Cowboy
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Everything posted by Cowboy
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How to replace a door jam switch. Lucky for us dodge did this right as the switch is stupid easy to replace, and only requires what you likely already have in your pocket! Locate the switch and take off all the electrical tape that holds on a chunk of tubing that you put there to push the button in further so you didn't have to listen to the buzzer all the way home from your 200 mile trip (hence you're replacing it). Now take your trusty pocket knife and pry out on the tab, the switch should pop out. Now take you're new switch you've had for quite some time in preparation of this very moment (BWD P#S1034). Disconnect the old switch and connect the new one, there doesn't appear to be any orientation, so just throw it in there! Now insure that the little collet is pushed to the back of the switch so it will slide in the hole. As the top one is in this next picture. Now just push it in the hole until it snaps in place! There you have it! Done in a matter of minutes. Tech tip: If you're taking pictures of the processes, and your camera runs out of battery causing you to have to go back to the house to get another set, do not close the door with the switch hanging out... -
I use a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF on anything I put heat too, PB blaster just smokes away. I've done many rusty manifolds and turbine housings this way with good luck.
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I'm a cheap wad, my truck is self sufficient other than the original purchase price, except for fuel anyway.
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You're probably right, but I need a filter on everything!!! I'm working on a battery acid filter as we speak. As far as how to plumb it in: Stolen from here: http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/1881330-d89s-holiday-hydroboost-hullabaloo.html
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Here's another option. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-non-powertrain/1584354-spin-power-steering-filter.html
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Have you adjusted valve lash? Something to check off the list.
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Nice thing about Walmart is free shipping... Which is nice for those like me who get into town once a month or so. The jug type I get is typically based on price and what it's going into. The forwarder takes almost 5 gallons and has a fill-up spout perfect for a bucket. The john deere on the other hand is horrible. 2.5 gal jugs are sometimes cheaper still. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T-15W-40-Heavy-Duty-Diesel-Oil-2.5-gal./14958359 A tractor supply might have it cheaper. Rural King: 2.5 gallons for $29.99 http://www.ruralking.com/shell-rotella-t-15w40-2-5-gallon-diesel-motor-oil.html 5 gallons for 59.99 http://www.ruralking.com/rotella-t-15w-40-5-gal-bucket.html Or if you're really cheap http://www.ruralking.com/oil-rural-king-15w40-5-gallon.html
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Here's the PDF And Head porting does take some time, and really isn't needed to make big numbers. It just helps the engine breath a little better lowering boost, EGT's and lag.
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Some, yes. The "standard design" is complete garbage. The "Improved Design" is identical to the Cummins gasket. There's procedures for checking all the clearances in the FSM as well as in the "6bt Engine Overhual Guide" PDF I have. I'll upload it in a bit. Do you plan on giving the head any love while it's off?!?!?!
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Valve Springs - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dodge-Cummins-3916691-12-valve-60lb-exhaust-valve-springs-Set-of-12-springs-/331832784473?hash=item4d42c67659:g:s7cAAOSwMpZUpZTy&vxp=mtr Head Gasket - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=447321&cc=1095869&jsn=430 Gaskets/Seals - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=124813&cc=1095869&jsn=436&jsn=436 Not sure what washer thickness the above kit has, so - http://usdieselparts.com/i-13465240-injector-install-kit-89-98-dodge-5-9l-12v.html
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True enough, but the drive-train likes lag so it's kind of a wash depending on how you look at it. I obviously do not look at it that way! Also being an automatic, you won't notice the lag as much as us stick guys. A HE351 or S362SXE should do fine.
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No problemo. And, umm, a... it was actually just an old camera and a bungee...
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Sorry guys, wrong thread haha. Just because. hehe Either way, regardless of how fast it spins, it has been known to cause vibration.
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Seriously though, if the shop currently looked like that, I'd be asking "who did the tidying?"
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We have the same coffee maker!!! I'm surprised the pitman arm came off that easily. I have a whole new respect for how much editing it takes to make a movie like that.
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I did a little price shopping and the cheapest place I seen the Spicer SPL55-3X U-joints was amazon for $43 shipped. I went into doing mine with a camera ready, but realized the hardest part about it was getting the bearing out... And mine basically fell off haha. I didn't worry about the spindle nut and left the whole rotor setup on. It all worked pretty slick. I need to do a buddies in the next couple days, so hopefully I can take some more pictures for the how-to.
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Anyone try these? http://www.1aauto.com/dodge-mirror-pair/i/1amrk00050?f=501766&y=2001
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It's embarrassing to say how many times I've watched this. Alone the music or video isn't anything special, but together I think it's pretty cool. Enjoy!
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How to remove injectors on a 12 valve Cummins. Clean area thoroughly. Remove 10mm bolts holding down intake horn, oil tube, injector lines, grid heater, and injector return line. Remove injector lines (19mm). Remove injector return line 10mm banjo bolts. Remove injector return line 12mm banjo bolt at fuel filter. Remove injector return line. Loosen Injector hold down nuts. Remove injectors.
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Thanks for the reminder! I meant to add this in there as well. http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1997/19-10-97.htm EDIT: Done! EDIT #2: Wrong Article! EDIT #3: Correct Article! http://dodgeram.org/tech/mods/steering/steering_gear/Adjust.htm
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No problem. Been wanting to move it over here for a while anyway.
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Injectors typically last at least 300k. Though the stock ones I've seen between 200-300k are typically down to 220-240 bar. All they needed was a little shimming and were good to go again. The P7100 is debatably the most reliable part on the truck, though some 94-95's have plunger warping issues. Complications.
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Where do you guys get your Spicer joints? Rockauto wants something like $44.99ea + 5.99 shipping. And yes, I already have some on the way. haha Also, thanks for the confirmation that I got the right ones! Only way I was able to find them on rockauto was to do a part number search. Also, Also... Does anyone have a good write up for this? Reason I ask is I don't want to waste a bunch of time with pictures if there is already one available.
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I was about to post the same thing. Good for 450 hp easy.
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It was a buddy of mine trying to calculate the HP of my NA cummins using a HP per psi boost formula... EDIT: evidence here http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94-98-performance-parts-discussion/1842122-do-i-have-5x0-14s.html#post21212202
