat it has improved a few things like engine noise is reduced; fuel mileage increased, andknowing the fuel system is being lubricated is always a plus! I've been adding 128:1 ratio every time I fill up with fuel. So if I pump 20-25 gallons, I'll add a20-25 ounces of two-cycle oil It makes it 128:1 ratio of fuel to two-cycle oil This is relatively lowratio and with not cause any harm engine as far as I have known. There is another reason why I'm adding two-cycle oil to my fuel. It because of EPA changingthe sulfur levels in the diesel fuel. This will reduce the lubricity. Knowing that Bosch VP44injection pumps are a touchy subject you might as well add oil to the fuel. More Information on ULSD... First, I want to concentrate on the loss of the sulfur and why this is important to you. Sulfur isan Extreme Pressure (EP) lubricant. It is regularly added to lubricating oils and greases toincrease the lubricity and to raise the amount of pressure that the lubricant can handle beforethe lubricating molecular barrier begins to break down. Sulfur has always been a vitallyimportant factor in providing lubrication to fuel injection pump, fuel injectors, and to lesserdegree engine valves. The reduction now being made takes on-highway diesel from less than 500 ppm to fewer than15 ppm, which for all practical purposes eliminates sulfur as a lubricant in the fuel. Sulfur is a... Extreme pressure additive. Applications under extreme pressure conditions rely on additives.Lubricants containing additives that protect against extreme pressure are called EP lubricants,and oils containing additives to protect against extreme pressure are classified as EP oils. EPlubrication is provided by a number of chemical compounds. The most common are compoundsof boron, phosphorus, sulfur, chlorine, or combinations of these. The compounds are activatedby the higher temperature resulting from extreme pressure, not by the pressure itself. As thetemperature rises, EP molecules become reactive and release derivatives of phosphorus,chlorine, or sulfur (depending on which compound is used) to react with only the exposed metalsurfaces to form a new compound such as iron chloride or iron sulfide. The new compoundforms a solid protective coating that fills the asperities on the exposed metal. Thus, theprotection is deposited at exactly the sites where it is needed. AW agents in the EP oilcontinue to provide anti wear protection at sites where wear and temperature are not highenough to activate the EP agents. Unusually heavy loading will cause the fuel temperature to increase beyond the effective rangeof the anti wear protection. When the load limit is exceeded, the pressure becomes too greatand asperities make contact with greater force. Instead of sliding, asperities along the wearsurfaces experience shearing, removing the lubricant and the oxide coating. Under theseconditions, the coefficient of friction is greatly increased and the temperature rises to adamaging level. Testing Fuels Lubricity There are several methods of determining lubricity in fuels. The most common are: Ball on Cylinder Lubricity Evaluator (BOCLE), Scuffing Load on Ball Lubricity Evaluator (SLBOCLE), and High Frequency Reciprocating Rig (HFRR). The HFRR has emerged as the world standard and has been adopted by the ASTM and all of the engine manufacturers as the de-facto standard for measuring lubricity of fuels. HFRR ratings are counter-intuitive with the lower number showing better lubricity than a higher number. On an HFRR test the number given is a measurement of the scar diameter (microns) produced during the test. The larger the scar diameter, the lower the lubricity, the smaller the scar the better the lubricity Here is a few ASTM HFRR Standards... Product Sulfur Percentage Sulfur ppm HFRR Rating High Sulfur Diesel #2 0.5 - 2% 5,000 - 20,000 ppm 300-390 HFRR Low Sulfur Diesel #2 0.05% 500 ppm 350-500 HFRR Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel #2 0.0015% 15 ppm 520 HFRR Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel #1 0.0015% 15 ppm 520 HFRR In the matter of Lubricity the ASTM after many years of discussion, has set its standard at HFRR 520 for diesel fuel as a minimum. Amount of lubricant in diesel fuel at 1 Gallon and 35 Gallons of ULSD diesel fuel. Product Sulfur Percentage Quantity Of Lubricant (35 Gallons) Quantity of Lubricant (1 Gallon) High Sulfur Diesel #2 0.5 - 2% 22.4 - 89.6 Ounces 0.64 - 2.56 Ounces Low Sulfur Diesel #2 0.05% 2.24 Ounces 0.064 Ounces Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel #2 0.0015% 0.0672 Ounces 0.00192 Ounces Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel #1 0.0015% 0.0672 Ounces 0.00192 Ounces When you look at it from this stand point the amount of lubricants have been reduced to next to nothing. Updated: Jan 03 2007 I'm still researching products and more researching I do the further I keep finding that dieselsadditive are using mineral spirits, xylene, naphtha as an anti-gel and/or cetane booster.However, remember these chemicals are NOT lubricants. I'm also finding that some of thechemicals that they are using in fuel