Dieselfuture

Does is matter what gear you're in? I wouldn't think so but just wondering. I drove to Chicago the other day and there was lots of construction and just slow traffic, usually I'm really close with mpg and gallons used but this time it was off by about 1.5 ml. Not a big deal if usually don't drive in traffic like that.

You don't want to know, and I don't want to say. No more from me on these subjects.

Sometimes if I'm concerned about rust after cleaning a ground like under frame someplace I paint it with few coats. Connection is already made and there is no way paint will get in between ring terminal and body/bolt where it's tight, pressure is great there, but it will fill in all voided areas. Jmo.

No not really, I never researched what them things are called. Just thought it looked like a black hole sucking stuff in if there is such a thing. If i would to make my own I'd call it that

Your steering wheel may slightly be off but it should not affect how your tires are on the road. It's very simple to adjust too.

you still have factory apps I would definitely get a Timbo it's here in store on this site. Grid's do cause issues by overloading the alternator, @Mopar1973Man has proved that now beyond shadow of a doubt in my mind. Some members here don't even use them anymore and just plug block heater in, or you can always get an aftermarket alternator that is capable to keep up with demand. Some other mods might be required to do that. 0.03 is where I was almost at before doing round mod, now I'm at 0.018 but .03 should not cause any problems for the most part

I would have to say it does make a difference as all the Big Boys run without filters and what looks to be a black hole attachment " I should patent that name for that purpose ha ha" I would have to guess anything over 600 hp is where bhaf will be struggling and I wouldn't put any other filter on.

I was mainly speaking off members that are active on this form, and in no way I wanted to be a smart with my comment. Sometimes people interpret wrong meanings with text messages I wanted to make sure I didn't make it sound like anyone is better than anyone else. We're still all learning, it amazes me after all these threads and forms we're still finding new discoveries and things to talk about. Either way I'm glad your truck is running better, now on to the next thing... @Mopar1973Man Mike you need a new smiley for v2 tuning, so we're not blowing black smoke but rather living tire marks.

Yeap, most of us did this, and it's not easy to explain sometimes until you do it yourself then you start to realize. I've been there.

Is your apps original, if so get a timbo one it's all mechanical, way cheaper, and works way better. Also oil pressure sensor on rare ocasion can go bad causing short in a 5v loop. I was chasing some problems myself and changed it just because.

I just started my truck and had my kid wiggle the steering wheel it was enough for me to see wore out tire rods. And ball joints you do need to have jack stands or a jack under the axle, have tire few inches off the ground and put long pry bar under a tire as you wiggle it up and down. I have a slight movement up and down on mine, I'm calling at good for now. They say lower ball joint should not move up down left right, and upper is allowed to move up and down a little bit. But obviously if a lower ball joint is good you will not be able to see the upper move up and down.

Oh man, I even reread it before submitting, it's getting out of control now ha ha

Sounds like something is going on with your 5-volt Loop

You need to go through your truck with some dielectric grease on all the multi plugs and cycle them a few times to make sure you get it all over the prongs. Then do the ground mods that everyone has been doing and just check all your wires in genital. Weak loose connections cause a lot of problems

Not the best pictures just had these saved here already. It's the red color bar that's partly painted black. There is a piece of angle bracket to support the bar up top. Kind of looks like chicken weld, but I promise @dripley had nothing to do with it.

I basically took my original wore out bar, cut the ball off and welded a dom piece of tube 1/4" thick with some extra support and the hole size to match lower bushing, went to part store and got a life time poly bushing for 10$ then made a bracket and welded it to frame where ball used to be. Then I got a 1 1/4" fine thread bolt about 4" long and 3 nuts, cut out a 4" section out of track bat in the middle and welded bolt to one end and nuts to the other. Took about half a day and 40-50$ to do it. There are some details I left out but that's the idea, been like that for some time now. I was cheap at that time.

So did I, I tried eliminating any quick connect on ground side and solder all joints and just going to battery or body or frame on whatever I come across now with ring soldered terminals. If i have to take it off its a bolt or a nut instead of a plug now. The only plugs I still use are multy plugs and they are all full of dielectric grease. And my 175amp plugs I put front/back for winch or jumper cables. If you use these plugs you have to put grease in them too so the metal plates that hold terminals in place don't rot away, for some reason they are not stainless steel. Terminals are fine but not where they clip in. Just in case someone is using them. Also plastic plug needs to be cleaned of mud, if it gets in a plug and freeze it cracks that plastic, yeah leave and learn. This is what I'm speaking off https://m.ebay.com/itm/4-175A-Battery-Quick-Connect-Wire-Harness-Plug-Disconnect-Winch-Connector-Kit-/152600677058?txnId=1749285061005

Not disagreeing with using same bolt for both, good idea. I guess I already had body and engine grounded with extra cables so I went straight to battery. Ether way it will work good. Not even sure why I mentioned how I did it, didn't mean to confuse anyone.

Sorry for the late reply, prayers from Iowa. Hope you guys are doing well.

Yes, but the idea is to get rid of unneeded possibly weak ground connections. I didn't even go to the case of the engine I went straight to the negative of driver's side battery, but I do have extra ground wires bonding entire truck.

I would get an adjustable track bar kit that fits on 2nd gen it does use third gen track bar but the bracket is custom to work on 2nd gen. It uses bushings on both ends versus a ball joint, and it's important to adjust it so the axle is centered over the frame, because with time front springs will sag, constantly putting tension on that track bar and wearing out ball joint prematurely. Jmo. On tightening up gear box they say you don't want to go over 1/2 a turn, if that's not enough of adjustment then it needs other adjustment and possibly a rebuilt. @Mopar1973Man do you think you were over half a turn over the life of your gearbox on adjusting it. Just curious how far a guy can go before running into issues. I did 1/2 on mine but there's still a clunk somewhere, I believe it's a lose bearing inside a gearbox.

It goes straight to passenger side positive terminal and nothing goes to PDC where the fuse is at. You could use that empty PDC spot for something else like lift pump or axillary power for whatever.

Plus laser receipts fadeout out over time

Do lights go out when you turn cruise control off, I don't know of the problem but just wondering.