Dieselfuture

Mine is kind of doing the same thing only mine is four wheel drive so I have a leak on tcase output shaft, same small drip. Mine started after I had driveshaft rebalanced, but I had it rebalanced again just to be sure and nothing changed. Check your vent make sure it's not plugged, and if you overfill it too much, that may do it also. Maybe a bushing in there you could change.

OBD link here too

What.... and this whole time I thought it was all metal, great..... Thanks for pointing that out. I didn't even pay attention to mine, maybe because they were in one piece and I didn't realize there was plastic involved. I'm loving this more and more.

Unless you make it look better then it may worth something but your time and effort may worth something too.

So far it looks like my average is 20mpg, engine load is down and egts too, but my speedo is off according to GPS. If I'm doing 70 by GPS truck says 72 or so. PO said he flashed pcm I believe (or abs module) whichever one is responsible for speedo, for 295/75/16 I believe. So if I'm getting 20mog by the truck and qwadzila what am I really getting. I'm guessing it's about 5% off or so. Still better then my 18.5 with 285s

Here is what I came across. Last year it said CI4 this year it says CK4

I have no idea, some say 135 others 150. I figured 135 was more then arp 425 at 125 so I went with 135. Gotta to be better then arp 425 and stock head bolts.

What's the point anyway of hot retorque, better more even pressure? I think going to 135ft/lb on 26 studs got to be tight enough I have A1 H11 studs.

Great, I retorqued my head cold about 75 ambient. After few members here posted a video of guys retorquing arp on hot motor snapping a stud.

I thought it was a bad idea to torque on hot engine

And I need more coffee Because when I had the head at machine shop they didn't asked me if I wanted to machine it for newer tophat stile seals, @Marcus2000monster it's $80 extra to do so. Well worth it if you have the head off. So they used seals that came in my Cummins hg set, which blew off and got destroyed by spring retainers. So instead of taking head off again I found the closest match of seals that happened to be Ford. And yes @Marcus2000monster they need out side diameter shaved down, inside of rubber just a bit I have pictures and size of drill bit in my thread, also going in reverse on the drill and not all the way up, and I took little coil springs off the seals so there isn't as much tension on valve. Edit @trreed I didn't answer your question directly. But maybe you got what I'm saying. Originally last year I had an oil Leak from hg, so when I took the head to the shop they did basic rebuild with new guide inserts, valve job, ect. And I had head gasket set that I got from geno's, so I dropped valve seals that came with it off to the shop, which were original Cummins seals. I didn't know about top hats at the time, never ran in to it before. And I didn't have any problems burning oil or smoking from bad seals, the whole reason for taking head off is oil leak. So apparently my shop didn't know any better or didn't think I'll have a problem and used the seals I gave them. Well not even a year later, half of exhaust seals popped up, and that's where I came up with Ford seals for now, and hopefully ever and I did this twice as later some intake seals also popped. I was going to use Ford seals on all valves in the beginning to decided to only put them on exhaust side as intakes were fine, well not long after intakes popped too. I want to say it's because of exhaust break pressure. Just can't have shop and then me doing seals and having same results. So we'll see how @Mopar1973Man head holds up, if his will be fine then there is something wrong on my end. I don't think it's boost pressure, I don't go pass 45psi, but like mentioned by other member he hit 70psi of back pressure from using EB.

I'll have to find time and then figure out how to do it, plus I only have a few thousand miles on this setup. Probably should put more miles on before I go telling everyone that's the solution. Either way it will be more of a Band-Aid, right ways machine work on the head.

Only if I knew what to look for in compound set up Sounds tempting to say the least. But for now I've spent way more then anticipated in the last year.

So what about using steel wheels vs aluminum, they are smaller but much heavier. Will it be counterproductive, meaning I'll see same mpg with smaller heavier tire vs my lighter aluminum rims with bigger tires.

https://ussealparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=+Vs292v These are for Ford and need to be modified to fit on stock 2nd gen 24v head. That's what I used on all of my valves. Get extra incase you mess few up modifying them. Good luck. Or you can do it the right way and take the head off, then use these. https://ussealparts.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=VS-C59LV I recommend rereading my thread if you're going to modify, there are some key steps in modifying.

Would it make sense to stiffen things up before hand, I know it won't absorb shock as good but if it saves work later. And I'm talking if you had a heavy duty bumper on, so maybe bumper would take on the impact and frame be ok I had a mud truck with heavy bumper and I could mow down trees 6" in diameter pretty easy and just make a trail, never had problems doing it, except one time I ripped my brake line off.

I just put these 265/70/17 and drove around a bit. Can definitely tell it's easier to take off in 2nd now and seem to be causing a little easier down the road. But these are on steel wheels and waight 84lb and my 285/70/17 are on 4th gen mags that waight 72lb so I'm not sure if I'll gain any mpg and it looks goofy being smaller, not sure how you guys do it with 245.

Ha ha, yeah I had fun myself when did mine, that's why I decided to modify some Ford seals to work vs pulling head again lol.

No. You can modify Ford seals to fit what you have now or you can take head to machine shop and have them machine it to use newer style top hats that are ment for cummins

I didn't have this issue but I also have different brand studs. I would put a dent in body then if possible or drill a hole, idk Sometimes it takes few tries, it's like a chinese puzzle

Everything is here

Only because I didn't put top hats right of way. @Marcus2000monster that's something you can do, is modify Ford 4.0l seals and put them on for now, even with worn guides they should last a while. JMO

Pull valve cover and see if anything out of place

Mine started to smoke a lot on start ups, more white then blue, but some blue in it. Used just a little oil too.

The more you pay attention to these trucks the more they brake. You're not the only one having issues like this, don't feel singled out.