Dieselfuture

Just did my upgrade few days ago, pads are not wore to new rotors yet but I can tell difference already. And what a difference it is when you put pads side by side. I got brackets from orily parts store they were $23 a pice plus $5 core, one of them was original dodge with numbers and Chrysler stamp and the other was brand new with new machined surfaces. I think Chrysler one is used and sandblasted and new one is from china. But both fit perfect and are beefy. I didn't realize how wore my pads were and rotors had pretty deep grove on both sides and huge lips. Had to clean and grease sliders really good. I highly recommend this to anyone that is going to change rotors and pads, what's another $60 for brackets, no need for calipers. Get it done you won't regret it, and when you look at it side by side you'll wonder why you didn't get it done sooner.

I've been running 7qt in mine for 5k now now problems so far, make sure vent is clean. On axles too, some people change their seals just to leak again.

I think it's because air god 150 is cycling so much volume of fuel it doesn't matter. On my truck if it's 20 out it will take 15-20 min before pressure rises, and if 0 it will stay pretty low unless fuel is treated and not gelling. Last yeah when it got below 0 I didn't even bother starting it, I have a sample of fuel in clear glass jar sitting out side and if it's gelled it's pointless to rape the truck.

I have qwad, and had same problem, changed injectors immediately went away, a year later it's back. Not sure if I'm helping but keep us posted.

You guys are funny, that's why I like it.

Yes it does Tom, but at least when I'm on this forum people feel my pain unlike some creatures in this world. Some day when I'm gone she'll realize what she had, just like my grandma. Keeps bringing my grandpa up. But they used fight a little just like everyone else. I can tell she sissies him now. Part of life I guess.

I'm retesting my alternator tomorrow, thanks for all hard work!

We'll that didn't last long, got it running great and of course my darling wife had to ***** about it, so had to let it go for pretty much what I put in it. Just went and spent a bunch of money on the one I'm allowed to keep.

I got mine from genos because Vulcan didn't have it or I couldn't find them there. This is what I got, Item Number: ISS-R6823R2 Item Number: ISS-R6804R Item Number: ISS-R3807GR And also got a dash pod that I mounted closer to me and not by the windshield, and told them to keep fuel isolator and saved like $80 bucks but had to talk them in to it and also it's not covered under warranty, but for that I can buy another gauge.

It should, that's a good idea. Next time I take dash out ill do something similar. Some sort of leather, so it will look good when armoralled.

That's cool I wish we had more snow here. Just gets cold most of time and not a lot of snow.

True but I'm a cheap *** sometimes. But just gave dentist $1500 for an hour of work.

If I may, I still got summer fuel in my tank and here in iowa past few weeks was cold. My pressure went to 15 from normal 19-20 and if I park it at work in heated garage when I go home it's back at 19-20. I think it's as simple as Mike says nothing you can do but warm fuel up somehow. Even if I take of from home and pressure is only 15 by the time I get to work it will clime to 18. Goes through IP and returns to tank a bit wormer.

If this helps, I fixed my dash with some plastic glue where broke, then sand down entire underside of dash with like 60 grit, used fiberglass hair like green resin on first layer and then put another 3 of clear liquidy stuff with mash material. It was a bit messy but didn't take to long, put extra hardener and only takes 20 or so minutes to set up. I basically field it to top of ribs on inside and some over. Been about a year now holding up good from what I can tell. You can still see fine lines but they're all as one. I might have $50 in it, and have left over fiberglass. To take dash out is easy ones you figure it out. Few screws from bottom in middle are hidden, only put one of them back in for future, and if you take it out keep vent tubing bolted to dash cover instead of trying to find all screws that you can't see that hold it to cover. I actually left all vent work on dash when did fiberglass that way it kept it's curved shape and some pieces together. One problem I had was smell from resin that took a good mount to come out. Burns your eyes. Have fun. Just figured out how to post pictures, so here are few. Not sure how long it's going to last but sofa so good.

I heard 30% increase over 2nd gen, and if I pull a trailer with no trailer breakers few times I almost got pushed though an intersection. So hopefully this will help. But if I drove like an old man probably wouldn't matter. Plus I noticed I got some heat cracks on pads from abusing them. To me it's a cheap upgrade, I need pads and rotors anyway what's another $60 for brackets.

Agreed.

Have you tested it in a wind tunnel ? Just kidding.

I agree with you, I just ordered 4 belstines from ebay it was best deal I could find and looks like guy sold a lot of them, so hoping their not fake Chinese.

If I understood right these are reman dodge parts, maybe sandblasted and painted. Not sure where they get used parts maybe junkyard. I got some coming I will take a good look at them and post back. I bought brake calipers before that were reman and you could still see dodge amblem stamped in it. I had them on truck for 3 years now so far no problems. My old ones didn't let go fast enought and breaks would get hot and smoking. It was $25 a caliper after core and lifetime warranty.. I hope these brackets will be fine and if I don't like them I'll take them back and order mopar ones.

I just found out that our local parts stores can get these brackets for 25 bucks plus 5 dollar core, and it's cardone who makes it. How good of quality is it do you think?

Cool, Thanks.

Sounds like a lot of people done this, and my breaks are wearing fin. Does anyone know a place to get (5093268 AA and 5093270 AA front caliper brackets). Aside from dealer, I tried researching it but did not come up with much. I think I might buy pads and rotors from local parts store as they have life time warranty on most of their stuff, but brackets might be not as easy to find. Any help appreciated.

I thought white smoke was ether air in fuel, or some sort of moisture.

I'm thinking about 2" level for a front bumper I'm about to make, anyone uses 2" coils from superlift. Any pros and cons. Or should I just see how much front end sags and make my own spacers to compensate for sag. Maybe 1" is all it would take. I don't need it to look level as I agree with Mike, it gets level when in use. And I'm not going to put anything bigger than 285/75/17 Any thoughts or suggestions. I seen some longer control arms but for the cost and what I'm doing it would be a waste of money, if I went 6" then I can see how it would be worth it but all I'm doing is putting on a 200 lb or so bumper on front. I thought if I get 2" coils then maybe I can get air bags for rear, but usually I don't tow anything over 10k and don't need bags at this point. Just brainstorming before I decide which rout to go. Thanks.

If I remember right on dana m80 nut and small metal retainer that pounds in to keep it from turning. 150 ft/lb while turning hub, then back of 1/4 turn. Sadler power train told me that. They built a lot of axles trannys etc. I did it 2 years ago with no problems.