Dieselfuture

To finish what I was saying. I just took that gm pump apart and here is the problem, screwdriver is pointing at it. Shaft snapped for whatever reason, guessing it was hydrolocked or something and couldn't take pressure.

Can South Bend make one?

Something like this and some copper line with a tube bender Mastercool 72475

If it's coming from the back then spider gears or limited slip, there is a pin that sometimes works it's way lose. Take pumpkin cover off and inspect.

Want to wrap this thread up by saying I'm very pleased with the quality of Manton products and everything seems to be functioning well including 7x10 vco injectors from dap. No more smoke on start up with using custom top hat seals that are ment for Ford 4.0 v6. Truck is much more responsive and not much more smoke. Seems to be more crisp with higher RPM. Now only time will tell. Edit. Here is what I got from Manton incase someone is wondering. Does it worth the price, idk, but for few more hundred dollars vs competitors it gives you pice of mind, Jmo.

Are you getting 7x10, I just drove my truck today after all the valve train stuff and a set of 7x10 vco set at 320, man I love it. Responsive, not much more smoke on my same dd tune and it goes now like it's wireing tapped but I'm on level 3. Egts seem to be down and engine load too, I know it's because of duration but still. I only put few miles on but so far I love it.

I doubt they're stretched that much, an 1/8" may be but not that much. I think Mike may be right, upgraded version. Need to check the depth and see, if you got little room to spear I'd use them. That or the are for a diferent motor.

Nothing is simple anymore, I hear ya.

So why didn't it disengage, thought out bearing wore or fingers or just from being wore thin

Hey now let the man decide for him self I guess that brings a question, how many miles do these seals go before developing a leak. 370 is very good for a seal, I guess I'd leave it alone then Edit I tend to over think things, so my advice is based on OCD ( whatever that means) I just had a few bad valve seals and instead of simply changing them I spent like 2 grand on parts I didn't need. So yeah, not that bright. But as soon as clear valve covers become available.... ohhh ya

Best is to try different tunes and see which one is working better. Keep in mind some higher timing on tunes, if you don't have studs don't run too much timing. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/185-standard-quadzilla-adrenaline-tunes/ Wire tap is what Mike posted, it adds about 25-30% of power on top of canbus fuel, but with your bigger injectors you may not need it as much. If you do use it setting it around 1400 -1600 will probably be the sweet spot. I just installed 7x10 and not really planning on using wiretap as I can probably get good power just from injectors. Just took out 75hp injectors and most of time I stayed on level 3. Reason I went with 7x10 is my Turbo, it want more fuel, I was maxing out canbus rather quickly half way through the map. Just download some tunes closest to your mods and you can fine tune from there.

Now you tell us

I would do rear main since yore in there.

If it's off center, your pinion bearings are probably shot.

Which clutch did you go with, part #

Wells best of luck to you, let us know the outcome. And I left few drops on my table of that pioneer stuff for few days and it was steel wet. Unless it's anaerobic, means it cures under pressure with no air.

I try take lots of pictures as no one seems to believe me CGI

You'll probably not have that build up as your seals are tight to the seat and all carbon would go right through in side valve cover. Reason I say that is your truck probably didn't see much abuse in early life so seals had time to wear in place. So later when you went with more boost and egts seals had enough blow by to let gasses through. I'm just thinking out loud here. Best thing to do imo is to machine the head to accept Top Hat style seals that were ment for these heads on later models. That way it's tight to the seat with no gap and will never blow off. But in situations like mine or @mossyoak71 it may be worth while. It's a big maybe as I won't know end results, if truck runs fine and doesn't burn oil. At that point carbon can be building up in void space and wearing down guides, but I'll never know unless I take it all upart to inspect. I was going to use some metal lock or lions head to try and glue the original seal down but I kept thinking about what if some of that stuff gets on a valve and goes in a guide, what then. So I'm trying this and if all else fails and I'll ruin something, then the head is going to machine shop anyway, so I'll just have them machine it for the right seals then. Now it's hurry up and wait.

Got seals and springs installed. I used top hats on exhaust side and regular on intakes as all of intake seals were not damaged. On top hat seal there is only one lip that rides on a valve and that is so it wipes more oil, since these seals are from a gasser EPA doesn’t want gasses to use any oil. So what I did is removed the little spring that holds tension to valve stem. On to another potential problem. Seals that were popped up had carbon/soot built up in the gap inside the seal, where it had airdog space. I want to blame exhaust brake for that but not sure, please let me know your thoughts. So the top hats I'm using are not designed for this head and it will have a little gap at the top as they are a little bit taller (yes there's plenty of clearance left for retainers) so I'm guessing soot will try to accumulate in that pocket and may cause premature wear on guide/valve, unless I quit using EB if that's the cause. Let me hear your thoughts. See how much soot built up, and valve was sticky because of it.

Call Zack at http://www.northamericanturbo.com He built my 62/67/12 I'm happy

Congratulations man , wife got you taken her to the mall already, she may like it enough you'll be buying another one for her with automatic. Are you doing morimoto's retrofit, I thought those newer trucks came with projectors already.

Which fuses do you pull to keep batteries from draining

That would be my next choice whenever my fass fails, but according to fass I should have it till I retire as much as I drive the truck.