Wild and Free

Never been in one but have seen them within a couple miles and seen some weird things they can do as well. We have had straight line wind storm "Micro Bursts" do as much damage if not more as tornadoes also. We get more than our share of hail every year as well.

If I could down load from personal experience and my memory I would, I have seen them at several Dyno events, I have seen many videos of high hp VP's on youtube, you can search as easy as I can. I was at 530 hp stock vp44 and 560 Hrvp44 with little 150 BD sticks and an II silver 62, with 200+ sticks and a 66mm turbo easily puts most well over 600 hp. 650ish is usually the norm without injectables on stock SO VP44.

I would have to call BS on that one because what type of wood you are splitting will determine that one. I could see hard woods or certain pines that split clean and would stack tight like rounds but the wood we have on the plains tends to be very stringy and puffed up so to say it definately takes up a LOT more space once split than in the round, I double haul lots of cotton wood before and after split and it takes several more loads once split. Plus are they measuring with and without the bark on? Because when cottonwood for example is in the round with bark on it yet if cut fairly fresh takes up a ton of space and when split the bark comes off and takes up less space, Too many variables there in a study like that.

I always thought that wood was measured in a split state, or am I wrong here? I always look at a heaped 8 foot pickup bed of un split as to 2+ cords of split wood. I have never seen un split wood sold by the cord only split.

You are wrong........"New" engine oil may be amber ...................But There are just as many oil colors as there are in a crayon box most companies add dye to their oil. we have about a dozen different oils we use daily at work and they range from clear to blue.

Yes but if you add a bypass kit you can just simply tee into the pressure line or some bypass filter heads have ports on them as well.

Should have told them to crank the caster up to the max, anything under 4 is what causes them to wander, need to get them to 4 or higher even or what ever they can get out of the factory adjuster cams, usually can get up to 4.5 degrees. A good alignment tech should know that they always take the caster to the high side of spec at a minimum, If you look at sports cars and almost all import cars they have a LOT of caster compared to American vehicles. - - - Updated - - - I have had horrible luck with wheels in the past, tires that took a ton of weight to balance and still shook, after talking them into dismounting several and spin the rim alone they mark the heavy spot that way and then it makes life much easier in the long run, modern rims are horrible as far as not being balanced anymore from what I have seen. Too easy to blame the tire, it takes a good tire man to get them done right with little weight but it can be done, just doesn't work in the hectic fast paced world we have come to know where everyone wants everything done yesterday.

Never take a sample out of a filter and you can take a sample only if the drain plug area is cleaned very good before hand, the oil is hot and you dip from the full stream after is has run out for a few seconds to flush out any debris from the plug threads. Reread my last 2 posts sheesh doesn't anybody read anything any more?:banghead:

If you bought everything in the pictures under 50 bucks "I am not sure what the guns cost" , just the fittings and hose under 10 bucks bur pricing will vary from dealer to dealer I would suspect, and the easiest best spot for the fitting is right on top of the engine oil filter head as it states in the last sentence of my last post.

More often than not I wind up with broken wires in the hinge area from too many bending cycles. I have had several switches go bad on the drivers door on my second gens but never had an issue on my 05 yet..............Damn now tomorrow I will drive it and my window will quit during a rain storm.:banghead:

Just remember one thing with any type of bypass filters and extended run oil changes guys, the finer you filter the oil via any type of bypass filter the more you are also filtering out the beneficial additives of the oil and this is where frequent oil sampling is crucial, every 5K is recommended. You also need to change out the full flow and bypass filters and keep adding fresh oil at set intervals also to keep additive levels up.Any kind of centrifugal spinner filter set up is awesome and really helps get the super fine soot and other wee beasties out of the oil without filtering out the good stuff like a bypass filter does. There are engine manufacturers that use them even without a full flow filter they do so good at keeping the oil clean but a lot use them with a filter. Belarus tractors for one don't have a filter, only a spinner, MTU Detroit 4 thousand series uses a spinner with a filter as does Cummins on most of the High HP engines like the Q series.

Pics of an o-ring boss and pipe thread sample port are in the pics above and yes all sample tubing is universal. Any Cat dealer will have this all in stock. Take the gun out of the second picture and you have all you would need, pictured are one of each o-ring boss and pipe thread, first pic shows how the 2 mate, with the engine running you have one end of the hose in the bottle and you push the sample fitting tool onto the sample port and engine oil pressure fills the bottle with fresh hot oil in about 2-3 seconds. There is also another type of sample tool similar to the one below that the hose attaches to only it is chrome and a 90 degree, I will get a pic of one from work next week. You can put the sample port right into a spare port right on top of the oil filter head.

