Dieselfuture

I've witnessed that invention about 30 years ago, my grandfather used to work at the steel factory and they had a thing that looks like a loop mounted to the wall and whatever you stick inside that Loop got white hot in matter of seconds, but it was cool to the touch. I know because after he got done hitting up a piece of pipe he made me touch the loop, I was freaking out but sure enough it was cold. I believe that's also how new wireless chargers work for phones and random gadgets.

Ok here it is, friend of my wife had an oil change done. Right a way she noticed noise coming from engine and she went back to WALMART which I worked here about not to change oil there. They said it was fine so she called me. Ether way it sounded to me like timing chain was rattling and since she just changed oil in pulled dip stick to make sure there is oil in there (which was over filled) so next thing I looked at filter and sure enough it's FRAM I went part store got a Wix problem went away. Her car needed oil pressure for timing chain tensioner, for whatever reason fram was holding back. She got lucky no damage was done. Friend of mine used fram on his truck and spun a rod bearing, not saying fram did it but I'd like to think so.

Don't ever say fram, what a piece of garbage. Had bad experience with that myself, on someone's vehicle I was working on. FRAM is JUNK....!!!!!!!

Ha ha that's exactly what I did, on my daily tune if I tow and hold rpm higher and then load% shifts down engine starts to rattle to much from high timing like someone is there with a hammer bitting on it. So I pretty much left everything alone and just reduced timing by few degrees, I may need to reduce canbus a little to keep egts down some. I was just curious, but it's amazing how much it can change just by changing timing

@Mopar1973Man what is your current towing tune, have you modified your old one. Just curious now that you've hauling your rv.

Not sure if it's possible for vp gear to jump a tooth with pump out, but that would definitely decrease power.

O that sucks, mine are starting to look pretty sad too. When I first bought my truck I took a hammer and whacked them and a few layers of rust come off. Then I put a coat of paint on there, but I think it's been long enough I might be changing them out before they let go.

Is it still safe to assume it's wireing when the problem started after swapping ECM. Maybe just by moving ECM plug something went wacky like @dripley is experiencing, or a new ECM is just got problems and not communicating.

Well I might of spoke to soon. Today out of nowhere my tach on dash went to 0 and I got check engine light, but my quad was still showing rpm. Then it came back to life, checked the code it was 1698. Shut the truck off cleared the code and it hasn't come back yet. I also noticed if my mpg switch is in mpg mode that's when it's triggering odd things, which it never did with original ecm and another thing that is different is before if I didn't have switch in mpg mode wts light took much longer now it's about same time with it on or off. So I'm thinking something is corrupted in this new ECM but idk. @Mopar1973Man any ideas.

Use a big garbage bag to drape over valve cover in the back then lift it up under windshield wipers, before you take cover off.

Yeah what he said ^^^^ on a low speed farm truck maybe that never sees hwy.

I had a BHAF on for 4 years now and about 30k, still good why throw it away. But I'm at the point where I might change it just because. As for filter is bought a case of 12 Donaldson blue dbl7349 like @AH64ID recommend, thank you. Oil, I'd love to use amsoil which I did for a while but now using cenpeco, localy made in iowa, a lot of guys that tractor pool here use it and lots of agricultural eqipment, but it does seem to use some of it. When I'll use it all up i might go back to amsoil 15-40 heavy duty ame.

Ok an update and sorry to OP I don't mean to clutter your thread, just felt like i need to finish my story. Got my spar newly flashed ecm in and at first it had some codes, maybe previously stored in it or maybe because I had Mike's mpg switch set on mpg. And wait to start light took a very long time to go away, so I shut the ignition switch off and cleared codes, put switch in off position and wts light went off very fast next time like the switch was still in mpg mode. Started it up and no new codes except grid heaters which are disconnected. Ran great and high 6 and 3 cylinder high idle works perfect, so they can flash it on. And to answer my question if 3cyl cold idle what they call it covers 6 and 3 high idle, then yes it does. One thing though I was on level 0 on quad after disconnecting batterys and default tune so when high idle kicked in it killed the truck, I freaked out that something is wrong but realized I needed to turn quad high idle off. So once I did, it worked perfect. Drove around, checked codes and all good to go, so I'm pretty happy with outcome. To OP, I hope you figured out your problem.

You might be able to squeeze 6qt in on the side but not 8 like i did even with cooler and filter, it's well above the fill hole. Taking shifter off is not hard and you get to see inside and nice massive gears. But to each their own.

Not sure if this is right. Make sure to use a good meter, cheap ones will read high in range you're indicating. You should see something like this.

That's why I don't care for leather seats, I'll take cloth any day. Let your breathe a little

There's good and bad all how you look at it. I hung drywall for about 10 years in my past life and let me tell you that's demanding work especially when you work for yourself and get paid by square foot. We drank 2- 3 gallons of water a day and never go to the bathroom. Even though it was physically demanding job I was in great shape, I now have a city job and it's about 10th to 15th amount of hard work I have to do here, but it has its benefits also if you don't get lazy and abused it. Most people I've met that work in the office or at any desk job, usually have some sort of health problems. So now having an easier job I still make myself work just so I can exercise my body. I don't make as much money now, but I have some benefits and retirement and constant paycheck. But it's sure nice not to have to sweat all day long. Which some people I work with couldn't even do for a day.

I will be right there Looks like it will be a while, everyone is stopping. Must be some very safe drivers up ahead

I'm using one from Rock Auto at $14 I think, Gates 190f with good results.

You guys creating your own weather like nassholes with their supposed rocket engine tester I thought they were supposed to cycle but very little, mostly staying on. But I do think too much

We have them on our Suburban, I love the idea but I hate the fact that they create bigger blind spot along the pillar A bit unrelated but I like the idea. https://theskeeterbeater.com/how-it-works/

Congrats you'll love them, and mini H1 are still a really good light output and much easier to retrofit if doing it yourself especially first time.

That's a little bit better explanation. I know how this stuff works but sometimes can put it on the paper. And you're right .006 can feel looser than it is. I guess where I was heading with that is, by moving drive shaft back and forth it could seem that you have more play than you actually do.

I believe .006 is directly related to pinion to ring gear lash, but then it will have a bit more play through everything else

I have not, I've been using bmk21 in my Sig for a while now with good results. But many have put lots more miles on with regular oil and one service filter. I definitely noticed oil staying clean longer. And I've just been flushing my filter out instead of changing it. They claim it can go 60k or when it stops flowing, which by then filter should be cold to the touch when engine is worm and running. All I do is after oil change in take my oil fill cap and put it in a drain pan, (my filtered oil return comes back to engine through oil fill cap) then start the engine and run about 2 quarts through it, by then it's usually clean oil coming out.