Wild and Free

For a hundred bucks I would still say you are a thief! :moon:I have never been that lucky, with a bit of elbow greae that would be an awesome boat.:thumbup2:Heck I see it is even a galvanized trailer, That alone would resell for good money, probably around 750++.

Seems too light for your needs plus it seems pretty high priced being its used.

I love river jet boat racing or any other power boat racing too. Would love to see one in person some day, also would like to see the big off shore racers too.

The beauty of boat wiring and furniture especially the older ones is that it all fairly generic and kept simple. you can find the marine furniture supplier of your choice like Overtons or any other store of choice, there are many many to choose from. Wiring is very simple.I typed in Baretta marine in the Bing browser and came up with tons of info the first time. They must have been popular in the 80's as that is what mostly came up.

You got it, I guess I could have expanded on My "No" lol.. I never torque them, I always tighten the nut down with an impact. After doing it for 20+ years it becomes a "Feel" thing and knowing your tools power. But if you are a weekend warrior then torqueing it is fine but it is hard to hold the pinion and keep things from turning while applying torque by hand.

No, they probably rolled the lip of the old seal in or the lip spring came off when they swapped it, I alway replace the seals if I pull a yoke because more often than not the seal will leak especially if you put a different yoke into a different seal that will always leak from my experience.

I have literally rebuild hundreds of Danas and only tried the case spreader 1 time just to try it and threw it back in the tool heap at the truck shop, never saw the benefit of using a spreader on Danas, neither did the full time gear builders.

Rotors are cheap, just buy new ones and be done with it. faster too. Having worked at a truck shop we found over and again that grinding is better than cutting be it flywheels or rotors.

Never had on leak but had one crack once, I broke it while working in the area and had to replace the valve. It was a Cummins part only from fleetgaurd, I had to order it through a local Cummins certified truck shop locally, Dodge couldn't get it seperately, would have had to buy the whole fuel canister from Dodge.

So now figure in real world items into all of this info and how it changes everything.Elevation, barometric pressure, humidity, ambient temps, different fuel types brands and quality of each. ect ect ect ect.:smart:Change just one and everything you are trying to figure out changes a lot.

We passed the point of a "little" about 6 am:stuned:, just came in from outside and I am thinking we are at around 18+ inches so far and it is super wet and sticky and heavy, dang stuff sticks to the shovel every scoop is miserable to shake off the shovel. Had to shovel away from the door ways about 4 times today just to be able to open the doors to get out. Let it get to high and we would have been crawling out the windows as heavy as it is. You ever deliver or pick up boats from North Dakota? With Lake Sakakawea we have many yachts up there being it is the 3rd largest man made lake in north America behind Mead and Powell, over 200 miles long and averages 5 miles wide and 150 feet deep through the middle half. A good friend of mine has a 28' Shockwave cuddy cabin with a 650hp V10 chrysler engine, he has seen 89 mph tops so far.

LOL!!!! The interstate I-94 is closed from the Montana Border to the Minnesota Border as I type. We are in the middle of a spring Blizzard, since about 2 am last night we now have about 12++ inches of wet heavy snow and it looks to be going on well into the night, looking to be close to 2 feet in 24 hours in some areas around me. BTW it is locked away safely inside a friends shop in Mandan ND about 300 feet from the Missouri river.

I am strictly talking diesel performance here not gasser guys.

