MnTom

Yes, the ones for an '02 will fit just fine.

First question, how would you be able to tap into the main by your house? Do you already have a compressor that is capable of producing 3000 to 3600 psi? Second question, why would you want to inject liquid LP? With liquid you will not have the same amount of control as you would with vapor. The liquid to vapor expansion rate is 270:1 In other words, 1 drop of liquid will give you the equivalent of 270 drops of vapor. Not only that, but it is easy to inject enough propane to have some real serious cylinder pressures and be replacing headgaskets.

No damage done to your engine. Our 5.9 engines are what is called a "parent bore" engine and do not have liners. For some reason that I can't remember the bubbles are not a problem with our engines. You can use the additives with no detrimental effects.

You can still get leaded gas at most airports. The EPA is working on that 'problem' but it sounds like there are too many older piston engines to eliminate all of it.

Yep. There are many that have studs and did it that way. Just start in the center and follow the sequence and torque as you go.

Wow. You sound like you are in Ashtabula County! The sheriff never used to go to Windsor. They even said to call the next county!

Your weight sounds pretty close. Mine with me and 3/4 tank of fuel is about 6480.

Additives that Cummins sells is for the engines with liners for cylinders. They contain corrosion and pitting protection. What they do is help keep the small bubbles from forming around the liners. When the bubbles form when the cylinder fires there is a slight shock wave formed and it causes the bubbles to expand and contract to the point they produce a super sonic pressure wave that will literally eat holes in the liners near the bottom of them. The holes look just like worm holes and will allow coolant to get into the oil. This will give you more reading: http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/html/en/products/cooling/coolant/supp_add.html

The reason it is considered the Holy Grail is because you have the 12V engine with the updated cab. Even today the '98 112V trucks are getting a premium price.

Rancherman is correct on hte amount of propane, but when I had a boot leak just off the turbo I did get a whiff of propane, but like what was said, no boost=no propane so unless I keep my foot into it and the boost up there is probably about 0% propane in the intercooler during a crash. Also keep in mind that propane needs a fairly precise mixture of air and propane to ignite.

Having a transmission put the power to the wheels is quite a difference. It is amazing how much the "butt dyno" feels when things are working good together!

Having to do that I would have probably called the cops and reported it as a hit and run. Around here LEOs take that real seriously. The fine is almost as high as a wreckless driving ticket or even a DWI.

Must be nice. I have not even had my trailer on the road yet!! :mad:

Did you at least get his insurance info?

I got my kit for $200. I supplied the tank. I had a 10 gallon tank at first that I got for $50 full of propane, but it was too small for towing and got the tank I have now (almost the size of a 100# bottle) for free.

You are certainly welcome, sir!

That still may be full according to the gauge. Give it some time and see what happens.

You need to unplug the alternator then start your truck and take it out on the road to see what happens.

It means maybe your fuel tank is full? How much fuel do you think it has in it?

Your 12v most definitely would have upgraded exhaust springs Yabba. The stock springs are only good to about 35 psi before they get pushed open by the back pressure. 60 pound springs are the normal upgrade.

Did the dealership dispose of the trade in? If they did, my question is how did they do that without the title?

Looks like you click on the Dealer tab and call them. I got mine from a friend so I didn't order it from them.

I *think* I got both sets I did at NAPA. They are a common item so they didn't have to be ordered in. They used the same bolts. If you need bolts they are only 1/2" long by what ever thread you have. It should be real easy to get the correct bolts. Just remember, all they do is go through the backing plate and into the cylinder.

The only reason I was thinking a relay is to allow greater control and to be able to have two inputs to power the fogs. The tipm is kind of a second thought.

You shouldn't need to buy new bolts. The existing ones screw right in. In fact, the outside of the wheel cylinder looks the same. I have changed them on one truck in my driveway with hand tool si under an hour. Simply unhook the brake line, unbolt the two bolts and pop the old ones out and reverse the procedure for the new ones. Leave the bleeder open until you get brake fluid coming out and tighten the bleeder and you are done! This is one of the best upgrades you can do. The truck will no longer nose dive when you are using lots of brakes, but it will just kind of squat down and stop better.