conditioners are cancer causing and have high healthhazards. Like I told one user on Cummins Forum, I've got a whole gallon of Xylene in the shopfor paint thinner, but I won't add that to my diesel fuel! We are trying to find additives to add to our fuel that contains lubricants and not thinners. Withthe HFRR score set on ULSD and lack of lubricants it has the last thing your injection pumpwants is more thinners. The whole idea is to put more lubricants in the fuel. I got to admit allthe above chemicals would break down the waxy chains of diesel fuel and improve the pourpoint. However, It comes with a price of enhanced wear on your fuel system. So far, I haven'tfound any kind of product that is like 2 cycle oil for properties. Mix ratio for 2 cycle Oil The easiest way to remember the mix ratio for two-cycle oil for your truck is 1 ounce of oil forevery gallon of fuel. So basically if you put 20 gallons of fuel in you need 20 ounces of oil. Thiswill work out to about 128:1 ratio, which is very safe to use! This is just for information purpose. Cummins authorize up to 5% of WEO (waste engine oil) to be blended into diesel fuel. Knowingthis now you can add up to 1.75 gallons of two-cycle oil in a 35-gallon tank. However, I wouldonly stick to using two-cycle oil and mixing 1 oz of oil to 1 gallon of fuel... Update! How is Diesel Fuel Transported and Handled - April 18, 2007 I found some interesting document about the way that diesel fuel is shipped and I'm going to share these document with you... http://www.arb.ca.gov/regact/dieslub/notice.pdf <- Some information on how diesel fuel is now shipped. http://www.arb.ca.gov/regact/dieslub/hor.pdf <- More on how diesel fuel is handled. http://www.ncagr.com/standard/diesellubricityenforcementpolicyletter11504.pdf <- How North Carolina is handling diesel fuel. Basically, diesel fuel after being refined is well above the 520 HFRR rating which isunacceptable by any standards. So it's up to the delivery personnel to add the lubricantpackage to the truck before delivery. Currently, I cannot find anything that insures that saiddelivery of diesel fuel will comply with the HFRR 520 limits. As far I see there is no test of thefuel after its loaded on the truck to ensure it is within compliance or if the additive package waseven added. Like North Carolina is saying, "It is our understanding that currently 40% to 60% of the diesel fuel supply meets the new standard without the addition of a lubricity additive." Now how are weas consumers to be sure that the lubricant package was used when it's needed? I'm sure thedelivery personnel are not testing every truck load of diesel before it delivered to your local fuelstation. RAW DIESEL FACTS - BEFORE A ADDITIVE PACKAGE Ultra Low Sulfur #2 Diesel by law cannot contain more than .0015% (15 ppm) of sulfur. This fuel will generally have an HFRR rating of 600-800. Ultra Low Sulfur #1 Diesel by law cannot contain more than .0015% (15 ppm) of sulfur. This fuel will generally have an HFRR rating of 700-900. Remember: 1000 Microns = 0.039369999999999995 Inch As you can see above raw untreated USLD diesel is well outside the range of the 520 HFRR limit. It requires a additive package. But once again the is no regulation that insure that package was added to the truck in proper quantity for that load. Now saying this... I know there isn't a single diesel additive product on the market today that can promise to improve the diesel fuel lubricity below 520 HFRR level! Especially if its untreated diesel fuel with a HFRR value of 700-900!!! Just something to think about when you buying a fuel additive. But I know that 2 cycle oil is reducing that number for sure! Update! Winter Time Performance of 2 Cycle Oil - April 30, 2007 For starters my lowest temperature around here was recorded at -20.2*F (-29*C) on January 16, 2007 in New Meadows, Idaho. This was recorded by my on-board thermometer which hold histories of HI and LO temps for both inside and out. During this entire season I never use a single anti-gel product on the market. Just diesel fuel and 2 cycle oil. Now remember above in the specs sheet for ULSD the gel point is 0*F. Now think about it. A snowmobile runs on a mixture of about 40:1 to 50:1 gasoline and 2 cycle oil. This very same snowmobile must run in extreme temperatures down as low as -40*F (40*C) and maybe lower. But what I want to point out here is... There is no problem with 2 cycle oil gelling up in a snowmobile in extreme temperatures as low as -40*F (-40*C) With mixtures as low as 40:1 a high performance snowmobile runs great. There is no reason why a 128:1 mixture in you diesel truck would lose performance to that mixture. Knowing that 2 cycle oil is lubricating your entire system compared to using a harsh solvent (that thins the lubricants) to breakdown the wax of diesel to keep the fuel flowing. Remember that very same snowmobile has no other lubrication system on board only the 2 cycle oil in the fuel to lube the entire engine. So it a prefect lubricant for your fuel system on your diesel truck. As you can see I've go no loss of power or economy with the use