Dieselfuture

That's a new one to me, I'de be maybe changing ignition switch so it don't leave you stranded someday

Here in Iowa, and yeah good luck getting any info from clerks, or managers. And down to 10 below is a lie most of time as it gets milky around 0

Mishimoto is what I'd get if buying aluminum or get a stock one, maybe rockauto or local parts store, more money but usually life time warranty

Chain stratches over time, I would replace it if it was me. It was a common problem on NP203. On the other hand, for that money I'm not sure if it wouldn't make more sense to get a case from a later model like @TFaoro did. But he also got G56 tranny so not sure if it will fit. I thought if some day I need a new tranny, I'll go that route instead of wasting thousands on rebuilding nv5600 Just an idea.

I average 18 if it's mostly hwy, mix driving 17 or so sometimes a little less, but it's not easy for me to get over 18. If i drive 60-65 that's my best mpg range I believe and few times I've gotten 20+ towing around 10k I get 13-14 just depends. When I got my truck it had 295 something 16 and they were wider and a little taller then my current ones. I wanted to get toyo in extreme size 275/75/17 but they were out of stock which now I'm glad I didn't, so I got 275/70/17. With 295s I was probably 1-1.5 mpg less all across, but it's hard to tell as I started playing withe the quad and ran tunes with higher timing with original v1 tunes. My next set will be 265/70/17 for less wear and tear and a bit better ratio. I don't think I'll ever put 235s or 245s on just because.

Idk how you guys do it in Texas or Florida for that matter, it's hot enough here in Iowa. I want to move North some day.

We're all anxious to hear your AC results, mine went from 0.032 to 0.018 vac with all accessories off Edit I'm still planning on redoing grounds closer to ECM like @dripley was pointing out and the issues he had in that area. Maybe you can incorporate that mod into this article also.

150 with draw straw. Straw needs to be installed correctly to work properly. Or you can modify fuel basket with draw straw 5 kit or buy a complete updated busket. Everything needs to be in 1/2" no chock points to work best, accept the return from back of the head and injectors that stays the same. https://www.genosgarage.com/product/vulcan-ds5/fuel-system-accessories-replacement-parts this kit only works with baskets that had fuel pump retrofitted from frame rail to basket. Airdog comes with quick-connect fittings that should work with this http://www.vulcanperformance.com/mobile/Product.aspx?ProductCode=FMDSOE

I guess it all comes down to, if something ever happens in traffic then the insurance of whoever may say certain things about it, because it was not original/ mortified. I often wonder about my homemade bumpers out of quarter inch steel. If something happened they'll say you caused more damage because you didn't have a flimsy factory one designed to take impact and absorb the shock.

How do you get a way having 4 link on the street, it's illegal around here, but most cops don't know that themselves. So maybe that's how lol.

I heard that they wear out too, but not sure how. I held one in my hands trying to figure out how it works lol

10 psi wot doesn't sound too healthy after all I've read

If fuel pressure is ok, next step would be injectors

I would be getting a better higher flow fuel pump if it was me, then it be much better, jmo.

Spotters

I heard that before but always thought it happened because of wear on keepers or something, didn't think that hard I guess. Thanks for explaining it.

That and I guess there are hotter spots then others, I don't know for sure but I heard that. Just didn't want you to put a hole in a wrong place.

Better make sure you're drilling it and tapping it in the right place

I'm at 155-160 for off set, should be close for you

Yeah I'm done with China garbage, unless it's from Harbor Freight where I can take it back or exchange it. Even then I only buy certain things there.

I would recommend @Dynamic I never personally dealt with him, but he is a smart man from what I can tell and will do it right the first time. Few guys on here will second that. If I had automatic that's who I would send it to.

Did not know that, I would of thought it would even out with wear and stay same not get tighter

Could you elaborate more on this please

Same here, just wrote them another email last night. Good thing it was only a few bucks. First time they replied that they will send another since first one never showed up, well second one never showed up either no response, nothing I'm done buying from China sellers on eBay. Funny thing this was first time I even tried buying anything from China

My drag link on Mopar kit from Rock Auto still has about 1/2" of gap for adjustment, no need for shaving. it may depend on frontend sagging overtime, I have new plow package springs on front of mine to support my bumper. Or maybe we have different pitman arms. I did hear of some people have to make it shorter and others don't.