CTcummins24V

Hahaha run away! He says he's already got one!

Now I have a wheel question. Both my stock and aftermarket rims only have about an 1/8" of clearance between inside of rim and caliper, in the front. The rears have plenty of room. I had my tires mounted and balanced with weights on the inside of the rim and I turned the wheel on the front of the truck and all the weights got knocked off. Does this sound right? Stock rims had weights on the outside lip and I'm guessing this is what needs to be done for my aftermarket rims...

I would say it's not from the EZ

A business that doesn't make a profit is no business at all, let alone breakeven. Mopar man isn't a business yet, but I think it should be treated as such. This forum/website is a tremendous resource and anybody collecting small money for it shouldn't feel any guilt whatsoever for it's continued existence. Keep up the great work and wealth of knowledge!

Nope, 4x4 only according to the website. I have an adjustable track bar, shocks for up to 2" of lift...like Mike said, weight behind the truck is the best leveling kit, then I don't have drive nose high when loaded I leveled my 03' 2500 hemi and loved it! Tight steering, nice look. Fuel economy dropped a little bit though

That sums it up, looks like I'm yanking the coil spacers and sticking to just plow prep coils! Who wants some 1.5" coil spacers?!

Since leveling my truck, roughly 2-1/2" - 3" raise in the front, my upper control arms hit the bracket on the axle. I haven't had it aligned yet, but do I need to upgrade to adjustable or longer control arms? I thought the oem ones were good for leveling? I've seen people get adjustable lower ones to center the axle in the wheel well better but I can't see how that would help the hitting issue.

Welcome to the family! Good thing about Bosch RV275s is they are brand new everything. If you ever wanted to go bigger, you could just swap out the nozzles and know that the rest of the injector is in tip top shape, not reman./worn out.

As stated, 35" tires, 3.55 gears and automatic tranny don't help. What stall is your converter? A low stall converter won't help either.

Rockauto

Yup! Brand-new from Cummins

Join the club

Truck handled fine, but I could slip the converter if I masked the pedal down

Lubrication

My crossover tubes wouldn't seal the second time I did injectors, i'm guessing from over tightening them the first time and not torquing to spec. I bought new crossover tubes from my local Cummins dealer, torqued to spec, and they are just fine now

You might have crud blocking the drain valve, I did one time and had to pull the whole drain valve out.

The story a 2nd gen...Mine steered great for couple months after a new gearbox, then that loosened up. My old boss had a 2nd gen as well, he said he would replace all the steering parts and It would steer great for a couple months then back to being loose, then he got a Duramax

When my differential went south, the driveshaft was hopping in and out of the housing and shaking and grinding. Certainly a lot more fierce than a little chatter going around a corner.

Mopar friction modifier from the dealer, at least one bottle. May need to or three. Start with one and see if your noise goes away

oooo 475hp and 500hp

For limited slip, the manual states 75-140 synthetic for the rear with at least one bottle of limited slip additive. The first time I did mine I needed 2 bottles to prevent chattering. This last time it was 3 bottles, Mopar brand only, any other off the shelf additives will not work, well at least for me. The front might only need 75-90. Permatex whatever, right stuff worked for me this last time, I think I used gray the first time.

Installed 5-3-2013, 15,000-17,000 miles on it

Weeks haha. I went from EZ to Comp and within weeks my tranny was shuddering. Transmission did not like the low end torque going up hills. Then again, when I got my truck the tranny fluid was black and was probably abused before hand.

Rickson's would be awesome, wheel and tires and $2,000-3,000 later. My original plan was to get 3rd gen wheels and powdercoat them, but blasting and coating was $375 and I couldn't find a set of wheels for under $400 to make it worth it.

Summit Racing Part Number:BRW-908B688045 Wheel Diameter:16 in. Wheel Width (in):8.000 in. Wheel Material:Aluminum Primary Wheel Color:Black Wheel Finish:Matte Manufacturers Wheel Series:Black Rock Yuma Series Backspacing (in):4.500 in. Offset:0.00mm Wheel Construction:1-piece Beadlock Functional:No Beadlock Included:No Lug Nut Seat Style:Conical seat - 60 degree Hub Centric:No Center Bore Diameter (in):5.150 in. Center Bore Diameter (mm):130.81mm Center Cap Included:No Load Rating (lbs):3,200 lbs. Valve Stems Included:No Quantity:Sold individually. Wheel Bolt Pattern:8 x 6 1/2 in. So, they are lug centric