of 2 cycle oil. All I got is high points! Think about it most people see a decrease in fuel mileage during the winter time. I'm not seeing much of a decrease this winter between the Edge Comp and the 2 Cycle Oil used in my fuel. As for IP and LP pumps. I'm currently got 43K miles on my Bosch VP44 injection pump with no problems so far. Then I got 10K miles on my current carter Campaign pump. Which still got 11-12 @ WOT yet! Update! Using 2 Cycle Oil in ULSD Designed Trucks (2007+ Diesel Vehicles) - April 30, 2007 I would highly suggest that no one uses 2 cycle oil in a vehicle that is already designed for ULSD. These engines have some very expensive equipment on board like diesel particulate filters etc. These device are not cheap to replace. Also remember this might or will VOID your warranty on your truck. These engine have been redesigned to be run on fuel that are very low in lubricants (Sulfur content). UPDATE! May 19, 2007- 2 Cycle Oil And The DynoJet... Well there has been a lot of talk about 2 cycle oil hurting to HP/TQ numbers. Well I'm here to set the records straight for once and for all... First off let me lay down some baseline information. You all have seen my web page on my BOMBs and MODs I've done. Ok... We all know that the 2002 Cummins SO is rated for 235 HP 460TQ at the flywheel. Run #1 - Stock mode with Edge Comp Turned off. 228 HP - 462 TQ Well this proves there is very little drag between the flywheel to the rear end. Also this proves there was very little improvement in HP/TQ number concerning 2 cycle oil. I'm using conventional Dino lubes in everything except the transmission which requires the Castrol SynTorque. But still even this number is high for HP/TQ at the rear wheels... 2 Cycle oil maybe??? Run #2 - Edge Comp turned on 5x5 379 HP - 831 TQ Run #3 - Edge Comp turned on 5x5 381 HP - 826 TQ Ok we all know the Edge Comp give about 120 HP on 5x5 setting but now do the math. 381 - 228 = 153 - 120 = 33 HP difference! Where did this power come from? I got no other fueling enhancements and only a BHAF and straight piped exhaust 3"... Stock injectors, stock turbo, stock Bosch VP44 injection pump and lift pumps. As for my fuel / 2 cycle oil ratio he is what I had. I filled up with 26.306 gallons of diesel fuel and poured in 32 ounces of 2 cycle oil (SuperTech Outboard). So that means... 26.306 (Gallons) x 128 = 3,367.168 Ounces of fuel. 3,367.168 / 32 Ounces Of Oil = 105.224:1 Ratio of diesel Fuel to Oil. I admit this is a bit heavy mixture of 2 cycle oil to fuel. But I've been getting a bit lazy about measuring my oil so if I'm nearly empty I would add the full quart regardless. It's got to be the 2 cycle oil helping the burn of the fuel.. So never the less I'm a extremely happy camper and will continue to use 2 cycle oil in my fuel. Is 2 Cycle Oil Safe For My Cummins? Yes. Two cycle oil is safe for all Dodge Cummins engines from 989 to 2006. This concept wasdesign around the Bosch VP44 injection pump but works fine with Bosch VE Injection pumps,Bosch P700 Injection pumps, Bosch VP44 Injection pumps, and Bosch Common Rail fuelinjection. However, it is not safe to use two-cycle oil in any vehicle with a DPF or EGR system.As for my own truck, I'm at 8K miles on the clock on Feb 25th 2011, and my injection pumphas 3K miles at this time still doing great and producing plenty of power and good MPGs aswell. Will 2 Cycle Oil Plug Up My Fuel System? In a simple answer, No. Two cycle oil will mix with normal #2 diesels and stay mixed. It will notseparate nor plug up filters or injectors. Here is a single injector after 80K miles in my truck withsolely two-cycle oil no other additives or injector cleaners. The rest of them looked the same. Then here is what WEO/WMO or ATF looks like after a short period. (From another Cummins owner) Can you just imagine what the combustion chamber looks like? What's Wrong With Using ATF In The Fuel? ATF from the 1970s was nothing more than red dyed hydraulic oil. That's it. Today's ATF has so many additives, like friction modifiers, anti-scorching compounds, etc.These compounds are designed to retard burning of the ATF in your transmission so why wouldyou think it would burn good as a fuel? Then the other side of the coin like looking at thepictures above the ash level in ATF is high and will leave deposits on your injectors like abovethis will cause performance issues later in life for the engine. The other problem is ATF is redso after adding to your fuel you now got a tank of red dye untaxed off-road diesel, and youmight have a tough explaining away the ATF fluid to a DOT inspector. What's Wrong With Using Waste Engine Oil In The Fuel? If you got over to the HFRR testing of the fuel additive, you'll find the results of running wasteengine oil was rather poor. Then the other problem of all the debris that is in the waste engineoil. A normal oil filter filters down to 20-30 micron range, which is not good for the VP44injection pumps or Common Rail Injectors. Both fuel system need fuels that are very clean inthe range of 10 microns or less. Like the ATF, the ash content is off the scale as well.

