Mopar1973Man

http://brundage.com/snow-report/

I'm thankful I bought the plow blade for the ATV. Keep the driveway cleaned up is a snap. RV is tucked up under the spruce tree and keeping most of the snow off it.

Talk to Pepsi71Ocean he just bought a set of cable that are nearly OEM exact!

@JAG1 Carpenter to the bitter end... To all here Merry Christmas. Make sure you safe and sound I want to see you all return to the site after Christmas & New Years.

Like my announcement page.. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/announcement/44-m-e-r-r-y-c-h-r-i-s-t-m-a-s/

Battery cables. I will bet the cable are tired. Here is what I've got parked in the shop. I wonder how people get away with this? Look at that positive terminal. It a clamp on junk terminal. The core of the main cable is corroded. More accessory junk tied to the terminal. Secondary cable is just as rotten. Please people take the time to take care of your cables.

Bill... Where is the picture?

I started today by washing out the entire HVAC case with a power washer and 40* nozzle. Glad I did this because the stench of dried antifreeze would have stayed in the box. Every time the owner would fire up would smell antifreeze old antifreeze. That's gone now with the washing. The evaporator got a good washing out externally and the mud ran out of the face. Much better you can see light through the evaporator now. Now I get to the blend door stepper motor and find the plastic bushing is cracked. A good time to just order the "Heater Treater" and replace it.

I would take the time and get some mineral spirits and wash the system out good. I'm sure it will blacken the mineral spirits rocking the intercooler back and forth. I would pull the turbo and wash the turbo since your going to be rebuilding it.

If your going to get to the point of doing the heater core you might well service the entire HVAC box and know everything works correctly.

Just realized that... My bad, I'll shut up...

Should be vacuum controlled for defrosters. Also, if you disconnect the vacuum it should default to defrost mode automatically. So if you can reach defrost mode that means something is blocking the door from swinging for defrost mode.

Here is the one I've got... http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Muffler-H-D-Truck/_/R-EXT21468_0006446325

Window was rolled down at the start and then rolled up near the end... At 36 seconds I rolled up the window.

Maybe you should have tried them after Sear quit warranty them. Apparently the quality improved for me to have them for so long.

Just for a point of reference... I've been running Rancho RS5000 shocks now for over 100k miles of both off-road and on-highway and still working excellent. I might have to try the Bilstein 5100 next. Kind of pricey just doing a general search on the Internet.

I hate to say it, but you would want a smaller set of jumper cables for the vehicle.

Must be some of that Mag Chloride from the highway doing that...

Not ignored by me... I know to a certain extent that yes you can suck the heat out of the engine. It can be done by cranking the temperature knob to HOT and fan on HI and the block temperature will start to fall while the truck is idling at a stop. The reason behind this there is no thermostat to the heater core and it will continue to dump as much heat as the fan will allow. The fact remains under power at road speeds the block temperature should still rise above 190*F and hold good temperature other wise. I know for my truck if the cab temperature is comfortable and the temperature knob is about middle and fan is on the 2nd Speed setting I'll never drop below 188*F while out and about in the winter.

Some vehicles have a RED positive post for jumping from and others have the grounding spot that you mention. Some vehicles you really can't even reach the battery because of all the brackets or location of the battery.

I typically use canopy weather stripping for resealing the evaporator which works pretty well. Heater core can use some too but pretty thin stuff.

In those cases, I like to hook the ground last to the block or frame metal on the other vehicle.

Suggested to do both then there is no generatio of power anywhere.

That's about it right there. Nothing really left.