Killer223

they have some adjustments you can do in real time, but to use the warp software i'm seeing i have to spend the coin of 540$. so we shall see what comes of this.

well from what i see, i can buy a raceME ultra, at the tune of $1500 then i have to also purchase the Warp license key dongle for another 540$ So if that's it i'm not playing. i could do the raceme, but adding another 540 just be able to write my tunes doesn't sound like it's ever pay for it's self, and mainly all because i want to play with the tuning. kinda as a hobby. leaves much to think on.

like on my sons 93 toyota, it gets 10/40 motor oil. it's the best oil we have ever used.

so far the best shifting i have found is a toss up, from the amsoil MTG GL4, and the swepco 711. the 711 helps the hitch i have going into 3rd with out using the clutch, but it's not as easy to get. so right now I'm using the amsoil. I'm not good enough to tell a difference when cold. noise wise no discernible difference.

from what i can tell there is a strap now that holds the middle plate. look for it here. that's what quiets them down. that middle plate no longer bounces back n forth.

i am considering something like this. but not sure i really need it.

thanks for the info. is your dad's a solid mass flywheel yet? how much noise does it make? any chance of a video? Why the switch from the OFE to the OHD? people tell me the dual mass flywheel is junk. but mine is fine and well at 160K. sooo... why replace it? is it that it will not hold up to the higher holding power of a new clutch? i've yet to see good reason to change.

i'm waiting to do the clutch till after winter. thank you all for the input. i really do not want the rattle from a solid mass flywheel. but i might have to deal with it. and i want a single disk as well. this one has just north of 160K on it. i turned my tuner back to a "stock" power. so it should last till next spring. i'm broken right now with hand injury and couldn't work on it anyhow. i've had a local trans shop told me to look into phoenixfriction. says he likes them and has had good luck with them holding up well.

Why is it not a good idea? the CK is "backwards" compatible... so the way i see it i'm adding some of the good ol oil to the newer not so good oil, in order to make a half way decent oil. this is the oil i run https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-premium-all-fleet-15w-40-diesel-engine-oil-1-gal no issues. we ran this in the tractors onthe ranch for years n years. the old massy still going strong.

20 gal lol. i have over 100 of travellers 15/40 and over 60 valvoline 15/40. and around 30 valvoline 5/40. and roughly 35-38 of 5/30 supertech for my wifes car. i stocked up on the older CJ-4+ stuff when i had a chance. now i mix it about 50/50 with the newer CK stuff. Why.. cuz i'm an odd one. and as i said before, i change my oil's once a year. roughly 8-9K miles. my next investment is a oil burner stove/furnace to heat the garage.

ideally you want to keep the oil changes at or around 500 hours. that's the spec for most modern oils. yes some can and do go longer. but 500 is the formula cummins recommended for the new trucks. 15K miles equals about 500 hours with the average speed being around 35 mph.

ok well from what i see, running the WARP software and the UDC, there is an option int he WARP that is not in the UDC. screen shots to fallow, on the left there is a diagnostic option on WARP and it's not there in UDC. all else looks the same. and it' sunder said diagnostic options that you can do all kinds of things.. things i have no clue about.

hum. every six months is ok or could be once a year. my 04 get's an oil change every spring. regardless of miles driven. usually around 8-9K miles. blackstone tells me i can go longer on the oil. but. well.. i don't. just use a good oil rated for the climate you live and the engine. you'll be fine.

thank you for finding this info for me.

i can't seem to find on weather this MM3 with UDC pro will let me have my DPF and EGR deleted. and i can't seem to find a place to add to cart and buy said equipment.

This is literally the only pic i can find of my face. Here's some of the boss and laborers.

so just order and MM3 and it'll come with the software needed with tables? or... i'm not going to run "Box" tunes. this is more for a adventure into the tuning world than anything. with MM3 can i change the EB map? how strong it comes on? etc? i've read a few that state you can and some say you cant. i'm also after more timing for mpg's, like i said it's just to play with. if you could hook me up with what is needed, and maybe a link. i'd be grateful.

So i want to start doing my own tunes. anyone here have a direction for me? what's needed. i have EFI from anarchy right now, it's good, by all means it's great. but well i'm a tinkerer. so i'd like to delve into writing some tunes. do i get a base file? like stock tuning? do i get a flashscan v2? MM3? smarty? I've tried reading as much as i can from EFI and MM3 but none really answer my questions as what i need to write my own tunes.

my wifes not to happy with me right now, i told her i wana go, but it's my step sons B-day the 22. and well she's mad that i'd go anywhere without her. on top of that i don't think i even own a tent anymore sense buying my 5er. there is always the back of my truck. i'm not afraid.!!! so we shall see group. but i'm trying.

talking things over with the wife and will let you guy know. looks like i don't need my trailer so that saves lotsa time n fuel. looks like it'll be just me. maybe me n the dog if it's a pet friendly place.

i want to join but need details again. where is this place? am i to late to get a spot? will there be any use of a UTV? or should i plan on tent camping and not draggin my 33' 5er up there. wow that's a 2 day drive for me if i'm draggin my trailer. could make it in a day running empty. i have welding lenses. will those work?

i love the southern CO area. some amazing places to fish, hike and drive around on. growing up on a ranch in cortez offered me the chance to explore lots of this area. Anyhow here's some from my trip sunday. over 100 mile loop in the UTV.

my 08, G56, was slowing for traffic, down to about 35 mph in 3rd. then rolled into it and the clutch slipped, let off immediately, next stop i lowered my programmer to stock from 3. That said. i'm thinking after 160K my clutch has had enough. i DO NOT want to dual disk. and i'd like to keep it as quiet as i can. So who to call? do i keep the DM flywheel.? or switch to the other one. Thoughts...

there is a bolt on the top, the 48're are known to crack the OD housing. this is designed to help eliminate that. but my early 04 with 250K still hasn't cracked, and it's worked wood cutting, towing, no jumping though.

i left the opposite side of the truck tire on the ground. as if i was out rock crawling. when i jacked whole front end up it wouldn't drop enough to get them out. but one side at a time it worked.