The last couple of pics remind me of a Big old growth cotton wood a friend and me tried to cut down with my 20" 036 Pro, took out a huge notch as far as my 20" and I were comfy with and then walked around the tree and made a complete circle 20" deep around the tree and then my buddy pushed it over with his backhoe and broke the last 12-18" of the core off to get it to fall away from a busy highway.We need a chainsaw smiley or a stuffed screaming beaver!

In my opinion getting rid of the accordion air turbulence creation hose prior to it will help just as much if not more.

Welcome to the club Mick!

I tried the TAG on my 02" Which I believe serves the same purpose as the vanes in the factory intake tube if we are talking about the same thing" and saw zero benefit for it even tried it with 2 different turbos stock and BD super B, I have had the PSM cool hose on for almost 100K miles and it works excellent and still looks like the day I installed it considering my driving conditions that is pretty good. Years ago I read many articles and argument on this and the vast majority came to the same conclusion of its such a minor detail it doesn't make any difference performance wise.

I wasn't going to name anyone personally lol ? I would have thought this thread would have gotten more attention, 24 hours and only 7 members have viewed it? - - - Updated - - - Personally I would go to a Cat dealer and get a sample port and install it on your engine and then get the little brass sample tool from them, a lot cheaper and easier to use than the gun even, Cat also carries the hose in bulk as well. I have not used my sample gun in a few years, I always use the little brass sample tool. Cat even just released a new sample kit, It consists of a bottle cap with a hole in the center and about a foot of hose to use with what I am talking about, The mechanics like using that more so than anything now when pulling samples on equipment.

War Eagle sent me a very insightful PM with info he got from you among other sources. When I find out more from the guy I am dealing with a set of used ones I will get in contact with you for a one on one. I am waiting to see if he has the part # of the ones he put in to see if they were truly unused brand new or Bosch remans branded as new from them. - - - Updated - - - Looks like I am going to pass on the new used remans, guy wrote back and they are built in 04 and do not have a new part #, part # on the 2 he looked at start with R 0431. - - - Updated - - - Got a reply back from Rip on the BBI injectors and they are out of the question now too, just way way way to much money. "Hi Bill, the BBi injectors are the most impressive I've ever had any experience with. We've yet to have a customer that wasn't tickled pink with the achieved results. Stg. 1's are 3990$ which includes lower 48 ground shipping. They are BRAND new, with NO cores required. They are in stock & typically ship within 24 hrs., excluding week ends. If you have any other questions, please feel free to ask. Thank you for your interest, Rip" Probably wait for a lull and pull mine out and send thm in for an upgrade, time to contact DAP.

This is what I have. http://psmdiesel.com/air_04.5.php And this, http://psmdiesel.com/cool_hose_dpp_3rd.php

An exhaust leak would not affect coasting unless the exhaust was dragging on the ground lol. Since you have a Mega cab you will definatly want the longer resonator for sure, Even with a long resonator you still get a throaty exhaust sound just like a free flowing muffler like a magnaflow but it will definitely help eliminate the drone you may encounter on that big cab. Wix filter is good the one to use is the one with a 4 inch thick media versus the factory 2 inch thick media. AH64ID has the part # in a few of his posts.

You need to try a Grasshopper they are about as good as they get. I have a Dixon and it sucks big time on side hills.

CIA will give no gain unless you are getting over 450-500 HP, I don't know what cab you have but the bigger the cab the more prone to drone it is with an open exhaust which the resonator helps with, mufflers quiet the exhaust tone but you still get in cab drone. As far as engine braking there are different types, there is an inline exhaust brake that does just that, the flap closes the exhaust flow from the engine and creates a brake via back pressure, then there is an internal engine brake that holds the exhaust valves open "Jakes or Jacobs brakes" which is a brand name like semis have that turn the engine into a compressor that causes braking internally too. On a factory exhaust you will not get enough back pressure to cause a braking effect as I think you are getting at.

Take any notion of needed back pressure and force it out of your head and make sure whoever tells you this knows they are full of BS as well. You are dealing with an engine that wants zero back pressure. The only thing that needs an exhaust system to control exhaust pressure pulses are 2 strokes period. OK so on to you question, what kind of sound do you want, a resonator would be the most free flowing, there are short ones and long ones they both kill in cab drone but the short one will give a nice throaty sound and the long one will actually give a bit of noise suppression like a muffler. On the 3rd gens the factory air box with the extra deep pleated filter is the best bang for the buck, no need for an after market CAI system unless you are after bigger HP and have fueling mods. You won't see much in the way of MPG gains though unless you get a Smarty and or different injectors, that is controlled by your foot.

This should help answer a lot of questions on how to pull an oil sample the clean and correct way. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/7847-Oil-Sample-tooling