TFaoro

Just a note to those doing this, for some reason every time I completely restart my computer I have to go through this process again. I know it's a pain, but it's worth it in the end!

Yes, you just have to tell them that's the flash you want.

Very well said and some VERY HARD work done by @Me78569. Honestly I probably would have had to switch injectors as these left clouds everywhere at the slightest throttle input. Now I can stab my foot to 75% nearly smoke free and watch the power climb as boost climbs. My truck is very friendly on the street (nearly zero smoke with 7x.013) and a puts solid numbers down on the dyno and the street when I want it (500 can-bus 610 wiretap). As of right now there is no other single programmer that can take a smokey pig and make it drive friendlier than a stock truck while putting big numbers down (big for a vp anyway.) Can't thank Nick enough for putting up with my griping / complaining. Big thanks to @Quadzilla Power for getting everything working with the app. May have some future requests for them as well.

Welcome Keith! Another fellow Colorado member here. If you get the questions answered that these guys have asked we should be able to help diagnose your issue

What would cause the need for a complete overhaul though? If the probe melted off or something, it would at most destroy the turbine wheel and possibly the whole turbo. The intercooler should catch the chunks if the turbo grenaded though. I'd like to read it if you can find it! I can personally attest that both of my probes have seen well over 1,800deg F and I haven't had an issue with either.

Pictures / videos or it did't happen!!! Just messing. I'm jealous though.

Man that's frustrating! No idea why it would only do it on lockup though....

Yep, somewhere in that area. Back 3 cylinders because they run hotter than the front 3. In the collector because you get an average of the 3 cylinders. IMO that is correct.

I'd stick with Timkens if you can. They make quality bearings. http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,2001,ram+2500+pickup,5.9l+l6+diesel+turbocharged,1366602,brake/wheel+hub,wheel+bearing+&+hub+assembly,1636

Those are different. 98-00 = same 01 has its own 02 has its own It's a small little adapter on the harness though that's $50 or so from @dieselautopower

They have a little "jumper" on the circuit board that is easily removed by anyone, so basically the boxes work for all years if you have the jumper. Without the jumper they are plug and play for 98-00 With the jumper they are plug and play for 01-02

One of those lines was the factory supply, and one of them is the return

Nope, you can always switch it back if you like.

Why do you have 2 return lines coming from the motor??? There should be only one. Other than that, looks good.

Looks like you've got a good spot to get fuel

Nice work @CTcummins24V! The paint looks very good. Not sure if you're into them or not, but mudflaps help with that issue

Welcome! I also used to dread the vp44, but the more I've learned enough about it that I know its faults and find it very trustworthy now. It is weird that the check engine light came on but the autozone worker couldn't pull any codes. I would start with the key trick to see if that will pull any pertinent codes (key off, key on, key off, key on, key off, key on then leave the key on and watch the odometer.) Another question is do you have a fuel pressure gauge to know the lift pump pressure at the vp44? That's crucial to to have a long healthy vp44 life.

That's only 150% can-bus plus another 40% of 1800us pulse. Made it spool nicely though...

Agreed, just curious as I had mine at 99 while on the dyno. So much fuel Glad I couldn't see the stack coming out of the shop.

Have to be careful not to dent the seat tank too or your dad might kill you I'll get a pic of him and my girlfriend loaded up next to a fully restored D6 in his shop.

Drawstraws are notorious for having 1/4 tank issues. Personally I would never run one if it wasn't in the basket.

Spill some thoughts. The more ideas and more discussions the better. Personally, I want to see timing ramp up faster when boost is present. As for not having as much punch, I would have to agree that comes in the 0-10psi range. I've got mine really low so it doesn't blow any smoke, but my dyno settings will really lay you back in the seat. Just can't use them because it blacks out the sun. Is this only when boost is below 10psi? Or is this all the time?

80 years old and worked for car for 50 years starting in the 50s. Really neat guy and still rebuilds the old Cats.

Yes, you will have to drill and tap the manifold. I think the exhaust will have some sort of adapter that holds it in there, but if you bought a whole new exhaust you shouldn't have to worry about it.

Seems to like it though. Fuel mileage is up where it should be, and it performed well on the dyno making just over 500 on can-bus only and 610 with the wiretap.