would like to thank Jonesie from www.thedieselgarage.com for taking the time and doing this test for us. OK boys and girls.........the results are in- Here is the setup: Does 2 cycle oil actually quiet the engine, or is it all in our warped minds?? For the test: I parked my truck in it's usual spot on the driveway Placed a tape measure on the ground perpendicular to the left front wheel Placed a digital sound meter on an 8" high photo tripod with the sound pickup at 36" from the wheel. Recorded sound measurements on fast response, "c" weighting and adjusted scale for decibel range. Sound measurements were taken with truck at operating temperature, no accessories on (a/c, htr., lights, etc.) Measurements recorded for truck at idle and 2000 rpm in park, auto trans. Setup was duplicated for straight ULSD and 128:1 2 cycle oil mix, both tests conducted at approximately 6:30 pm PDT., several days apart. Test #1- 128:1 2 cycle oil (I already had the mix on board, so I ran this test first): Reading at idle- 79 db Reading at 2000 rpm- 89 db Test #2- Fuel tank run as low as I dared, then filled with straight ULSD, driven for 125 mi., then tested: Reading at idle- 84 db Reading at 2000 rpm- 92 db Conclusion: The addition of 2 cycle oil at a ratio of 128:1 (or 1 oz/gallon) attenuates or reduces the sound generated by the diesel engine at idle 5 db, and 3 db at 2000 rpm. Subjectively, the tester felt that the truck ran more smoothly overall and displayed less perceived vibration in-cab with the addition of 2 cycle oil, and also the 5 db sound attenuated recorded was easily noticed both in-cab and standing outside. Respectfully, Jonesie.

Fixing the 5th Gear Nut To fix your 5th gear nut you need to remove a few things in order to get to them. This will be done on my 1997 dodge Cummins 12v NV4500 2wd. If you own a 4wd, you will have to take the transfer case off instead of the tailshaft housing. I do not have a 4wd so cannot advise how to do it. Step 1: Drain the fluid out of the NV4500, this takes some time so you can do the next step while it is draining. Step 2: Remove the driveshaft starting at the axle. When removing the U-Joint, make sure the bearings do not fall off. If they do you risk having all the needle bearings fall out and they are an absolute nightmare to get back in place. The 2 red circled ones are the ones you need to be worried about. Tape them so they don’t fall off when you happen to walk by and kick it. Remove the center bearing also. You must hold the top of the bolt, it isn’t welded or anything like that. Now you can pull the driveshaft slowly out of the tail shaft, all as one very long shaft. Step 3: Disconnect speed sensor. Step 4: The oil should all be drained now so you have to jack the transmission up in order to take the tail shaft support out. So get a jack and jack it up until the trans goes up a tiny bit, just so you know it is being supported. Don’t jack it up any more than that because it is still bolted to the crossmember. Step 5: Take the bolts out of the bottom of the spacer that goes between the trans and the crossmember. It is the thing I am holding in my hand. There are 2 bolts on the bottom then 2 bolts off to the side. The bolts off to the side should have the nuts welded, but sometimes the weld breaks. You should be able to pull it right out, if it is tight, jack the transmission up a little more. Don’t get too crazy with the jack because it is still connected to the exhaust pipe mount. Step 6: Take the mount that supports the exhaust off. You should be able to wiggle it off of the exhaust with some time. If not, I’m afraid you will have to take the entire crossmember off. Step 7: Take all of the bolts out of the tailshaft housing. Be careful not to hit it or anything because more oil will dump out, maybe half a quart. So be prepared when you do break the seal for the oil it will puke. Step 8: Pull the tailshaft and wipe everything down. Step 9: Fix the nut. There are many different methods that have been tried and as new ones seem to come up and as old methods are being tried and proven or failing I would suggest you google "NV4500 5th gear nut fix" and research a little on your own as this is a very debateable topics as to which fixes work and which cause more problems than they solve. Here is a picture of what it should look like. And here is a picture of what it looks like when you have “lost 5th gear.” Mopar's Notes: Make sure you use a quality sealant like RTV Black during your re-assembly of the tailshaft housing. Another article to a more permanent repair of the 5th gear nut. http://quad4x4.com/NV4500%205th%20Gear%20Failures%20and%20Solutions.htm

ScanGauge II Trip Computer Calibration Procedure Ok Gang...I got the ScanGauge II dialed in perfectly and extremely accurate now. I know exactly how todo and make the adjustment so it right near perfect. Fill up Procedure 1. Pick a fuel station that you're going to use as a calibration fill point.2. Pick a pump that you're going to use for filling. You must return to the very same pump inthe same direction!3. Fill the tank on the lowest speed possible of the pump this reduces foaming of the fuel.4. When the pump shuts off That's it! Hang up the nozzle! Don't round up to the nearest dollar...5. This you go through the fill up process but leave the setting alone. Don't change the offsetpercent. However, you can change the price value!6. Drive the truck fair amount of distance at least 1/2 tank to 3/4 of a tank.7. Return to your fuel station to the same pump in the same direction.8. Fill the tank again in the same manner. When the pump stops hang up the nozzle.9. Now do your fill up and change your offset gallons to match the pump. Now be smart. If youget 18.889 Gallons make sure you round up on the ScanGauge II to 18.9 gallons. If thehundredth placement is less than 5 don't round up. Say it was 18.810 you would have set 18.8gallons. Speed Procedure 1. Use a GPS or barrow one from a friend.2. Take a ride with the MPH display up on the ScanGauge II and verify the speed is correct forall speed. (25, 35, 45, 55, 65, 75, etc.)3. If not correct your ScanGauge II speeds to