Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Must be some of that Mag Chloride from the highway doing that...
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Not ignored by me... I know to a certain extent that yes you can suck the heat out of the engine. It can be done by cranking the temperature knob to HOT and fan on HI and the block temperature will start to fall while the truck is idling at a stop. The reason behind this there is no thermostat to the heater core and it will continue to dump as much heat as the fan will allow. The fact remains under power at road speeds the block temperature should still rise above 190*F and hold good temperature other wise. I know for my truck if the cab temperature is comfortable and the temperature knob is about middle and fan is on the 2nd Speed setting I'll never drop below 188*F while out and about in the winter.
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Some vehicles have a RED positive post for jumping from and others have the grounding spot that you mention. Some vehicles you really can't even reach the battery because of all the brackets or location of the battery.
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I typically use canopy weather stripping for resealing the evaporator which works pretty well. Heater core can use some too but pretty thin stuff.
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In those cases, I like to hook the ground last to the block or frame metal on the other vehicle.
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Suggested to do both then there is no generatio of power anywhere.
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That's about it right there. Nothing really left.
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I want to bring your attention to heat core servicing. I know there is a thread over on CF explaining on how to do the short cut method where you cut the tube ends and hose clamp inside the truck. This gets around the idea of having to recharge the A/C. I would like to advise against this method being so far the HVAC I've open in the years all them are truly funky looking with everything from mice nest to like this one with packed hay and road dust. If you going to do a heat core do it right and take care of everything. This includes the stepper motor for the blend door, dust and debris on the system, check your blower motor for problem and resistor.
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Absolutely Perfect!
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Good thermostat should be completely closed by 188*F on a live data tool.
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Myself... If I'm jumping others I woud start with the RED leads and hook my positives up on both vehicles. Then hook up both BLACK lead on my negatives or make my last connection to the ngine block of the dead vehicle. I would set my 6 CYL high idle mode. Then sit back and wait at least 5 minutes minimum for the high idle to charge the dead vehicle a bit before telling the driver to try starting. Once started I reverse out of my set up taking my grounds first then my positives. This way you never have a point of arcing cables. Watch for a lot of GM/Chevy vehicles have stupid side post. Usually, they will have a POS connector under an RED plastic cover for jump starting. That's one thing I've never done yet for my truck. Is having to jump start my truck. I've NEVER had a dead battery!
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Man, you have no idea how much of up hill battle it is with tinfoil, grounds and relocation of grounds. Over on CF its a never ending battle of goffy people still listening to that same old stupid idea tinfoil fixes torque converter problems.
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I just hook them up. Just be sure of polarity. That is the only mistake that will wipe out an alternator. The other question are you needing a jump start or are you giving jumps to others?
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Here is the Holset Service manual for you. HX30_32_35_38_40_GW-1.pdf The only thing I ask is would you document your rebuild with lots of pictures. I would love to have a turbo rebuild article produced for the site.
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More or less get what you paid for... $20 bucks isn't a whole lot of quality there.
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If it was me I would pull the turbo and rebuild it yourself. The bearing kits are about $100 or so. Look for Holset Bearings no cheap china stuff here. While the turbo is off, look and see how far that oil went into the system if it reached the intercooler you going to have to pull the radiator and the intercooler to wash the intercooler out with solvent. As for the metal, it could be piston wear to from the ingested dust from the crappy K&N filter. This you can do a compression test to verify the health of each cylinder.
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I remember those days... Dave is right the mirrors don't get hot or even warm to the touch. Just warm enough to shed the frost or ice. They do also get warm enough to help dry the mirrors of but it takes quite awhile to do.
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I'd love to see this done with lots of pictures.
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I'm running a 30" NAPA muffler and love it. I've also done a 4" Diamond Eye exhaust on a 1995 Dodge that sounds about the same. Also running a 30" muffler from Diamond Eye.
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Metal is still disturbing. The problem is finding out what metal is from. Blackstone will tell you what kind of metal but that's about it. It will give clues on what it might be. Also don't discount the turbo it might be the source of the metal being you already seeing oil in the turbo.
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In the pan, I'm not worried about it as much. You've got the magnetic plug capturing the debris. Then the oil has to be pumped into the oil filter. Again going to be captured by a full flow filter before going out to the engine bearings and such.
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Standard oil change is 7500 miles. I would half that at 3750 miles.
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It would be along the lines of R&R injectors price wise.
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I split the topic out so this can fork out with a new conversation.
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Mopar1973Man's Crankcase Vent Stock breather issues... The main issue with OEM crankcase vent is it is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case. The piece of hose elbows over the case and points down towards the ground. There are two versions of this crankcase. One involves a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other does not. A Technical Service Bulleting (TSB) was released on this issue as well: TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow). This bulletin warns of a potential of extreme loss of oil from a truck descending at too steep of a slope while off-roading. During this loss of oil, oil also has been known to scatter all over the engine and radiator. This scattering of oil causes the collection of dust and dirt in the face of the radiator. This collection causes overheating issues for your truck. Even in with normal use, the cases that include a breather bottle can emit enough oil vapors make the radiator gunky with the collection dirt and dust. Another TSB on this issue is TSB 09-02-00 (A Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor Coming From the Diesel Engine Compartment). This bulletin was written about the foul heavy oil smell after an oil change. Although it is normal for some brand of oils to have this heavy smell anyway My own personal fix… Here is a short video of normal blow by...
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