ABennin

The gauge reads up to 100 psi. Not sure what the sender maximum psi is. I would expect there is some room over 100 psi before damaging the sender. On a side note when my OEM oil pressure sender failed it read 0 on the dash and 99 on the edge monitor. Another reason I wanted to add this gauge.

That's my original plan, but I thought if I could mount it somewhere else I would. Yes it does, I was curious to see how the two (3 if you count the dash)compare. Plus I am bored, I am not starting my new job until the 5th and ran out things to do. I think I can drag this install out for an afternoon. I am going to clean up the area and try to loosen the plug and see what comes out. I am not going to force it. If that doesn't work, it is going in the oil cooler/filter housing port.

Hello all, I have a Isspro oil pressure gauge(R17211) due to arrive hopefully Monday and wanted to know if I could mount it on the drivers side in what I believe is an oil gallery. I have been looking at threads on the forums and most I find most are about the CR's. Looking to see if this is what I think it is and if it is has anyone used this as a location for the sender. Otherwise I will use the port on the oil cooler/filter housing.

Mag-tec diff cover?

Have not checked in on the thread in a while. Thank you AH64ID. I had to play with them a bit and turn the lighting down a little at a time in the beginning until I had them matched to the dash. I haven't touched them since. The switch pac on the shifter gave me problems. The light went out one night two weeks ago on the way home and the switch was warm to the touch. Emailed PacBrake and Doug, the warranty administrator called me, but I wasn't near my phone. I called him back the next day and explained what the problem was and he shipped a new switch. I am happy that they stood behind it and it was for a lack of a better word, pleasant warranty experience. I don't like when stuff breaks , but when companies handle it like the way Doug at Pac did, it is nice to know they care about the customer after they sell the product. On a different subject kind of, I am working on a deal for a G56AD(recent rebuild)in place of the nv4500. The owner of the G56 wants a nv4500. A two birds, one stone scenario for me. The swap is not a big deal but I have my inline brake mounted next to the transmission. I have a friend with a '06 CTD with a G56 and took measurements and everything should clear no problem. I may turn or clock the brake in the exhaust a little as a precaution to move the air cylinder away from its current position. I am hoping we can make the deal, it would great to have another gear with better spacing between all of them.

If someone nearby has a smarty that would be ideal. Otherwise call around to other dealers and give them the TSB number. I went through this. The 2nd dealer I called knew what it was without looking it up. I confirmed the TSB number with him and set an appointment. Cost $65, but the tech also programmed a key fob since I did not have a working one to program off of. So it may have been a little cheaper with out that, but it should be close. Here is the TSB. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/29-tsb-technical-service-bulletins/85-tsb-18-019-01-cold-idle-engine-warming If you go the dealer route and want the 3 cylinder after the update they must go back in and turn it on.

Took these on my way home from work in the morning last weekend. The colors were at the peak till about the middle of the week.

Been following the thread and I have been watching the fuel temp on monitor the last few days. I have seen 125 to 150 after it is shut off for a while. It will quickly drop to around 100 while driving. I drove for 45 minutes at one point today and it was in the high seventies outside. It stayed right at 101 the whole time. The fuel tank has about 25 gallons left in it at this time. I am going watch it next time I tow and see if it changes. This is still on the original VP with 186k.

I have heard nothing but good things about POR. Someday the truck is going to be repainted and would like to use something like that on that on frame. I noticed a big difference. My clutch is grabby and it helped a lot. I had axle wrap especially while towing, rough roads were not pleasant. Another reason was I wanted them for the track. I told my friend I can beat his ZR1 vette at the 1/4 mile because he will pop the clutch and kill it a couple times at the line.(the record is 3) In his defense he was new to driving manual. That was a few years ago now he will kick my butt, but it is fun to say.

Rusted. There was a little dirt in all axle plates but only 2 U bolts looked like that. I think water was trapped and rusted them overtime.

This was an area I don't normally look at since I don't off road or even go through themud. I was under there looking at the differential because I was thinking about a putting on a cover with increased capacity, when I noticed this. It is now on the checklist when I am under the truck from now on.

I was under the truck a while back and saw the drivers side U bolts had rusted badly in the threaded section that goes through the axle plate. The truck has not been driven in winter since '06. I have been tossing around the idea of traction bars and this seemed like a good opportunity since the set I wanted came with new u bolts.

Currently 61 and raining with a high recorded of 76 today. The 10 day doesn't look like it is going to warm up much. Still waiting for summer to arrive. I have never worn sweat shirts so much in June and July as I have this year.