match the GPS (not the stock speedometer!). Verification I went back now for the 3rd trip to the very same station filled up again same pump and samedirection. The pump stopped exactly on the amount of gallons the ScanGauge II displayed. Notto mention the price was exact too. It just doesn't get any better than that! Failures I've seen several people get upset about ScanGauge II not being accurate. Most of the timeyou find out they are using any old pump and rounding up to the nearest dollar. You must usethe same pump for calibration as I'm finding even though all pumps have a weights andmeasure sticker meaning they are calibrated, but most pumps are not absolutely exact. SoStation A might be +0.1 Gallon off when you go to station B it might be -0.1 off. You must usethe same pump. As for direction some of the station has a slope away from the pump so ifyou're in a different direction, then it might change the level of the tank! Direction is importanttoo. As for the speed, this is how ScanGauge II gets its mileage so if the speed is wrong, thenthe MPG figure is wrong too.MPG = Speed (MPH) / Flow (GPH)For example19.6 MPG = 55 MPH / 2.80 GPHSo if your flow calibration is done poorly, then the flow number is skewed. If your speedcalibration is done poorly so your mileage is skewed... So if both are poorly done well you'regoing to be very upset to find out your hand math and ScanGauge II are a long way from beingclose! Oh... If you do hand math to verify the ScanGauge use the miles from the ScanGaugenot the odometer. Like on my truck I'm close but not exactly perfect on the speed I'm still off by0.5 MPH so the Scan numbers are slightly off from hand math done with the odometer, but thehand math of the ScanGauge II is fine...

Gauges There are several brands of gauges available for diesel engines. The four most important gauges for a Dodge Cummins truck are: 1. Fuel Pressure 2. Pyrometer 3. Boost Pressure 4. Transmission Temperature (Automatic Transmission) Fuel Pressure Here is a typical setup for a stock fuel system for tapping the bottom of the fuel filter housing. Here is the basic fuel tap part used above. The needle valve is a Weatherhead Part number WH6820 usually sold at NAPA part stores for about $8 bucks. Here is my current setup used on my AirDog 150 fuel system. The fuel pressure tap is the old school Vulcan Big Line kit in the mid point of the stock fuel filter and the Bosch VP44 injection pump. Then the needle valve is first on foremost to protect everything down line from there. I installed my fuel pressure gauge by using a tapped banjo bolt. The lower picture shows the hardware used to plumb the fuel pressure gauge. There is NOT AN ISOLATOR in my system, but I do have a needle valve to shutdown the fuel flow if a leak occurs. A free banjo bolt is included in the Cummins Campaign Pump kit. The order number for the needle valve from NAPA is: Weather head (WH6820). The nylon tubing kit can be found at any local parts store in the oil pressure gauge plumbing kits. I found at my local NAPA store polyon air brake line in 1/8" size. This stuff is super flexible and super tough. You can use this stuff for you boost gauge and fuel pressure gauge without any problems. This tubing is fuel and oil rated so it will not break down with fuel or oil exposure. Much stronger than the cheap nylon oil pressure kits as mentioned above. Now there has been several people get rather disappointed in the needle valve and saying "Its not working it still wiping out the fuel pressure gauge / sender". Well this is caused by misadjustment of the needle valve typically its open too far and the water hammer pulses are beating it to death yet. So here is a simple video to show you how to adjust the needle valve... Pyrometer There are several methods to use when installing a pyrometer probe. The first thing I did was I center punched the manifold on the rear port where I wanted to drill my hole. Next, I greased the drill bit and drilled it slowly using a shop vacuum next to the bit to catch any debris. Then I used both a magnetic screwdriver and a Q-tip to pick up any metal chips. After that, I greased my tap and tapped the hole. I checked the manifold again in the same way as above. Finally, install the probe as directed by the manufacture. Triker888 from www.thedieselgarage.com suggested... Mopar's Notes: I notice that you used grease when drilling and tapping the turbo. That is good advice, but I want to add a different method, and just a little something to think about in the future. Use Lard as the grease and try to find fast spiral/helical drills and taps. The fast helix tends to draw the chips out of the hole rather than pushing them into it. Don't use a spiral point tap, as it is intended to push the chips into the hole. The lard is an excellent lubricant and really grabs hold of the chips. The tap would come out of the hole and the lard would be black. When I started doing tool and die work in the 60's we kept a can of Crisco (when it was real lard) on the shelf next to our machine for machining cast steel/iron, and in some cases bronze, even when we didn't have to worry about where the chips went. The theory is: Lard has a low melting point and provides a (very) thin, liquid, lubricant between the tap and the metal while the rest remains solid to "catch" the chips. Boost Pressure As with the Pyrometer, there are several ways of hooking up a boost gauge as well. I started with a 3/4" to 1/2" steel bushing, and then went to a 1/2" to 1/8" brass bushing. There is a pipe plug located right next to the fuel filter. The kit needed for this installation is the oil pressure gauge plumbing kits (nylon tubing kit) from a local parts store. The boost gauge connection is also going to require a bushing 3/4" NPT to 1/2" NPT also a brass. Low Fuel Pressure Light I upgraded my fuel lines to the Vulcan Big Line Kit. The kit includes a 1/8" NPT port for tapping for a test port or fuel pressure gauge. The picture shows the needle valve and pressure switch for a low pressure light. The Low pressure switch and tapped banjo bolt are included in the Carter Campaign pump kit. (4090046).

