Dieselfuture

I've had this for few years but never had the need to use it, local CAT service guy gave it to me. They use it in stand by generators that sit with fuel.

I have this https://www.ebay.com/p/OBDLink-MX-Bluetooth-Obd-II-Scan-Tool-Interface/626198486?iid=183238785408&chn=ps&ul_ref=http%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F711-117182-37290-0%2F2%3Fmpre%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.ebay.com%252Fp%252FOBDLink-MX-Bluetooth-Obd-II-Scan-Tool-Interface%252F626198486%253Fiid%253D183238785408%2526chn%253Dps%26itemid%3D183238785408%26targetid%3D400149260393%26device%3Dm%26adtype%3Dpla%26googleloc%3D9018527%26poi%3D%26campaignid%3D1028603671%26adgroupid%3D48124585622%26rlsatarget%3Dpla-400149260393%26abcId%3D1130046%26merchantid%3D118948537%26gclid%3DEAIaIQobChMIr7HTlc_O2wIVCK1pCh2ViQUXEAQYASABEgI1PvD_BwE%26srcrot%3D711-117182-37290-0%26rvr_id%3D1562979301523%26rvr_ts%3Df4fab1e11630a993b556986dfffae6fb for live data/reading codes. You probably don't need mx part just obdlink. I believe mx is for certain gm vehicles.

When I did my pinion seal on my rear end and not because it was leaking from wearing out, it's rusted through on the bottom double shielded metal piece. I got it from Loco Sadler Power Train, they stock Spicer stuff.

I had buking/surging a while back. What solved mine was rebuilt alternator(brushes armature etc) putting more ground wires for bonding (before I did ground mod mentioned above) and finally new injectors. All of that seemed to contribute to the problem. Just did ground mod and just like @dripley it got cut in half, we'll worth it..

Idk, but I heard of headlight switches burning up internally and causing some weird wiring issues

How corroded are your lines, if it's just surface rust I wouldn't worry about it. They are double wall with some type off rubber in between.

@IBMobile where do you find all this pictures , or you sitting in fotoshop making them up

The more I think about it it's probably not the clutch or pilot bearing, I wonder if something internally could of got loose causing only one of the gears to shift harder. I almost want to say something with shifting forks or something similar, I even heard of top cover with forks malfunctioning or as simple as shifting tower bushing. Now that you made both parties aware of a problem, maybe drive it for a while and see if it wears in place. Like mentioned before check oil, maybe change it to diferent brand just to see if it helps, never know. Try over filling it a quart by having truck jacked on one side. 6 spd needs at least one extra qt I run 2 extra in mine, 5 speed should be fine just full. @Mopar1973Man is using different oil in his with good results try that oil maybe.

Sometimes wires rub on rear sway bar and ground out

Agree ^^^^ could be a faulty pilot bearing, assuming shop changed it like supposed to. Some may say, ahh looks good put it all back together. Mine does it too on colder tranny in 3rd just enough to let me know it's not right, but once everything is warmed up seems okay. Idk if it has anything to do with fluid (check yours) or pilot bearing gets wormer and works better. Some day I'll have to pull it out and figure it out, but have so many other things I need to do. Good luck with shops it is not fun dealing with that crap.

I think mothballs of something like that works

Slow cranking with good batteries could be, weak starter may need contact plunger kit, or brushes could be loose battery cables and dirty grounds. As for applying some throttle on start up, it does help to start quicker. When I had my 12 valve I used to do that too, but also you might want to check the fuel solenoid for sticking. They get old and rubber boot falls apart then moisture gets in and rust them up

I just spent good 30 or so minutes on the phone with https://autocomputerspecialist.com And from what I understand for testing purposes you could put a different ECM in but it has to be pretty close four years and options, they did not recommend driving it that way. I do not believe they Vin lock themselves, that's a smarty thing.

