Dieselfuture

Sounds like he's willing to learn, at least he didn't give up on the truck.

Do you mind telling me what happened, I know you mentioned something about scoring on cylinder walls, did the Piston start to melt too

Normal driving around 1600 if I want to go faster 22-2400 so when I shift turbo can still spool and egts are lower. If I'm being stupid 3200 is where my rpm limiter set, but I have went to 3500 on few occasions. I know power should be around 22-2800 but for whatever reason my truck still pools hard at 3200. Maybe because of timing being at 30 by then.

I wish you would ditch the intake pump and go with Fass or something like fuel boss, and then upgrade everything to 1/2" lines and put a pressure gauge on. On why there is no power to the pump, ether I'm not sure I never had to deal with any of that, po of my truck had airdog on and when it faild I went with fass, now I'm thinking I should have went with mechanical.

I had a problem with the headlight switch on the dash that I experienced similar problem with. I took it apart and found one of the rollers that makes contacts fell out and was just jiggling inside the switch, it took a little bit to figure out how to put that switch back together but now it's working fine. It's pretty easy to pull it out and just shake it in your hand and see if something inside is loose.

I paid$1000 to have everything you listed done on mine but they told me I was getting a good deal since me and them went back in time, they did 3 angle valve job not sure if it's standard or because it's more of a race shop. I should have spent another 80 and had the guides machines to accept top hat seals instead of using ford ones. The only thing instead of a full guide they put in brass inserts, they said they've done a lot of them like that then never had a problem so I guess time will tell. Plus I did have them mag it and pressure-test it. I thought genuine Cummins heads for that price were bear.

Wow that makes me feel a little better considering I have that much in new head gasket, turbo, head work, and Manton stuff I just got. Glad I learned how to fix my own long time ago. Poor guy, I'm sure dealer didn't even bother to tell him about pressure problems associated with factory junk lift pumps. Brain dead zombies work at these places or they have no sole.

If you're going to spend more then couple hundred dollars then you'd be money ahead getting 62/68/12 or having one built for around $800 like I did thanks to @jlbayes for pointing this place out http://www.northamericanturbo.com Made in USA with genuine holset parts, some of it is used but in good condition. I love my current turbo but you'll need bigger injectors, my 7x10 seem to be a perfect match. You can check Craigslist or local diesel shops, sometimes you can pick them up for around $100. You can see if place above have some too, I'm sure they have a whole bunch to chose from.

Did you take the map plug adapter out and put it back to factory wiring

Like @04Mach1 mentioned, just reuse stock head bolts and when you have money later or feel the need for studs you can always do it then.

I cringe every time my kids get a ride in that pile that my wife's sister got. And she does trust that thing. Once I mentioned something like, "what you really trust that thing" I just got a look back like what you still drive your pos old truck and car. So I don't say anything anymore and leave in hopes of nothing bad happening. Kinda helpless when the whole world wants to move towards AI future and most can't wait. Sad really, there needs to be a line in the sand.

Mine are supposed to be set to 320, if they are then I love it.

What's it rated for hp

What are you running for timing at that speed, for them tires that's pretty good. I would do the ground mod if you haven't already and make sure the alternator is good.

@dripley been cheating and using barsleak tablets to get by

Nice and clean, barely any rust. I know what you mean about getting expensive, when I looked in to this Cummins deal I was promised 1000000 ml if I maintained it. I'm getting close to have everything apart once already and I haven't even started to get in to body work and then there may be new wheel bearings, gear box, clutch etc in near future just depends on how much I drive it....or just get in it lol.

I don't know man I'm halfway tempted taking it to the dino to see what I'm at. Po supposably put a 500hp clutch in, but I really have no idea what it is. It's been holding up so far. All I know is it's really grabby must be ceramic

This is what I did on my truck been like that for years now

Sorry to hear that, I guess maybe instead of valve seals you might as well go for the entire head, save yourself a headache and have the head machined for top hat seals. Then you'll be ready for racing again. I'm getting pretty good at disassembling my head, everytime I close valve cover I say I do not want to open this for at least 100k, so far it hasn't been working.

I believe this is the latest software that is on my truck 313038303J

This is the time when you wish you had a built automatic. But honestly I drive like an old man most of time, it's just nice to know the power is there if you need it. If I had some sort of guarantee that I won't break anything, I would be racing stop light to stop light on daily basis lol, I'm just tired of working on it all the time and want to just enjoy driving it. But I do definitely love my 7x10 with my current turbo, they were meant for each other , and of course none of this would be as good without V2 tuning.

Well I spent 4 hours yesterday and got it done, otherwise it would bug me knowing that it ain't right. So now I'm using Ford 4.0 Top Hat style valve seals on all four of my valves, glad I bought enough off them. I should have done it right away but seeing how intake once didn't have a problem I decided not to. About half of them were off and going up and down with valves, and the other half didn't take much effort to pry them off, definitely not as much as to put them on. Maybe it's the oil I'm using it's too slick Either way I'm glad I figured out that these Ford seals work on a Dodge with slight modifications. But still the answer is to machine the the head to accept what's meant for it. Here is 7x10 injector and tunion after thousand miles, looking good as far as I can tell. There are tiny scuff marks on trunions that transferred from the rocker, but you can't really feel them it's more or less the finish looks that way. I went and drove it later and for the first time used wiretap with these 7x10, all I can say is wow I don't think I'll have to ever use wiretap again it's way too much power, I'm afraid I'll break something on the truck. Thing was angry and screaming, good thing I had my D fuel set on the quad.

You should be fine if yours are original, if you ever change them go to top hats style.

Well, some shitty news for me. Just took valve cover off to check valve lash after about 1k and most of them needed to be adjusted a little, things must of wore in place. That part didn't bother me but I decided to take a closer look at valve seals and ..... top hats on exhaust looked fine and now my intake ones worked their way up on few cylinders I tried to push it back down but as soon as I rotated the motor it worked right back up, it's working like an umbrella seal now. I'm pised once again, now I have to find time to take it all apart and change intakes to top hat style too. Should of done it right away but as hard as intakes were pressed on it didn't think there would be a problem especially if I didn't have a problem with them before, should of let them be I guess. So I don't know if it's seals quality or I did something wrong. All the Manton things I put on seem to be doing good. I just don't feel like taking injectors out again anytime soon, but if oil is going down the guides it will probably wear them out sooner then I want. So I'm going to have a beer and get this thing of my mind got other things I need to be thinking off.