Mopar1973Man

Yeah... I just got more tools added to my collection I just bought a fuel pressure test gauge for low pressure side. I pick that up from Vulcan Performance. Its a wonderful 0-30 PSI oil filled test gauge that should work for most all diesel applications. Then I got me a test cap for common rail fuel systems from Geno's Garage. So now I can systematically block off each injector testing for bad injectors on common rail engines. Funny how your tool box continues to grow no matter what.

Well in your case might not be then but still wheel balance can be a factor still. Is the tire true round no blisters or such? You'll be able to see it on the tire balancer if so. Shocks would be my next step.

Interesting not on that page... Dynamic Cranking Pressure: (at 150 rpm starter rpm) Note=> after 7 to 10 needle pulses on a hi-quality Compression Tester The slower the cranking RPM, the lower the cranking psi The faster the cranking RPM, the higher the cranking psi The poorer the Piston Ring seal, the lower the cranking psi The poorer the Valve Seat (and guide) seal, the lower the cranking psi In addition, aluminum Blocks may show lower cranking psi Also Engine should be between 140 F to 180 F temperature for Tests The compression tester's needle should swing over to 90+ or more psi on the 1st Pulse this indicates great Hone Job, Valve Guides, and Valve Job

I've got a degree from ITT Tech for electronics and computer science. Yeah I know...

That where over size tire users have some of the issues. With larger diameter tires and wider faces it takes so little to be out of balance that death wobble does occur. I've seem some with huge amounts of weights plastered to the wheel trying to obtain balance. Then when the do hit a bump or bridge seam then the death wobble starts. This is because of the geometry of the tire and the out of balance can be so small that the leverage angle of the weight is greater that factory sized tire. Not to mention factory sized tire weight much less in rotational weight. All play a roll in the death wobble problems.

I would say it a air in the fuel. Some where you have a suction air leak into the system. The high rev misfire and the bluish smoke is most likely air.

The only time mine doesn't get plugged in if outside is when there is no electricity to plug into. Darn "Current Bushes" don't work very good up here in the middle of winter. Typically I make sure to get it at least parked in a unheated shop which is typically above freezing not but much though.

Still can use it. Use a 5 pin relay. Then use 30 and 87 pins leave 87a open. The when toggled to low the circuit open and the light are off.

Simple get you feed from the fog lamp relay.

If it was me. I would have the tire rebalanced for absolute zero. Some shops allow for 1/2 or a bit more. Double check the typical like bearings, ball joint and shocks too. Then on the driveshaft I've seen on my 96 some how I struck the front u-joint yoke and the yoke ear was bent slightly making a vibration. I just replaced it with a salvaged shaft. It might be time to consider spin balancing the shaft again. I've seen plenty of trucks with death wobble but I've never experienced it in either one of my trucks yet!

Remember that is the running mate. I've done this a bunch. So then 1 & 6 are running mates where the pistons both travel up together. So to adjust #1 you want #6 to transition intake/exhaust. Then reverse it again so #1 is transition and adjust #6.

You beat me to it. I just read that article just a few minutes ago. (Idaho Statesman)

Yes it could...

Welcome to the family. Also take notice the changes in your account as well. We now provide 1 year permium membership with tech support with your high idle purchase. So if you have any issue with your high idle kit just submit a support ticket and the staff will get right on that.

How about the TV cable is it hooked up? Is it adjusted right?

As long as the oil consumption is low why worry too much.

Depends on the leak. It could be sucking air into the mater cylinder. Look at the rod under the dash and the firewall see if its wet looking.

Personally I would just buy a another stocker full assembly and install it. Stock system seem to do fine even with a Southbend clutch rarely ever have any problem. No need for adjustment works without all that special gadget. I would ditch the stainless hose for the plastic being the stainless attracts and holds heat on the fluid longer. But that's just me..

Thanks LiveOak very good article and I love the video at the bottom of the page. So very true...

Welcome to the family Ken. So you not a newbie to diesel then. You'll fit in with all the other diesel nuts here in the family.

List all your numbers for each cylinder.

Shouldn't. The sealing copper washer is there for that purpose. No compression should make it past the copper washer on the tip.

You not going to run the test slug and there is no other injectors in the rail. There is no fuel there to seal out. So don't worry about the o-ring.

You'll know what I mean when you run the test. With the other 5 holes open you should here a free roiling engine till it hits the compression stroke and it will make a off beat sound. That would be 1 beat or one compression stroke. I typically stop after 3 times. Also I've had a few test the theory on hot vs. cold compression test typical the hot test shows higher pressures. Rings seal up better.

My first thing I normal do is grab my handy test light. Then run through both the PDC and the cab fuse panel checking fuses. When you check fuses tap both post it should light up on both sides. If none light up then that circuit is not powered. For example the radio fuse will show no power because it requires the key to be ON. So a blown fuse will have one post with power and the other post dead. Pull the fuse and check. As for the bigger square fuses under the hood you'll have to pull them out and use a ohm meter.