Winter Front Basically my winter front is a old road sign cut up to fit the opening in the grill.(Thank you! Kelly Hinkley - "The Metal Shop" Riggins, Idaho) I've seen several other ideas including, stainless steel, plexiglass, lexan, and several other materials. But the principal is simple. Keep the cold air from blowing across the radiator and engine. This will aid in engine warm up times and fuel mileage. Remember the cold air will extend the warm up times hence this will cause more fuel to be consumed till the engine is completely warmed up. (Roughly 160-190°F) I've seen about 5-10 miles before I got full engine temperature without the winter front. Now with the winter front its less than 3 miles to get full engine temperature. Excessive cold air for air intake will actually degrade performance. So with the winter front in place it will trap more warm air under the hood for engine use. Compression engines (diesel) require compression of air to make heat to fire the fuel. When the air get cold enough it will start to degrade the performance and fuel economy. As for overheating... Not likely. As long as the fan is in place with the winter front the fan will engage to help cool the engine down if the temperature was to rise from extra load or steep grade. I'm seeing people that are putting a piece of cardboard in front of the coolers and radiators or putting it between the radiator and the coolers. Most people put a good size hole in the middle and insert it... This is WRONG! DON'T DO IT! Why is cardboard inserted wrong??? Well when you put a piece of cardboard against radiator or coolers your block air flow completely all the time. Then when you cut a hole in the middle of the cardboard your blowing cold air on the fan clutch keeping it unlocked always... If the fan clutch did lock it couldn't cool the engine down you got cardboard block the flow of air. Remember also there is a lot of air pushing against this and will plug the face of the radiator/coolers with what ever material you use! The only air flow is going to be at the center where the hole is at... So now you got a overheat problem possibly with both coolant and exhaust temperatures. So why is the winter front CORRECT?? Because the winter front block the cold in coming air but it leave a gap between the grill and the coolers. So now if the fan should happen to lock it can pull full flow of air through it to cool not only the radiator but the intercooler too!

Tire Inflation Pressure Formula Gather Information of the Truck and Tires You going to need some information about the truck and the tires to use this formula. You need to scale the truck as you plan on using it this means with full load of cargo, trailers, full tank of fuel, etc. You need the front and rear axle weights. Then your going to need the information about the tire and its ablities for weight which are typically on the side wall. Here is the 265/75 R16's I'm running right now. The Formula Rather pretty simple formula once you see you'll understand how it works. Single Tire: (Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure Dual Rear Tires: (Axle Weight / 2) / (Tire Capacity weight x 2) x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure So we'll now start to plug in information provided from the scale and the tire. I'll start with the front axle. The first part of the calculation is dividing the axle weight in half to give the weight placed on each tire of the front axle. (4,440 Pounds / 2) = 2,220 Pounds Now we'll take the half weight and divide it over the the weight capacity of the tire. This should result in a decimal answer or a percentage of weight capacity that has been used. 2,220 Pounds / 3,415 Pounds = 0.65 (65% Percent) WARNING: You should never see a answer above 1.00. You are over weight for the tires and/or vehicle. Now we multiply the percent number against the maximum inflation pressure of the tire to get the inflation pressure for your current weight. 0.65 x 80 PSI = 52 PSI Front Tire Inflation So we get out our handy tire pressure gauge and adjust the front axle pressure to match. The Results Of The Front Inflation Pressure What you get is a tire that sits completely flat on the tread face and should have a very slight belly to it when look across the profile. Now you might have to adjust pressure a bit to suit your tats but typically you shouldn't need much more than +/- 5 PSI to make it right. Rear Tire Inflation This is where most people get panicy of the result they get from the formula. The rear axle weight on most of these truck is rather light. Like my truck in typical empty condition weighs out at 2,860 pounds so lets calculate that out quickly. ( 2,860 / 2) / 3,415 X 80 = 33 PSI So here is my current pressure and tire profile. Yes this is correct pressure vs. weight. It seems low but that because there is no weight on the rear axle. Now if I was to hitch up the RV trailer and readjust pressure vs. weight the mat would be different. With my RV I'm 4,280 pounds on the rear axle. (4,280 / 2) / 3,415 x 80 = 50 PSI Another Example with Load Range G's I've got a set of Load Range G's tires I use during the summer that have unusual specs. But I'll run the math to show no