The first flagpole was 150ft and they added 50ft and it fell over due to high winds in 2004. The last one would sway(2008). People on the interstate could see it moving and called the police. This article is from 2008. http://www.wisconsinosity.com/Sheboygan/articles/acuity_flagpole_grounded_for_now.htm

I live 5 miles from there and it doesn't look so tall driving by because the diameter gets smaller the higher you go. When you stand next to it and look up that is when it sets in. This isn't their first flag pole, but it is the tallest and hopefully stays problem free this time.

No need for the slider since duallies are long beds. The only thing I found hard to reach was getting the nuts on the bolts by the fuel tank. So now I just weld the brackets on.

Nice, I didn't know they are putting Cat's in those. I get to use a Grass hopper 722D at the farm, it sips fuel and doesn't bog much in the tall grass. It is heavy and requires glow plugs for 5 seconds even in warm weather due to small displacement. Great machine otherwise. Now you have no excuse not to mow the yard.

I have used this company near me. They have good stuff and have had good luck with their products. They have some of the things you are looking for. Scroll down to see the parts. http://www.cooltruckparts.com/pc_style_detail.asp?key=E6CF9F6379114E01A1CE66E405ADBEE3&page=1

You're welcome. I also hand tighten and I don't have a many issues with removing filters.

I use this at work. It works great. I need to get one for my garage once. http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-209-9-Inch-Filter-Plier/dp/B0009WG5SU Edit: Not sure what size is needed right off hand. For the filters on our trucks you may want the next size up. http://www.amazon.com/Channellock-212-Capacity-Filters-Strainers/dp/B0002SR53K/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=1EY603CJ1Q94DNP122EP

People around here don't have much patience for slow traffic. I have had a lot of close calls when driving farm tractors down the road. People don't slow down or look.

I almost witnessed a head on yesterday. I was heading back from the car show with a 32ft enclosed trailer in tow and was happily following a minivan who was driving at a good pace for me, but a few of the cars behind me didn't. A late 90's Ford Taurus station wagon in particular had enough after about 20 miles and decided to pass on a sweeping right hand curve. I know he couldn't see around the curve very far with the trees on the side of road and my trailer blocking what was in front me. He was drafting the trailer pretty close that I lost him in my mirrors at times. I seen him pull out and I immediately looked at the on coming traffic and there was a oncoming box truck no too far off. He made up to the front of the truck and I was expecting him to pull in between me and the minivan, there was more than enough room. Nope he kept on it and made it pass the van. He was seconds away from an encounter with that little pete. The thing that made me mad was we were only a half a mile away from a hill with a slow lane for the trucks. The icing on the cake was when he was passing me I saw it said "just married" on the rear window. It could have been a wedding and the funerals all in one weekend.

I agree with MnTom. I have noticed this too. More so since I got rid of HX35. It will smoke more when it is above 55-60 out. When it is warm and I drive normal, I shift before 2000 rpms and have no smoke. Get on it and there is a fair amount if I shift at the same points. When don't want smoke and am in hurry, I will rev it out to 2500ish before I shift. When it is colder out it don't really matter much.

Time for an update on the brake. Towed a bunch with it and it has worked flawlessly. I have no regrets on choosing the inline PRXB. The only issue I have been working on is air leaks associated with the air pressure gauge. Could not for the life of me get the fitting on the bottom of the tank to seal that runs to tee with the sensor and valve. So I installed another tank and ran to a near by truck shop and picked up some air fittings. Finally got the leaks fixed. The push locs are expensive($5 a piece!) and I only used them on the tank. I used a plain compression fitting in the tee. In the picture that is the 2nd layout of the tee which is not finalized yet. I knew that setup wasn't leaking so I left it for now. I may just cut off the mount on the tee and re weld it or start fresh, haven't decided yet. I don't like the wire hanging down. I installed a triple pillar with the air pressure gauge, back pressure and my Edge monitor. I bought the Edge accessory mount and cut off the tabs because my old monitor doesn't have them. I used double sided tape and a little upholstery glue for insurance. I really like it mounted there it is easy to see and not to bright. Speaking of bright the Isspro's were way to bright, so a attribute programmer was ordered. Dimmed them down and set the warning lights. I did look at the potentiometer though but liked that I can program the gauges on my laptop more. Also have the right thermocouple now. It did not come with a new compression fitting so I had to get a 3/16".

I assume this is for the truck in your sig(the 5 spd) then you would need to drill and tap the drivers side PTO cover. I did not do mine right away though. I did it when I changed the trans oil. I don't know how necessary it is in a manual, but it is nice have and I do have it set on my monitor most of the time.