Dieselfuture

I run 58-60 in front and about 54 in back, that's empty. Average 18-19 on hwy if I'm easy on it.

Glad to hear

I would say it's probably AC, if your carpet is wet which is hard to tell sometimes you'll have to pull it up. Then all you need to do is put a piece of tube on the outside of the cab we're AC nipples sticking out through the firewall, and extend it down about a foot or so.

I'm getting used to sleeping 6-7 hours a day now, used to sleep 9 or so but with a job 70ml away last couple of years it's been a bit of a challenge. Seems that my body is getting used to it but my brain doesn't function that we'll anymore lol. And I can drink all the coffee I want now with no affect on me at all, in fact I can have coffee in the evening and pass out cold just fine 20min later. But if them chickens image can be flashed in my sleep, it be a good way to wake up.

Mine has nothing between glass and plastic just like yours and same weather strip on front Edit Don't forget to plug windshield fluid hose back before you put it all back lol

Yeah new motor spins easy, my original one was rough time. After some oil it spun easy and I did dump some black dust out of the hole, like you said probably brushes wore some. Resistor is and isn't a wear item in my opinion, if everything works fine it should last a long time but if motor is dragging then it will burn out faster. I would just replace it. Take it out and look at it, mine was missing a few big chunks, I used a vacuum and a rubber heater hose to clean most of crap out of the box along with resistor chunks.

A small scratch or nick can cause that too, look everything over very good. I even took some 1500 and then 2000 sand paper to my injection lines before, to make them mate better, po of my truck must of overtightened them to much and I had tiny burs where the line meets cross over tube. But in your case if you moved injectors and miss moved with it then it does sound like an injector issue. I would almost pull it apart and make sure there is nothing on the end of the niddel where it seats in nozel and look inside the nozel. Use carb clean and air to blow back through tiny holes and then you can use diesel fuel to assemble.

Why not just buy a seal kit, that seal will be deformed to other pump anyway. Idk if I'd do all that work for a new/used seal, jmo. And hopefully no one else gets that pump and puts it on to discover a giant leak. Plus you'll need 2 smaller orings for the case where bolts go through.

I wonder if they took it upart at customs to see if anything is hidden inside They ran great in my truck that's what's wired, they have about 6k on them. I would of never sold them if I knew there was something wrong with them. My apologies and hope it's something simple. You can take it apart and see if there is any dirt in there, just make sure you put shims back the way they come out. Torque is around 32ft/lb

No, I didn't have low speed because motor bushing was sticky and resistor was in pieces. I did get my original motor to work again after few drops of oil to bushings. I kept it as a spear as it looked like it was better quality then the one from rockauto.

I just got blower motor and resistor from Rock Auto, I got the most expensive ones that they offer. Motor came with the cage/blower. only had it on for few weeks, so far no problems.

It a gear splitter, like in big rigs

I drop injectors in, put tubes in, put hold down straps on and snug them very little 10in/lb maybe, then I put all lines on and snug them about half way, then I torque hold down straps to 90 in/lb, then snug lines rest of the way. Everything is well oiled. Edit Make sure none of your crossover tubes are nicked on mating surfaces

Will he need new copper washers then if he losenes injectors. one other thing I found helpful is to put oil on the nut threads and where it touches injector line to keep it from binding.

If you take engine number off that Cummins plate, then call Cummins they should be able to tell you what it came out of.

Something is shorted out, I've seen people use something like a choke cable for the fuel solenoid arm. Pull it all the way out truck runs push it in truck shuts off, also if you apply a little bit of throttle on startup it'll fire up a lot quicker than just cranking on it. Edit There is a rubber boot that protects that plunger, with time it rips and let's dirt and moisture in causing it to hang up, you could try pulling it out cleaning it maybe apply a little bit of grease on the plunger and see if it starts to work again. They sell an upgraded solenoid that has a larger more powerful solenoid

No kidding, could have fooled me....

Nah that's ok, thank you for your offer though. I really don't see a need for one in my case, I was going to play with one but with my tuning there is no need.

Good one

That's his happy face, come on now... How is that possible, I think I witnessed this before but it sure looks like passenger side How is that possible, I think I witnessed this before but it sure looks like passenger side Even sticker in back window

Wow civilization... Hey your balls are showing

I would definitely run a relay harness if you're putting that much wattage through, you'll probably melt your headlight switch if you don't.

Good to hear it's working out well for you, I think 125f it's ok isn't it ?

It must be his transmission that shifts sideways that gains and extra gear maybe, lol my shifter knob is not perfectly level ether.

I don't really need it either way as I'm relying on quad to do my defueling, I just put a plug where boost elbow used to be in the housing, and hose is just dangling.