matter what you use for a tire you can figure out the pressures. Tires: Solid Trac (By Voma) 235/85 R16 - 3,750# @ 110 PSI Front Axle: (4,440 / 2) / 3,750 x 110 = 65 PSI Rear Axle (2,860 / 2) / 3,750 x 110 = 42 PSI Pressures vs. MPG's So far all the time I've used my formula I've never had any problems with MPG's from a result of low pressures. I used the calculated pressure and then increased it 10 PSI over calculated to see if there is any gains in MPG's. What I found is no gains where to be had in overflation. But your ride will suffer and tire wear will occur more so in the center of the tire. Like all my tire wear are even across the face and fairly even remaining tire tread on the outside of the tread vs. centers. All I can say it try it for yourself. Verification Of Pressure To Brand Name Tables Here is a Michelin Web Site page for Tire Pressures. http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/tires-retreads/load-inflation-tables.jsp Show a demo of Formula vs. Table pressures from Michelin. Axle Weight: 4,850# on Single Tire Axle Single Tire Forumla: (Axle Weight / 2) / Tire Capacity weight x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure (4,850# / 2) = 2,425# / 3,042# = 0.79 x 80 PSI = 63.7 PSI Axle Weight: 8,820# On Duals Rear Axle Dual Rear Tires Formula: (Axle Weight / 2) / (Tire Capacity weight x 2) x Tire Max Pressure = Inflation Pressure (8,820 / 2) = 4,410# / (2778# x 2 = 5,556#) = 0.79 x 80 = 63.4 PSI Take note on duals tire axles you got to double the 2,778# rating of the tire and then divide your axle weight. But with both sets the pressure number is right there within 3 PSI of the tire pressure chart of Michelin. Disadvantages of Underinflation An underinflated tire can't maintain its shape and becomes flatter than intended while in contact with the road. Additionally, the tire's tread life could be reduced by as much as 25%. Lower inflation pressure will allow the tire to deflect (bend) more as it rolls. This will build up internal heat, increase rolling resistance and cause a reduction in fuel economy of up to 5%. You would experience a significant loss of steering precision and cornering stability. Properly Inflated This is the balance between under inflation and over inflation. You still maintain some flexibility to the tire which will keep the comfort to the ride without creating excessive flexing, heat generation or sacrificing MPG numbers. As you'll see both underinflation and overinflation will cause issues with handling and tire wear / damage. Disadvantages of Overinflation An overinflated tire is stiff and unyielding and the size of its footprint in contact with the road is reduced. They could be damaged more easily when running over potholes or debris in the road. Higher inflated tires cannot isolate road irregularities well, causing them to ride harsher. However, higher inflation pressures usually provide an improvement in steering response and cornering stability up to a point. This is why participants who use street tires in autocrosses, track events and road races run higher than normal inflation pressures. The pressure must be checked with a quality air gauge as the inflation pressure cannot be accurately estimated through visual inspection. Chrysler OEM Specified Tire Pressures This is stated for 265/75 R16 tires for 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 4WD 5.9L Diesel. Light Load Fornt 40 PSI and Rear at 40 PSI. For weights up to GAWR Front 65 PSI and Rear 80 PSI. As specified on the door. Now also be aware that no vehicle should be capable of reaching GAWR safely. As you can see my GVWR is 8,800 pounds. Knowning my front axle weighs out at 4,440 pounds this means the maximum rear axle weight will be 4,360 pounds which would add up to 8,800 pounds GVWR. So in my case maximum actual pressure would be 57 PSI for both front and rear at GVWR. So there is no reason to inflate the tires above 60 PSI ever in my case because I would exceed the GVWR anyways. Just adding the two GAWR number comes out at 11,284 pounds which is 2,484 pounds over weight which happens to be 1.2 tons over! As you'll see my formula takes into account the actual axle weights also the changes of tire capacity from brand to brand. Were the OEM document only specifies the tire pressure for the factor brand tire (Michelin LTX 265/75 R16). Like myself I've change wheels and tire size. Just changing brand name you have to re-calculate your pressures. I've now owned tires with weight ratings from 3,042 to 3,750 pounds at a range of pressures from 80 PSI to 110 PSI. So the factory specified pressures no longer work and you need to figure out your base line pressure. So don't let the factory number lead you to blow outs. Tire Pressure profile photos Another view of tire pressure in photos. This is my rear tire of my truck. Now the tire at this time is a Black Lion HT 235/85 R16 (3,086 pounds @ 80 PSI). Calculated I should have 37.07 PSI in the tire but I'm going to start from dead flat and step up 5 PSI and shoot pictures of the tire. The camera is on a tripod and not going to be moved. Take notice at calculated pressure the tire had a very mild belly at calculated pressure as radial tires are designed to have but the next picture the belly is gone and the tire does not change much after that calculated point. The only thing it does do is roughen the ride and ride more so on the center of the tire tread reducing traction. 2,860 / 2 = 1,430 / 3,086 = 0.46 x 80 = 37.07 PSI

