gassernomore

Not to step on pepsi71ocean's remarks.But Raptor pumps come with all the extras if you buy it from a diesel shop(at least the sites i have looked at). When I've seen them on EBAY that is when it is just the pump.

Welcome to the forum.

I like to change the serpentine belt every 50,000 miles. I call it my insurance policy!

The 602 code is nothing to worry about. This can happen with any type of chip.

Some of the '00 and '01 trucks have a problem with reading both computers using the key method. Best bet is to have a code reader to see if there are any other codes. Sorry I can't help with the injectors. I am CLUELESS when it comes to the VP and bleeding the injectors! Good luck!

Usually a low pressure light comes on at like 4 or 5 psi I think. (can't remember) So, it is to late to save the VP then. Where did you end up hooking up the red and black wires at?

I have my red wire hooked upto the alternator (black wire about a # 10 ga) and the negative post on passenger battery. In the past for me when, the system has air in it, I have gotten fuel to the filter and then bumped the starter about 12 times. Letting it run thru the full cycle of the fuel pump. Then started it and it goes. Will run rough for a little bit and then all is fine. You might have to bleed at the injectors if this doesn't work. Glad to hear you got "noise" out of the pump! One step closer. Good luck!

The kink in the line didn't kill the pump. Sounds more like an electrical problem. My Raptor can be heard with the windows rolled up and the radio on if you bump the starter. Did your setup come with a wiring harness? Was your old lift pump by the fuel cannister? If it was, make sure you use that electrical connection (it will plug into the new harness), also where did you run the red and black wires to? Where did you connect them to? Double check to make sure the fuse on the harness and the other connector is pushed in all the way. Also, there is a white button in the center of the connector ( has like 8 wires) push that in. It would also be a good idea to put dielectric grease on all the electrical connections at this time. When winter rolls around you could have problems. It happened to me! Good luck!

We all have been in that position! That is why we are members of this forum!

If you "bump" the starter and everything is hooked up right you would be seeing fuel all over the place(if you left a line loose). By chance have you hooked up the fuel line from the tank to the pump on the outlet side? Fill the filter cannister all the way to the top! You want as little air in the system as possible when you try to start it. I would disconnect the line from the outlet side of the pump and see if you have fuel there, then connect it and try from the outlet side of the filter. If you have done this, and have fuel the next bet would be to bleed at the injectors. http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/reprime-fuel/reprime-fuel.htm Also, if you have been cranking that many times you might want to put a charge on the batteries before you try to start it again! Keep us informed. Good luck!

Last time I looked there was a $10 difference on the Raptor pumps. I use a 150 and no drawstraw. My fuel pressure does not go down when I WOT it. Like dripley says, the tank is not hard to remove if close to empty. Just disconnect the wires before youy drop it completely.

Fram filters don't have the best reputation with a Cummins engine. Do a search for "oil filters" on this site and you will get all the info you would want to know about which is the best! Good luck!

Nope. I have tried drilling the easy out out. Not a mark on it, used cutting oil and cobalt drill bits. Pulled the top of the tranny case off and taking it down to a machine shop and let them deal with it! Either I don't have the right bits or no patience!

I feel better now! I have company!

Started my day out spraying the first vineyard, completed that. Did the second vineyard and about 3/4 way done and look down at my feet and I have hydraulic fluid all over my feet. Stop the tractor, tear it down and go and get a 50 cent o-ring. Put the tractor back together and a bolt snaps for my 3 point hitch hydraulics. Tear the tractor down again and use an easy out to get the bolt out and it snaps inside the drill hole. :cry: I am done for the day! Problem is when I wake up in the morning I still have a BIG problem to fix!

Depending on where you live, there can be some good options. I had a policy when I was in Ut. from National Federal Life. It paid ME when There was an ER visit. My son made me rich with injuries from HS football! LOL From my experience you can find good cheap insurance if you browse the internet. Try a independant salesmen. He can give you alot more insurance than a big company! All of the big companies are pretty much set with prices.

When you get a fuel pressure gauge, only get one from 0-30 psi. I have a mechanical Isspro fuel gauge and have had no problems with it. I have not seen a 4 gauge pillar holder. Looks like if you don't have a tweeter on the pillar you could probably get a 3 pod and then get a 1 gauge holder and cut it down to fit. Doesn't look like there is enough room on the tweeter pod. Been looking at getting an EGT AND tranny temp Isspros as well.

The whole unit. Wasn't that expensive.

Stock HP with an EDGE EZ is all. Torque converter, valve body, clutches and ? Mine memory is leaving me! --- Update to the previous post... Actually, it is a Aamco Transmission shop. I figured with them being nationwide and the knowledge of this guy it was a good deal. 503-585-5737

Like I said, this guy worked at a Dodge dealership and he told me if you get 100K out of an automatic you should hug it! I feel lucky to get 140K out of mine. Plus all of the threads on autos' just made me realize it was a matter of time before mine went. Plus the cost wasn't traumatic either!

$3700! but that is also replacing the seals on the transfer case. Unlimited mileage guarantee.

That was good advice! I use to tell my salesmen the same thing. When it comes to workmens comp insurance they just about make you die before they want to pay for an injury without any prior documentation on file. Good luck on the recovery when that comes into play!

Time for a new tranny. I had 140K miles with that tranny with some HEAVY loads recently. I found a tranny guy that worked at a Dodge dealer in N. Idaho who did nothing but trannies for the Cummins. Basically he told me after he got done with it, I would not have ANY problems with it. All of the stuff that I have read on the forum for auto upgrades he is doing. This is going to hurt the pocketbook! :spend: I figure if I got the engine that can move a mountain I might as well have the tranny to go with it.

No shift kit. R is fine.Finefrom1&2, but will not go in 3rd. If going down a hill it will shift into 3rd! Still trying to sort all the info out. Been told it can be a rpm sensor on the tranny, a governor pressure sender and then another switch that goes out after pulling a heavy load. Not sure what's next! Trying to not just throw money into parts that might not be needed!

For my truck in the signature. No codes. Batteries clean. 13.8 to 13.9 volts. Tranny flush 20k ago. Fluid is red and no burnt smell to it. We used the truck to flatbed my sons' 06 Dodge home the other day. The trans temp light came on as he was coming up our hill. Now for the symptom: in 3rd gear it sometimes will not kick into 3rd gear. It will shift from 1st to 2nd. Tranny works in R, 1, and 2 positions. Any suggestions?