Cowboy

I use non-hardening gasket maker on any diesel/oil fittings. I've used it a fair bit with different systems, some admittedly shady things to get over the hump and have never had an issue.

There are a couple different flavors of HX40 compressor wheel. So it could have to do with which one you had.

Could you use EEPROM? Every update you do, the closer I come to installing one of these things.

If it's hard to make any kind of power under 2000 RPM, then I'd be looking at a boost leak straight off. You can also give the turbo a quick inspection. There is a how-to in the article section.

People that like it also wear flat bills, enjoy black smoke, and transform there truck into a cack (it's a mix between a car and a truck, the uselessness of a car, with the ride quality, handling and cost of a truck).

pretty much every year we butcher the extra roosters, run around like idiots catching the easy ones and then plucking off the others in the head with a .22. Like Nick said, chickens are resilient little buggers, just make sure to have dirt floor coop that is semi air tight. Those two things go a long ways against the cold, and the dirt floor helps hugely with the heat as well. Now the guinea are just insane, they stay outside and take care of them selves year in and year out. Only time we'll throw them some feed is if there's snow on the ground.

Transmission and Charging is all you're missing? Try swapping the ASD relay in the Power Distribution Center (The black box next to the drivers side battery). Also check #4 fuse in the PDC for power on both sides while the issue is occurring.

No, though I have put some thought into it. With my current system, a 4.5" or 5" filter would work best. With this one being so small, I could make a cold air intake for it... IDK

Try Here http://thmotorsports.com/volant/volant-air-filter-powercore/61504/i-1987882.aspx They've got the 8"x8"x8" in 4", 4.5" 5" 5.5" and 6" inlets.

The 47RH which is mechanically controlled except for two switches to engage Overdrive and TC lockup came in 94-95, 47RE's came in 96-02 IIRC. While the 47RH is a simpler and more rugged tranny, I don't think it would be worth the swap. I'm not sure about ME*Smashes Keyboard*, but I'm just a farmer. Yes it would be a little complicated, but shouldn't be to bad. On the tranny troubleshooting, I can't say I've never had 47RE issues, I just never fixed them lol, so I'm not going to be of much help.

Stock yes, the converter always locks after after the last gear in the 47RE/RH. You can install a manual switch to be able to lock it in 2nd as well, however having the transmission shift while it's locked will result in broken parts in short order. It is electric over hydraulic. There's an electric solenoid controlled by the PCM that opens and closes a valve in the 'Valve body' that then sends hydraulic pressure to the 4th gear assembly, witchcraft happens and you go faster. Someday I'll probably get an auto 12V, one thing I'd like to play with is building a controller for it.

The correct shift sequence is; 1st - 2nd - 3rd - 4th (OD), TC Lockup. If you push the "OD/OFF" button on the dash, it will lock you out of 4th but give you lockup in 3rd. So that becomes; 1st - 2nd - 3rd - TC Lockup.

The problem is not just buckling, but sealing properly. A small chunk of 4" exhaust pipe on the inside of the flange is the definition of "cheap insurance". An old timer on the forums realized that everyone needing an unexpected premature engine rebuild was running a BHAF. He attributed it to the filters filtering ability, but more digging and testing by other members shows that the problem is likely the flange sealing/buckling.

NV5600's have a different synchro material, making it not as picky about oil.

On a NV4500 the only long term proven lubes to use are Castrol Syntorq LT(not Syntech or Syntorque) or Amsoil MTG. Fill to the bottom of the fill hole, no higher, about 5 quarts. Any other lubes including synthetics are well proven to eat your carbon fiber syncros like acid. Royal Purple and Redline are a couple that definitely eat syncros.

You think that'd work as shampoo? Dawn works ok, but....

The Sum!

You mean convert a 47RE to RH? Yes it's possible, but would take a couple things including a RH valve body, RH OD section, and a way to get the different shaped electrical plugs through the main housing. You could install a manual valve body on the 47RE...

The PCM uses a lot of different inputs to shift the transmission. I don't have a list of them all, but the FSM might. For your swap, I would be really tempted to trade for an 47RH, even if you need to shell out a little coin you'll be way ahead in the long run.

I made a goal of painting anything that came off, while I havn't followed that 100% I did pretty close. Now this is a friends truck, I can not begin to express the awesomeness.

I concur entirely. That is why I posted this so other could share there favorite articles/videos/pictures. And then I can assemble that into an article. I used to be of the mind that just about anything is accessible via google. However I have realized the art of googling was not bestowed upon everyone. Anytime I watch a friend google I question humanity its self. lol

About a year ago I bought a bunch of washers that would be about the right size for shims. Then after doing research about it decided not to run them as people were saying they weren't hard enough steel. Fast forward to about a month ago when I ordered new injectors, I bought some shims about the same time, but there were some complications with the wrong ones being sent, which I found out after having the injectors on the bench... So thinking back to the washers, I decided to try it. I wrote down the exact pressures I set each one to, aaannnnnddddd temporarily misplaced it, but they were all 320 bar +/- 3 bar. I put the higher pop ones on the outside cylinders and the lower in the center. I put a couple hundred miles on them, enough to know I didn't like that particular pop pressure setting. So I took them all out and here's where they popped at. 321 319 312 318 324 316 These are also brand new nozzles, so you can expect the pressures to drop slightly as everything seats together. Overall I was happy with it, while I probably won't be using them again for peace of mind, if someone's in a pinch then I say go for it. Another thing I might add, the shims I got were from a reputable shop. It was an assortment of different thicknesses, while most the shims were definitely genuine shims, there were two sizes that looked like washers. The difference being shims are very square looking, having sharp corners, and washers have more rounded corners. Generally speaking, shims will be made out of a stronger steel less prone to dis-forming.

They sure do as I've done it, never installed it on the truck, but was just curious. There is some hear say about the HE351 having a 9.7cm2 turbine housing, however I nor anyone I know is sure on the matter. The advantage of the HE341/351 is the wastegate design. It can be enlarged further and flows better by design. But if you don't plan on over fueling it to bad you'll be fine. Another thing to consider is just installing a HE351 compressor housing as well, they have a larger AR so would probably work better with the extra flow.

You could run a HE351 with a HY35 exhaust housing... It will take you to 400hp with easy.