joecool911

Doesn't get any better than that.

They do it for RV waste tanks.

On the opposite side of the equation, how hard would it be to put a timer on the lift pump to run for a while post engine shutdown? To cool the VP? On vehicles that have aftermarket pumps there is a relay added to the wiring to the frame mounted pump. Should be able to tap a line anywhere along the run to do a disconnect switch.

I suppose. But not many vehicles are seatbelt built into seats. Edited. Boy the original post came out whacked!

What about the seat belts that are in the seats? Any hope of renewing those?

Here is the extent to my trophy for this year. Pretty dang big mole!

Buddy of mine is in South Africa for a 2 week safari. He shot a zebra with his bow. 4 hour spot and stalk.

What about an alarm system?

What year and options would be considered the Holy Grail of Ram trucks? The one that most would want to buy given many choices. I wish I could have found a 3,500 that is not a dually. I opted for a 2,500 2001.5 with automatic transmission. Hard to find a well cared for truck with manual transmission on the market. I am seeing some of these on craigslist for over $20k. So the $10k I soent for mine will allow for lots of mods before I spend $20k. A straight, well cared for and stock automatic is much easier to find.

I always have a couple pistols with me. One pea shooter and one more serious with 15 rounds.

Time for backer board and tile. My wife and I are getting pretty good at it. Between 2 rentals and out home. We've got a log home, so the encapsulation of tile works good. No drywall in the entire house. Even interior walls are wood. Last rental project. This is all tile @ $1.00 per square foot. In process down to bare wood. Some water damage and new plywood. I elected to run the tile under the new shower pan on the floor.

When I back uphill with a trailer, I use low range. Usually idles rather than struggling in high range. 183,000 original transmission but new torque converter @ 145,000. Regular fluid changes all the way along.

Can't afford to be out of service longer than for the paint to dry. Ain't gunna happen.

You opted for some of the more expensive gauges. Do you feel they are more accurate or reliable than some of the cheaper brands? I see digital gauges for 1/10th the cost. Another thing I've been wondering is if the stock charging wire on our trucks is isolated when the truck is not running? Is it possible to drain the truck battery while hooked up overnight? Should you pull the plug when not driving for extended periods?

Will the charge wire from the truck keep up with the electric usage so you have a full battery when you make it to your destination? For that I like the mod. Any idea about the amps the trailer plug wire has available? I've heard small wire and maybe 15 amps Max. That would put the batteries charge losing headway running the fridge.

Why not just run the refrigerator on propane? You more than likely have a much deeper bucket to draw from then your batteries.

Would I have any luck painting the back half of my turbo and the turn down elbow on the back of the turbo to the exhaust pipe. Mine is pretty rusty. Does the temperature of these items typically exceed the ability of high temperature paint?

Is the lower digital readout amp draw?

Don't discount the idea of whole new hubs. Probably cheaper than 2 bearing sets and the seal. I went to a "wholesale' trailer place. I got all new brakes and hub assembly for a 3,000# axle for around $85 per wheel. Just bolt them to the axle through the backing plate and re-wire. Cheaper than shoes, bearings etc. Way less work too. Plus they were the new auto adjust brakes.

Our injectors are not like common rail. Does not the stock filter get enough of the junk out and water? Since installing my new pump raptor 100 and the added bypass and scrubbing of fuel my stock filter doesn't get dirty anymore. Used to be black, now I look at it and think to myself, why am I changing it?

Is that level of filtration necessary on a VP pump injector system? A good pump should be able to handle some debris.

Wow, everyone is here! Thanks! I put my test gauge at fire up this morning. Generally reading low in the morning. Test gauge showed 20# at fire up. So the good news is that my fuel pump is not the problem. I think that I'll eliminate the isolator and run diesel to the cab. Is it not necessary to purge air from the line going to the cab? Air does compress more than liquids.

Too bad all those do it yourself car washes have disappeared and been replaced with drive thru ones. Can't hardly find one anymore when you need one.

WH6820 from an earlier thread written by Michael?

It's the fittings that cost. I'm set up for 1/8". All I need is the needle valve and tubing. Thanks anyway mike.