Mopar1973Man

LOL... Both trucks are put away in their garages. The ATV is fuelled up and ready for action. Bring it on!

I'm going out on a limb to learn more about these ABS issues.

Ok. Here is what is going on. I've got my module back from Module Masters and installed in Saturday morning. Went for test drive still pulling and acting weird. So I waited patiently for Monday to show up. I talked to Module Masters again and the tech suggested I clean all the plugs of di-electric grease and try again. This gave me some sort of uniform problem now that I could diagnose to some degree. I was only getting right pull from about 45 MPH and down to nearly full stop. So I change out the right sensor AGAIN with one of the sensor I've got a pile of. Now the pulling stopped but the ABS/BRAKE light come on now at about 60-65 MPH without touching the brakes. OK... So I order another set of front sensors. (3rd set now). Installed them and got no change. The rear sensor was just changed less than a week ago. So I called Module Masters back and he wanted me to pull codes from the module. There is no one in the valley with a ABS code reader. I called a Dodge Dealer and they want $105 minimum to pull codes not to mention set a appointment. Kind of hard to drive to Lewiston, ID for code reading then go onto Moscow, ID. So MoarMom and myself discussed this whole thing and I've just purchased a Innova Tool that does both ABS and SRS (airbag) codes. I would have to say I got a killer price on the tool. Innova 31603 - $571.xx http://pro.innova.com/Product/FullDetail/f968c286-07ab-46b7-bfd5-bae40673742e I just got it on Amazon for $193.xx (Can't beat that price! Also there is only ONE left!) http://www.amazon.com/Innova-31603-CarScan-Scan-Tool/dp/B00D2I0IDG I'm going to go out on the limb and learn how to resolve these error and do the troubleshooting for ABS and SRS codes.

Pretty small heater. First time I seen it I knew what it was. Kind of like the temp sensor on my house battery bank.

Just make sure to remove the filter. As for the master ground for the ECM, PCM and VP44 is in one wire... Passenger side battery. That in my hand is G115 ground.

Pull each fuse one at a time and measure the DC AMP draw of each fuse you pull. When you find the high amp draw you'll at least know which circuit is drawing.

Driver side battery tray. Remove the driver side battery and the sensor is a round disc on a spring. Also the battery temp sensor affects the grid heater operation.

There is no way to check other than to replace it and hope for change. There is no stated ohm levels being its a thermistor you can check it by ohms. There is no data tools that can see it other the DRBIII tool at a dealer which will most likely cost hour worth of labor to have them plug in and tell you. I think just buying the sensor is cheaper. Bad battery cell could do this too.

Not to hijack. But for high up and away from the river I am. I still been flood twice now. So I know what being flooded out is like. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r7G3xcEZKhw

Ok... Then... How about in the blazing heat you able to kick 6 cylinder high idle to help cool down the cab faster with A/C? How about a friend has a dead battery. You can enable 6 cylinder mode and kick the RPM's up to make jump starting easier. Still you can use MPG mode any time you wish. It still gives a mild boost in MPG during the warm up stag.

Just watching the rain here, it has been pouring cats and dogs for a few days. I can imagine the increase in stream flows. So far Idaho is way low and long ways from danger. Now looking over MoparMom's shoulder and seeing the pictures of Portland, OR and its runoff and flooding... My prayers are sent as well.

You could get the high idle feature either by going to a dealer and have them enable it. Or... Barrow a Smarty programmer.

Check you battery temp sensor in the driver side battery tray. If the sensor is damaged then the batteries will most likely over charge.

I would leave it unhooked and see if the module is causing the problems or not. If the ABS module is having troubles and shorting out the CCD network then the rest will crash as long as it's hooked up but if you unhook it and everything works then the module should be returned for warranty service.

If you have a warranty I would send it back or contact them and talk to them and explain the problem. Like mine I just got my module back from "Module Masters" and still had the same problem yet. Come to find out the wanted me to clean the sockets and makes sure the connectors what making good contact. I was using di-electric grease in the plugs. So I clean them out and now found I was getting a consistent issues of pulling right. So I replaced my right sensor with a another used sensor and it went away. So what you'll need to do is get a code reader. Now reset the codes and see what comes up after restarting. Is in the same codes? Now unplug the ABS module (both plugs) and now reset the codes again. Now test it again do the codes return or not? I know either case the speedometer will not function till the CCD network issue is resolved.

Here is the wiring diagram... (attachment below) As for sensors. I will say if you still having issues I'm going to bet its like myself its going one of the front sensors is mismatched and causing the ABS / BRAKE light issues. As for the error codes that is CCD network bus error. antilock brakes.pdf

Just return from McCall ID... 31*F and pouring snow. Down here is raining. Yes there is a ploughed road ahead of me... Somewhere...

According to the error for the P1291 is that the ECm is looking for IAT temperature change in the first 15 second of engine run time, If you locked to 140*F there is no change and the ECM assumes the IAT sensor is acting goofy. What's weird I've never gotten that code ever in the 4-5 years of having the switch. So its a software difference between the 99 and the 02.

Hmmmm.... During the summer time I spend most of my time out in the woods either cutting firewood, camping, hiking, ATV riding. Which goes hand in hand with Search and Rescue which I volunteer for Idaho County Sheriffs office and the Salmon River Fire Dept. As for the fire Dept I'm a Station Captain so I've got a crew under myself as well. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/topic/10343-tepee-fire/ Come winter time like right now I enjoy the web site. Not so much as a user but the server administrator and coder. Like this evening I was playing with CSS3 code and playing with site styling just for fun. This below was just being creative because I was bored. As for my 9 to 5 job. Well I'm self-employed mechanic here in the valley. Been doing Dodge Cummins repairs and modifications for locals. I've been contracted by a local that has a total of six Dodge trucks in his fleet to maintain.

That's all I every do is either park over a sprinkler or get out the power washer...

For guy here that lives in salt in country and has two trucks that have plastic bed liners. I'm still to this day rust free in the bed. The only thing I do is pull the plastic liner out once a year and hose out the bed and allow to dry. Then reinstall the bed liner.

Lets say by Thanksgiving the ski resorts should be open. Right now they opened and barely got 18-30" of snow to ski on. New Meadows, ID should bury the fence post along the highway by Christmas or New Years. Long ways from that. I should have at least 1-2 feet of snow in my yard right now. Older Video. (2011 winter)

I'm referring to 98.5 to 02 cluster and the oil pressure gauge issues. 94-98 clusters should be oil pressure sender to cluster direct wired. Still in all I would still test with a mechanical gauge.

Umm... No. Just rain here but snow above. Pollock ID New Meadows ID

There isn't any voltage regulator on the cluster like old school. There are fully digital stepper motors commanded by CCD network data sent from PCM (fuel and volt gauge), ECM (tachometer, oil pressure and coolant temperature) and ABS (speedometer) computers. That why to test the cluster you hold the trip pin down and turn the key on look for the word CHEC in the odometer window and release. This fires the cluster computer in diagnostic mode to test all gauge functions and spit out any error codes at the end. So as for the weird oil pressure gauge behavior that function of one of the updated flashes that Dodge created. Like another one I've seen too is once the voltage hits 12.00 exactly the voltage gauge drops to 8 volts and chimes the CHECK GAGE light. Even though the voltage isn't 8 volts it's 11.99 volts and falling. All data to the gauges is delivered on two wires. So basically in a nutshell the cluster is its own standalone computer.