Fog Lights / Driving Lights Well I added driving lights or fog lights as a matter of fact 4 driving lights. I'm using 100 watt aircraft landing lights mounted in rubber tractor buckets. The reason for going to this is fairly simple. I've purchased several driving / fog lights. The biggest problem is the lens in normally made from glass. Well out here in Idaho most of the road are gravel or they use gravel on the highways for traction in the winter time. A good set of driving or fog lights would barely last a season before the lens was blown out by a rock. With the aircraft light the bulb is a sealed beam so the bulb and lens is on in the same. They are extremely bright and can light up as far as 1/3 mile down the road in front of you. The new system I've designed has a few safety features built into the fog lamp kit. The fog or driving lamps follow the setting that the main headlights are on. So if you select high beams the fog or driving lamps will follow and go to high beam mode. If you select low beams the fog or driving lamps will follow by going to low beam mode. You never have to worry about blinding some one with this system. If you go from headlight to parking lamps the fog or diriving lamps are forced to low beam mode regardless of the pervious head light mode. But if you use the dimmer switch to wink the high beam the fog or driving lamps will follow. But will return to low beam mode when released. When the headlights are turned off the fog or driving lamps are forced off as well. You don't have to worry about shutting down a second switch. My kit also includes a bypass shutdown switch too. This allows you to run only your stock headlights without the fog ro driving lamps. The kit requires tapping a few signal wires. But the lights are completely supplied by there own fuse from the battery. This will not put any extra load on you headlight circuit. The kit requires a signal from the trailer relay and a signal from the fog lamp relay. That's it! This kit uses 100W bulbs so its some states this might be illegal to use on highway purpose. Check with local laws first before using.

Backup lighting / Reverse Lighting The reason why I mounted the backup lights on my rear axle is to protect them from general on and off road debris. The rear axle guards the light when rolling forward and the sway bar guards them when backing up. So far I've only burned up 1 bulb for my backup lights. I've never crushed or damaged any of the backup lights yet. The bulbs used in the backup lights are 100 watt aircraft landing lights. These lights are hooked to a relay, which is triggered by the reverse light lead. This lead is found in the trailer harness and is powered by the trailer power lead. One main reason for the aircraft lights are they are known to be long lasting. My bulbs have lasted over 100K miles thus far without any major problems. These bulbs can be purchased at most local NAPA stores for about $15 to $18 bucks. NAPA# 4509 Now with the toggle switch added I can back up to a trailer and hitch up in the dark of the night without having to shift into reverse and shut the engine down. I can just flip the switch and I've got 200 watts of light right there at the hitch from the backup lights. So this makes hitching up in the dark easy.

Voltage Regulator Mod The voltage regulator on the 92-93 trucks is an internal unit inside the control module. If this goes out, you can mount an external voltage regulator like the earlier first gens used. A bad crankshaft position sensor will also cause your voltage regulator to not charge the altenator. You can also get by this by doing the following: The two terminals on the alternator for the regulator are interchangable. The alternator is a dumb alternator for an external regulator. The PCM is that regulator normally. The alternator does not care weather it is controlled by the PCM or a regulator. The PCM is not affected by not being hooked to the alternator. The two terminal regulator has the contacts in the shape of a pyrimid. One terminal is missing. The missing terminal and one other terminal are at the base of the pyrimid. Ok, hook the two alternator terminals to the two regulator terminals. Does not matter which goes to which. Now run a 12 volt line from an ignition source to the top regulator terminal along with the alternator wire. Thats it except you need a good ground from the alternator to the regulator case. On the 98.5 to 2002 the blue wire that is existing should be 12V keyed can be re-used for the external regulator. A little note on this system. If you hook the 12 volt up to the wrong regulator terminal, it does fry the regulator. Not much problem, seven bucks gets another one. The terminals for the regulator can be just the round female terminals that are used for connecters on lights and other places or go to an older junk yard and cut the plug from about any old chrysler product. Stock charging system wiring diagram