joecool911

My son was in a motorcycle accident on the 4th of July. He's still in the hospital. Nothing broken, but a lot of road rash. He can't come home due to the amount of open wounds. Goin to need skin grafts. Bad situation. Mother told him she didn't want to get a motorcycle. The dreaded 3am call from the authorities. Life flighted to hospital. He should make a full recovery, but probably will have scars. His face is pretty bad. Check out that chunk of meat missing from his left elbow. They had to change the dressing today which has a vac pump to keep swelling down. Even with morphine brought tears to his eyes. There is like a sponge covering the wound and clear tape over that which makes a tight seal for the vacuum to remove any build up of fluid. Trooper though. Pic was taken 4 hours after life flight. Finding out how good the health insurance is. Over $100k so far in hospital bills. Insurance company says $3,750 in out if pocket costs. One of the benefits of Obama care. He's 20 years old and is still covered by his mom and my insurance. Lucky guy for that! Would hate to see a 20 years old with that kind of debt over his head. He's a good kid. Working 2 jobs and going to school for law inforcement. One job is a private cop for a retail establishment. Arrests shoplifters and detains for police. Just lacks adult experiences. He's sure his Harley has a soul. Lol. 1,200 miles on it and wrecked.

Wow, looks pretty simple!

I've got a couple of those little inverters that plug into a cig outlet. They are handy too short of wiring in an inverter. I don't have air conditioning, so I tend to look for a shady spot to camp. Kinda oppose the solar concept.

What are you guys doing to plug the ports on the power steering pump when removing the hoses? Short piece of hose and a bolt in one end and a clamp set of hose clamps?

There are some who still buy buggy whips too. JB Weld is amazing stuff. The mod requires a rice grain bead. I think make sure to use a solvent to remove any residue of transmission fluid for a good bond. I can understand a shop not wanting to rely on a do it yourself fix. I'd do the same. But if you're doing the mod yourself, I think it makes sense.

The buzzing I had quit after eliminating the isolator.

I've got a 1000 watt Honda generator which meets my needs pretty well. Charges batteries and provides A/C when needed. Not sure I use my RV enough to rationalize expense of solar.

I'd look for an automotive electrical shop and have them made. Here in Oregon is ABE. Automotive Battery & Electric. Not positive, but I bet they'd be cheaper than the source above. But no evidence to support it.

Yep, gotcha.

Ok. Maybe I'll do the remove and soak in diesel. I shot some aerosol lube in there. But I'll soak it anyway.

185k. Replace the whole thing with idler wheel or just the tensioner?

I had a client in her 90's. Her quote was, getting old is not for sissies. I used to think it amusing. Now I see the wisdom.

It's no different than sizing pipe for water lines. Too small a pipe and friction lowers gallons available and lowers psi. I think it's easier for us to understand water because it's visual. You'll only get X amount of water out of a pipe. You can up the pressure, but that increases friction and you won't gain much volume. When in doubt, always increase wire size. And when you can afford it, buy marine tinned wire. I've seen green corrosion all the way through wire before. Not just on the ends. Marine wire is better protected.

Not to mention that the smaller cables will not carry the amps necessary to keep your starter happy. You'll see a voltage drop to the starter which lessens the life expectancy.

Prolly was me. I come through that area twice a day.

If you get a filter that accepts the big socket type tool over the end, I get to mine from under the truck with a couple long 3/8 socket extensions and a ratchet.

My serp belt tensioner has rust coming out of it and is throwing rusty residue onto the reservoir bottle and water pump. It looks to be rusty water. No, my radiator fluid is not rusty. Is this a replacement situation or can I remove it and lube? Doesn't appear to be coming from the idler bearing, but rather the tension part.

I used a dia caliper. Looks to be 3.3". Grip range 3-4" looks like it'd work.

What are you using this for?

We typically get 13.5 mpg and as much as 16.5 on a road trip with our 2006 Hemi mega cab. Not so terrible.

Looks like a control center for a nuclear power plant.

Nice thing about the power bleeder is you put on a clear piece of tubing, open the bleeder and run it until you see no bubbles. No messing with a bottle of fluid and pumping the brake pedal. Plus it's a one-man job.

To me, getting the truck off the ground and tires off is half the work. Removing 2 bolts to remove calipers seems pretty easy. Then with the power bleeder, that part is easy too. Rebuilding takes like 15 mins each and $5 in parts per wheel.

I figured the same as you. Especially if you tear them down every 30-40k miles.

Even better to know with a test gauge exactly what you're setting it out. The one I got from Vulcan has a long enough hose that I can see the gauge while adjusting the raptor. Just make sure your warm so that the full voltage is at an operating level and grid heater is not cycling on and off. Since I removed the isolator and plumbed directly to the gauge, my raptor has been rock solid. I got a snubber and a needle valve to buffer pressured to the cage.