So I went ahead and sent my donor ECM to https://autocomputerspecialist.com to flush it so I can use it on my truck. I have my reasons for why I need 2 ECMs. When speaking with them on the phone (Bob and Dee) very nice and helpful. I was further explained that they are one of few that are allowed to reprogram ECM, PCM etc. To work on different vehicles. I also mentioned mopar1973man.com site and how latly few members here had good experience with them. They said that they also refer a lot of people to this site for abundance of information on Cummins vehicles and that @Mopar1973Man him self has spoke with them . Another thing I found out is that they can only enable 3/6cyl high idle (cold idle) on automatics and not manual so I guess I'll still need a smarty to activate mine, on a good side I gave them number on the radiator support sticker, where it said my ECM been flashed and it turns out to be latest flash. Bottom line is for $150 plus I paid $18 in shipping to them I'll have a spear ECM that couldn't been done at dealer. This is their sale price. They actually have reman ECMs right now for $700 programmed to your vehicle, all you need is send your core back. Also they informed me not all ECMs can be flashed to work on all trucks, so they recommend calling them first and given them all the info before sending anything in. Unless you just sending yours for a repair, then you fill out some questions/info and you're good. I got lucky and my truck built date is 10-01 and donor was 07-01 even 3 mouths apart software is different, but for testing purposes they said I could plug it in and at least start the truck, but was not recommended to drive loke that.

Better send your ecm to https://autocomputerspecialist.com/shop-now?olsPage=products While sale is on this week. And then figure out why you burned out lift pump circuit, more then likely the cause mentioned above. Also check all your grounds and alternator.

I'm not even sure how to tell but here are few pictures bag is old that my 75hp came in, I wrote 60hp before I forgot.

I'd have to see if I can figure out what I have, sac or vso. I'll take a picture later on and post it. But knowing what I know now I would also go with vco.

Thanks for explaining that a little bit better, and yes I tend to overthink stuff.

That is a much better design, but if a wheep hole is plugged fuel will still force it's way passed a seal that is in the motor part. Unless they installed that seal with a lip/spring facing pump and not motor then it may work, assuming they used a seal and not oring. Idk I'm just thinking out loud here.

@Mopar1973Man @IBMobile my truck is not broke down and both ecms are fine, at least the one in my truck seems fine but I had some surging going on in passed and now that alternator is in good shape and grounds been addressed i wanted to make sure it's not corrupted. And my spair ecm I got of a running truck with 180k on it is just that a spear, I got it for a decent deal just to have it. So I want to make sure my ecm is fine and won't leave me stranded and also need to activate 3/6cyl high idle on both ecms assuming spear one is not enabled aready. And also spear ecm needs to be checked and flushed so it can work on my truck unless it can the way it is idk, all options on donner truck were same as mine just a year older. So for $120 for each ecm is getting close to a used smarty for $300 that I can always sell or I can rent one from Dap and do both of ecms with a current flash and activate idle, but that still won't tell me if they are good. Reason I want to check mine is from previous surge i had that after fixing alternator and changing injectors went a way but occasionally it will surge a little and my tachometer is a little bouncy (I did change cam sensor just because) so I believe there might be slightly problem with my current ecm. I know it's stupid to spend money on having mine checked without any codes or major issues but I have that filling that something isn't right with it. Thanks for your input.

What kind of pump. Does it plug in to trucks wiring harness where your factory pump was. When starting the truck don't power on your pump, i a VP44 doesn't like pressure on startups. Lift pump needs to run as soon as truck starts.

Funny you mention ww2 is that from turbo lab, I was considering it but after some more reviews decided to have http://www.northamericanturbo.com built me a 62/67/12 it does what I need. And with quad v2 I could use some 150 -200 hp injectors and tune accordingly, I'm not sure about xzt. If you don't want to change anything but injectors I would go with 60 or 75hp no bigger. I believe mods you have should be fine for smaller injectors. Edit : I have a set of 60hp from dap with about 10k on them I'll sell them for 1/2 of what dap does if you're interested, I have new washers and orings for them too. I got 75hp from them now but thinking about getting 150s. PM me if you want.

I could have swore I seen them say something about 1 million miles, because they put these pumps on semis, and someone got over a million. I thought it was on Fass site a while back when I bought my pump. And they were also proud of it how it can pump gelled fuel, obviously if fuell has moisture it it, it will just freeze and filters will plug up with gelled fuel more than likely that or they wouldn't flow very well.

I was trying to find that post, I even commented on it but couldn't remember all the info. So sounds like i can definitely use 01 on 02 just need right software from smarty. The only other problem is knowing if my spear ecm is any good. I guess I just need to plug it in my truck and go for a ride, who knows it may not need anything at all, and it could already have high idle enabled. @Mopar1973Man does 01 and 02 use cam sensors only or 01 still had crank sensor. I think that would be the only difference and maby a newer flash.