Mine is an ESP performance package, Elipticle center tube, not you average tritune. Mine has a 150 4 stroke Yamaha on it and runs 38 mph and carves corners like a v-hull boat but the boat is rated for a 250 HP engine which will make my boat run upper 40's, I want to up to a 200 Yamaha SHO which guys who are running my exact same boat see 42-43 mph. It has a center tube in floor storage area and I ordered a 60 gallon fuel Cell in the rear of the center tube as well got the snap out carpet option with full vinyl floor for easy cleaning. Has a ski pylon option as well on my rig. I had a 2007 22 foot triple tube with lifting strakes on both sides of all 3 tubes with the same engine I have on this one and it was on full plane at about 8 mph with about 10 people and full gear. The last boat would run 42 mph but didnt corner at all it was a beautiful ride and flat out hauled in a straight line but the ESP is way heavier but handles like a sports car in comparison. http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKgn23JmEoM http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DJa-8_B3SY Bennington really stepped up the game of pontooning the last couple of years. They released a sport tower model a couple years ago and it is now main stream as others are copying it now. http://envision3books.com/Bennington/#/18-19/

Cajflynn wanted to see pics of my summer time pride and joy, I spend every second I can get on it during our 4 months of great boating weather! Here is a thread with pics of my ride on the pontoon forum I hit on occasion. http://www.pontoonforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=6664 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=4904&d=1358784884

Yep what Caj said is true^^^^^^^^^^^ Very low stall converters are more for those that doesn't tow or pull anything, drag racers tend to like a tight converter where as power pullers tend to like a looser converter that allows for more spool up rpms before full stall is reached. For the average guy one in the middle is the best choice usually 89% efficient is what the big companies tend to call them 91% is tight and under 89 is on the looser side.

Low rpm stall is a very efficient or tight converter,Higher stall rpm converters are looser and less efficient, the stock converters are very very loose and inefficient and stacked with low lube and clutch application pressure from the stock VB,s make for sluggish performance and premature lockup clutch failures. There are no down sides to the good after market VB's but taking a VB and installing a cheap shift kit will give you a sour experience, bad shift quality and still low lube pressure ect. There are a lot of modifications to the valving and porting of the good VBs that a drop in shift kit does not address, all they do is change shift pressures and points via different springs ect.

I think the 2500/3500 Mega cabs only have 5 foot boxes also don't they? - - - Updated - - - Lol, you defiinately would not be impressed with the B&W then, The Gooseneck runs in the 400-500 range and the Companion 5er plate that works with it is over $800. Having a box that is not cluttered ..........PRICELESS.

I have always assumed the slider hitches are designed for the 5 foot boxes, if you have a 6.5 foot or longer you don't need a slider, at least this is what I have seen them marketed for mainly.

Now you got it! The u-bolts pull them down a slight bit but not enough to make a preloaded condition you are worried about.

There is no tension on the axle saddle under the axle at the u-bolt saddles that you need to worry about, you can remove the u-bolt nuts as it sits on the ground but to be safe not a bad idea to take some of the weight off the springs and then go at it. You don't need to remove the u-bolts just remove the lower nuts and install the plate for the traction bars right under the lower axle saddle and retorque the nuts.

We pay nothing for windshields with our policy too, but it is nice to get some money back on occasion for making a couple of calls and saving others money. Don't get too many bullseyes that run but they get so sandblasted that you can't see through them very well after about 2 years.

My insurance company pays me back when I replace windshields. I get quotes from companies for what they charge the insurance companies and then buy windshields at a fraction of the price and have a friend who works at a body shop install it all done for about half of what the main body or glass shops charge insurance companies. Takes a bit of leg work but it save me on insurance costs for doing about 1 windshied a year and going the extra mile to do so the insurance co always splits the savings difference and pays me half.

Here in ND all trailers being pulled behind a pickup are a flat $20 a year liscence fee. Regaurdless if it is an RV, stock trailer or car/utility trailers 14' and over. Things like boat trailers that transport a dedicated load like a boat which is already liscensed doesn't need to be liscensed here or small utility trailers pickup box trailers ect, they do not enforce unliscensed trailers for the average Joe that I have ever seen or heard of. - - - Updated - - - Hey nothing personal but there are just a bit of diffferences between what you pull and what the "Average" guy sees. but your input is always nice to hear as it opens eyes for some who never get to see loads like you pull and would not know what it is like to do so. Last post wasn't intended to be negative as it was poking fun.