Dieselfuture

Ok thanks, who is manufacturer. I talked with Matt at dap he said about same thing and recommended their brand of springs and pushrods top of picture. Unless somehow I can buy from Hamilton or some place, sounds like that's who they might be getting theirs from. But once again if I'm only saving few bucks I don't mind paying them a little extra for the effort. Now if they are doubling money I would go to manufacture. Idk head still hurts

I see, that's just piece of thread from rag, not a crack, I can sleep better now. Do you have diferent cam or pushrods or just springs, I wonder if I even need all that. If i call place that sells parts, I'm sure they'll tell me I need all of it lol. I see dap has some springs and pushrods, is there anything to chose from for my set up, not trying to go much over 500hp. Will be getting 7x10 injectors and now seeing that there is a choice of valve seals like top hat one number for both intake/exhaust 4991571 my local Cummins said that about $2 a piece, has anyone used these. Another number is 3955393 not sure the difference. Wonder if they are shorter maybe https://puredieselpower.com/dodge-products/03-07-dodge-5.9l-cummins-exhaust-valve-seal.html#/product/8557

Do you by a chance have heavier springs and pushrods for higher RPM, sorry if I'm off topic. I'm trying to solve my smashed valve seals issue.

Is there a way I could be floating valves at higher RPM and that's what chewed up my seals? Maybe I should put heavier springs in if that would eliminate the problem. On the rare occasion I will go just over 3000 RPM, most of the time I get to 22-2400. Just seems like it was fine for most of the year since I put it all together and latly I've been abusing it more often. Wonder if if it's possible to ruin seals if I floated valves, my common sense says yes. Edit. And what brand/type springs do I need for my mild set up. I'm tagging your lazy buts sorry, I want answers now @trreed@Me78569@jlbayes Any input from someone that done this is appreciated, thank you gents. Forgive me for my language just trying to resolve this

Thanks for your quick reply. Sounds like 7x10 is the winner. Now I just got to figure out my smashed valve seals. Please post up your Dyno numbers, I'm sure everyone is curious to see, including me.

Sounds good thanks for sharing, you might of just answered my question on what size injectors I should go with. I'm trying to decide between 7x10, 7x11, 7x12 vco with my hybrid 62/67/12 and don't want to run hot. How's your set up, do you like it, where do you start your canbus at. I'm starting to think 7x10 should be a good place but what do I know lol.

If I can figure this out and hope I don't need to take head off again to maybe shave guides down so retainers don't beat on seals, I'd like to get bigger injectors at least 7x10 but thinking 7x12 or even 7x11 just need help deciding. I'm probably going with vco and my current ones are 8x something according to dap they were 75-85 hp roughly. So my question is can my turbo (62/67/12 hx35/40 mix/machined) do it without high egts, I know now if I lag it a bit I can easily see 1300ish on pyro. So if I go bigger like 7x12 will egts be out of control. I understand that I can tune some of it out but if I detune it what's the purpose of bigger injectors. I know @Me78569 ran 7x12 with his custom tuned turbo with no issues but not sure how my set up will work. Maybe 7x10 is all I need but I've spent money twice already on injectors and constantly hearing diferent opinions. Twins would be ideal but not in budget at the moment, too many things to catch up on. I guess I can just put my injectors back in and call it a day too, just thought dap can make rework my 60hp set to something bigger while I'm in there. Head hurts, thanks for input.

Not sure what crack, I'm confused. And binding on stock springs, what do you mean. Is it compressed too much for a stock spring/cam , maybe I have an aftermarket cam idk. Im kinda angry right now about this whole deal, first changing guides with only 154k on motor now seals are shoot after 6k and not all about half, valve lash seemed right at 8/18 where I had it. I'm getting to a point with this pos now where all I seem to do is fix it, thinking just changing seals sell it and get something like a Tundra, that's all I need anyway. If i pull injectors I'd like to get 7x11 or 7x12 in there but if this problem comes back in 6k again then there is obviously something wrong with clearances. It looks like seals got beat up by spring retainers. Just frustrated at the moment. Sorry for the rent. I need a drink, too hot out for this.

So I took valve cover off and found that half of exhaust valve seals are ripped, not sure if it happened when they assembled the head or something caused them to fail later. Rotating motor over have plenty of clearance( ok edit here, maybe not on a closer look). I'm pissed now as this shop never had a bad reputation. So I guess I'm going to be calling them tomorrow and see what they say. Ether way this sucks as I have to remove all rockers and then readjust valves. But probably not a bad thing ether, maybe I'll retorque my head gasket while I'm there. Another question, is there a way or a tool to remove one spring at time to avoid removing injectors? Or am I stock pulling them out too? On closer look springs get collapsed quite a bit, maybe not enough clearance?

You right, I'm not sure what I was thinking. It's funny I even posted this as many engines as I've tore apart, but that's why I started this post, because you know, stupid is stupid does....

I've mentioned this in few of my replies but now it's getting worse. It actually stumbled for a bit today when it blew some smoke out. It definitely smells like oil. I'm not loosing any antifreeze but it does seem to use a little bit of oil, I heard the oil I use (Cen-Pe-Co) is known for that so didn't think nothing of it. Last summer I did head gasket and new guides in head. So my guess is ether a seal was faulty or a guide not true that ruined a seal prematurely. I don't think it's the turbo seal because engine runs rough and if it was exhaust seal on turbo I don't think it would change how engine runs. Is there anything else I'm missing that can cause mostly white/lightly grey smoke on start up that smells like oil. I know an injector can do this but why oil smell. If it was rings I would assume it would run like that all the time, but after initial start it's fine till it sits for a while. Definitely acts like a valve seal. Another question, if piston is at TDC on compression stroke will all valves sit on top of piston while I remove springs and keepers, and go back together. I think I know the answer but want to be sure before I get in it.

Someday everyone will have to decide for themselves where to draw the line, you either will be part of it or not and it will be very difficult to go through life for those that will choose not to be part of it. Hard to explain but it's already happening slowly. Those that know what I'm talking about, know what I'm talking about.

Is it better, worse different pattern?

Kind of does sound like a rod bearing, but before I say that for sure, I would check bearings on everything that's driven by serpentine belt. I have a fan one time that alternator bearing went out and made sound just like that. Could also be maybe torque converter loose or something along them lines. Basically hopefully something simple. Edit Maybe just take serpentine belt off and drive it a little bit, just remember you have no cooling or charging

I am now waiting for my tires to wear out so I can downsize to 265, I know it's still tall but should see improvement over 285. Maybe I'll just sell them and get a set sooner . For what I do, I'm not going any smaller, not yet at least.

That's the only time I seem to piss someone off and flash me with high beams, I try to stay calm and not flash them back, but I did few times just for a moment to show them I was using low beam

I want to hear more

Lol, those in need already know everything about you and everyone else, it's just there this world is heading

Any codes, have you changed apps sensor yet to Timbo, check vac at alternator, ground mods

Does this mean you started your canbus at 70 with 0 psi and increased from there

Man has it been that long..... I feel like it came out few months ago, we used to sing it with windows down cruising around town lol

Some where!!! Is it going to have antigravity system so you can float over potholes and rough terrain

I wasn't making fun of you, but of how this world works. More less agreeing with you.

I see where you're going with this lol

Yeah, because they're not in demand yet lol